cock head

Well, I am building a b18b, sleeves, rods, and pistons (9.5 cr). I really want to go with a gsr block but have two ls, and I thought if i balance good enough I could rev it to 8000. First I want to move the oil squiters from a gsr to ls, how hard is that, do i have to drill holes for that, and do I have to switch the oil pump? I am going to have a ported ls head on it, with lighter springs, valves, and rockers. ( not a big fan of v-tech, sorry). Crv tranny and rear wheel drive. Any comments a concernes , let me know thanks. On the rwd drive part I did a lot of research on it , so dont insult me on it but you can ask me questions, I assure you I will have a rwd next spring.

Flamenco-T

hmm, good question, I am not sure how the oil passage flow of an LS is any different of the GS-R, I am almost sure that they are the same, hence if the oil passage route is the same, I don't see how you will not be able to add oil squirters...

the only way to prove this I guess is to cut both block open to see how the oil passage is.

I'd get a VTEC oil pump though for sure, non vtec oil pump I believe pumps about 60ish quarts per minute, versus VTEC is 74ish quarts...
they design non VTEC flows a lil less is possibly is because the lack of squirters in the first place and it doesn;t require more oil circulation in the first place
stan

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

i have heard the oil passeges are different.

but I would like to hear more about this RWD stuff. hows this gonna work?

cock head

Well its pretty easy actually, crv tranny to get a driveshaft to the back, take a axle turn it up side down because acura spins counter clock wise, and make a custom drive shaft, axle is mounted is a very custom way, will post pics, and vid, in a month or two. Need different gas tank, so on a so forth. This is not very detailed, cause i dont want every one to have a rwd, but right now i am trying to lighten the front end and get some weight in the back.

TurboInteg95

You Crazy!!!!!

dustin

And everyone laughed at me when I put the delorean doors on my integra

riceboy

The oil passages are slightly different, on the VTEC blocks the oil passage is not visible from the inside of the crank case, the oil squirters are mounted flush against the passage, on the ls blocks, the oil passage is a slight (10 mm) convex into the crank case, not too much to overcome, just make sure you trust who is doing the work cause they will have to mount them real well to angle the squirter at the bottom of the piston while making sure that the rod does not hit the squirter and while mounting it flush with no oil leaks.

Have that oil passage pressure tested once the machine work is through if ya can, I would for re-assurance.

rjardy

what are you going to use for a rear end?


Rob

MiraiZ

what?

Phoenix GSR

what are you going to do about the front axle holes in the trany? or do you mean AWD? remmeber the crv only turns the front wheels untill they slip, then the rear wheels kick in because of the viscous coupling.. if you try to convert to rwd only even if you plug the axle holes whenever you press on the gas there will be a lag before the rear wheels get power... if you do awd the only prob I see is possibly overpowering the tranny/diff/transfer case suff.. nobody really knows how strong it is... good luck

cock head

what are you going to use for a rear end?
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was using one out of a lexus ls 400, but someone messed it up.
so now i am looking for another, rear end with abs disk brakes, and just hte right amount of length.


what are you going to do about the front axle holes in the trany? or do you mean AWD? remmeber the crv only turns the front wheels untill they slip, then the rear wheels kick in because of the viscous coupling.. if you try to convert to rwd only even if you plug the axle holes whenever you press on the gas there will be a lag before the rear wheels get power... if you do awd the only prob I see is possibly overpowering the tranny/diff/transfer case suff.. nobody really knows how strong it is... good luck


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The way that tranny is built their should be no lag to very little lag, I am goign to take the front axles out, I expected that problem, another thing I was thinking about was some how welding the viscous coupling. some crv's are all time w4d, i think. The reason i dont 4wd drive is because, I dont have the same gear ratios in the front and back, and I this rwd is a little bit more fun to drive. I am expecting their to be a couple of problems, but i will figure all of them out.

Phoenix GSR

I actually have a crv "real time AWD" for my 2nd car/daily driver type car... all crv awd systems are "real time" and they are all fwd till the rear slips... I can feel the lag on mine when the rear kicks in, so it would be too much for me...

