Some Pictures of my dads SFWD car's engine build with extra's (56k eh)
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Some Pictures of my dads SFWD car's engine build with extra's (56k eh)
So i forgot to take pictures as I assembled the motor but here is the specs
GSR block
GE Sleeves 84mm bore
Endyne Roller Waves 10:1 compression (flat tops)
Type R crank
Eagle 900HP rods (ballanced)
Endyne Ported GSR head
GSR cams
GE cam gears
Greddy timing belt
Omni Springs & retainers
Type R valves
Ported Edlebrock victor x IM
Mustang 75mm TB
Precision 1000cc injectors
GE fuel rail
Street Fluidampener
Endyne Breather Kit
Twin disc Clutch
Stage 3 DSS axles with 36mm hubs
Type R front break conversion 11.2inch rotors R calipers
Hawk HP pads
Apexi Power FC
MSD 6AL
-8 feed line from Walboro 255 wired to 14v alternator output
Stock return
Moroso Street 5.5qt oil pan (steel)
GT35R (might go bigger)
Full-Race Back door style intercooler (good for 750 whp)
Tial 50mm wastegate
Top mount manifold
Tial 44mm Vband Wastegate
Waiting on the Top Mount manifold
there is alot more but i'm getting tired of typing so here is the pics
Full-Race Backdoor style intercooler
Here you can see where the BOV goes
Twin Disc Clutch
DSS stage 3 axle with 36mm hub
The engine as it sits, rebuilding the dizzy and waiting on the manifold
Still need to put the driver side mount on.. Need the bolts tho
You can see how the endyne breather kit works.. Also all STEEL fittings on the bask so nothing will break off.
Huge TB
Ported IM
Turbo With some nigs leg
Here is the differance between the Type R size brakes and stock DX
Type R (15inch wheels)
VS stock DX
This kit can be had through intec racing WITH Hawk HP pads for under 600...
Paint on the car still looks mint (it just rained, car hasnt been washed since last september)
Hope you all like it, my dad says he wants to see everyone out there this year
-Josh
GSR block
GE Sleeves 84mm bore
Endyne Roller Waves 10:1 compression (flat tops)
Type R crank
Eagle 900HP rods (ballanced)
Endyne Ported GSR head
GSR cams
GE cam gears
Greddy timing belt
Omni Springs & retainers
Type R valves
Ported Edlebrock victor x IM
Mustang 75mm TB
Precision 1000cc injectors
GE fuel rail
Street Fluidampener
Endyne Breather Kit
Twin disc Clutch
Stage 3 DSS axles with 36mm hubs
Type R front break conversion 11.2inch rotors R calipers
Hawk HP pads
Apexi Power FC
MSD 6AL
-8 feed line from Walboro 255 wired to 14v alternator output
Stock return
Moroso Street 5.5qt oil pan (steel)
GT35R (might go bigger)
Full-Race Back door style intercooler (good for 750 whp)
Tial 50mm wastegate
Top mount manifold
Tial 44mm Vband Wastegate
Waiting on the Top Mount manifold
there is alot more but i'm getting tired of typing so here is the pics
Full-Race Backdoor style intercooler
Here you can see where the BOV goes
Twin Disc Clutch
DSS stage 3 axle with 36mm hub
The engine as it sits, rebuilding the dizzy and waiting on the manifold
Still need to put the driver side mount on.. Need the bolts tho
You can see how the endyne breather kit works.. Also all STEEL fittings on the bask so nothing will break off.
Huge TB
Ported IM
Turbo With some nigs leg
Here is the differance between the Type R size brakes and stock DX
Type R (15inch wheels)
VS stock DX
This kit can be had through intec racing WITH Hawk HP pads for under 600...
Paint on the car still looks mint (it just rained, car hasnt been washed since last september)
Hope you all like it, my dad says he wants to see everyone out there this year
-Josh
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Re: (AbitAvenger)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BADASS!
I wish my dad built sfwd cars </TD></TR></TABLE>
hell yea!!
I wish my dad built sfwd cars </TD></TR></TABLE>
hell yea!!
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Re: (..Lloyd Braun..)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..Lloyd Braun.. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks really good, are you going to port match the IM to the TB? or is there not enough meat left on there to do so?
look at the puppy</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol it is port matched, and there was not much left at all. the surfaces are perfectly smooth with eachother, the picture just does not look like it.
look at the puppy</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol it is port matched, and there was not much left at all. the surfaces are perfectly smooth with eachother, the picture just does not look like it.
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Re: (Blind Fashion)
Looks awesome.
Only flaw I was concerned about is the huge oil sender haning off the back of the block. i thin it would be better to run a stainless steel line from there to the firewall where you could then use "T" fittings and connect the oil press sender, OEM idiot light and turbo oil feed. This is how i run mine!!
That sender is a lot of weight that goint to be vibrating around, only held in by some thin aluminum threads!!
Only flaw I was concerned about is the huge oil sender haning off the back of the block. i thin it would be better to run a stainless steel line from there to the firewall where you could then use "T" fittings and connect the oil press sender, OEM idiot light and turbo oil feed. This is how i run mine!!
That sender is a lot of weight that goint to be vibrating around, only held in by some thin aluminum threads!!
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Re: (mike1114)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks awesome.
Only flaw I was concerned about is the huge oil sender haning off the back of the block. i thin it would be better to run a stainless steel line from there to the firewall where you could then use "T" fittings and connect the oil press sender, OEM idiot light and turbo oil feed. This is how i run mine!!
That sender is a lot of weight that goint to be vibrating around, only held in by some thin aluminum threads!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have run alot like this, its all steel fitting so thats not going to break and the threads go a half inch into the block so i'm pretty sure it will be ok thanks for the concern tho
Only flaw I was concerned about is the huge oil sender haning off the back of the block. i thin it would be better to run a stainless steel line from there to the firewall where you could then use "T" fittings and connect the oil press sender, OEM idiot light and turbo oil feed. This is how i run mine!!
That sender is a lot of weight that goint to be vibrating around, only held in by some thin aluminum threads!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have run alot like this, its all steel fitting so thats not going to break and the threads go a half inch into the block so i'm pretty sure it will be ok thanks for the concern tho
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Re: (SOHCD16y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were me I really wouldnt want to risk that sender cracking off, especially since it is so easy to run a nylon or SS line to the firewall. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool again, I have done this on more then 5 cars that have hit low 11's high 10's and have had no problems. And i have done it on customers cars alot. Never have I had a problem, When I see your sick setup and you do it the other way I'm not going to go into your thread and say **** just because your on some band wagon that its going to break off.
Cool again, I have done this on more then 5 cars that have hit low 11's high 10's and have had no problems. And i have done it on customers cars alot. Never have I had a problem, When I see your sick setup and you do it the other way I'm not going to go into your thread and say **** just because your on some band wagon that its going to break off.
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Re: (jarel)
calm down buddy. We were just providing some information. We didnt say it will break, just there is a chance, and personally I like to eliminate stupid chances like that when I can.
So you know, I drive a daily driven 2.0L EG hatch with almost 400whp. And I ran a line from the block to the firewall.
So you know