I like your idea of having it welded up or something if possible (I dont exactly know how it works, I thought it was a fluid conection)... I would explore that option


[Modified by Phoenix GSR, 10:39 AM 10/14/2002]

cock head

Phoenix GSR, is it the tranny or the rear end that kicks in, I am trying to find info on this but can't, any help would be appereated. One way to check would be to statr it put it in drive dont hit the gas at all so its just moving and have someone see if the drive shaft is spinning, or not thanks.


[Modified by therumblingteg, 9:32 PM 10/14/2002]

falcongsr

you will want to look into ways to make whatever engages the rear wheels to be locked on all the time.

i dont think the crv rear end was designed to handle accelerating the entire mass of the vehicle from a dead stop, i think thats too much for it...only for light duty to push you past a patch of ice on the road or get out of a mud patch. honda had a civic wagon in the 80s with a similar AWD setup and it was ****. reliability problems just from normal driving.

good ideas though.

dbman96

You'll definitely have to replace the viscous coupling with something "locked" to engage the rear driveshaft - if you count on the transfer case "detecting" the front wheel slip, you're only going to get about 30-40% torque to the rear wheels and you'll annihilate the transmission in very short order. Think about trying to drive a car with an LSD with one axle removed (I've done this accidentally) - the power DOES get to the one engaged wheel but only about half of what you should be getting, and it feels like you're driving on a permanently 75% slipping clutch.

Cool project, do your homework, and KEEP US UPDATED!

bruthaboost

Oil squirters are no prob. You'll have to drill and tap into the oil gallery on the block for the squirters. You'll also need to fab up some spacers to move the squirters away from the crank else the crank will smash into the squirters. With your spacers be sure to have little dowel holes to prevent the squiters from rotating around.
hth

speedworks

crv drivelines only hold about 200 horsepower before they start breaking things

Brian_92GSR

Actually, a true gear based LSD won't work if one of the axles comes out. It requires some kind of load (such as an axle and tire spinning on ice) before it will transfer the power over to the wheel with grip, otherwise it will just spin the side with the missing axle. This is at least true with the Quaife, as I did have an axle pop out on me, fortuantely just uphill from my house.

What kind of differential were you referring to?

cock head

First of all thank all you guys for helping and keep it up, second only thing i am going to use from the crv is the tranny, custom drive line to the rear end, a rear (another one found its perfect) so i am hoping the tranny holds up, I am thinking take the tranny apart, and weld the shut if possible, i know their trannys are pretty tuff, dont know about the drive line not planning on using it. BUT can any one tell me anything about this tranny and how they work, and could the vicious coupling be welded on or is it hydrolic related?

Any one know of any sites i can go to?


[Modified by therumblingteg, 5:51 PM 10/15/2002]

BudaKai

Instead of welding it why not just make dummy halfshafts? They would start spinning and the power would atomatically transfer. They would just have to be inserts with a bearing coupling to a mount bracket attached to the shell of the tranny.

MIKES

Very interesting project your doing with the RWD. I would like know how well it works for ya when you got it done. As for the oil squirters, if you are using a forged piston then you don't need them. They were put in the vtec blocks to cool down the cast pistons at high rpm. If you go forged thats should be good enough.

cock head

Instead of welding it why not just make dummy halfshafts? They would start spinning and the power would atomatically transfer. They would just have to be inserts with a bearing coupling to a mount bracket attached to the shell of the tranny.
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Thats a good idea but it takes a couple of seconds for it to kick in.

Brian_92GSR

The problem is there will always be a lag from it sensing the front spinning before sending power to the rear.

BudaKai

Even if you weld the gears they'll have some lag there. Wouldn't it be better if you had lag than a fried tranny. I personally get worried when someone welds stuff in there unless you cryo treat it. Welding actually weakens the metals integrity. Those gear are tempered to take the abuse of a 3000lb CRV filled to capacity. Welding is nice if you can afford spares. Think about those traction issues on a 2200lb civic with RWD and no weight in back. I would like that lag. Make it up in the top-end where the Hondas thrive.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

just floor it on the 2nd yellow light instead of the 3rd haha.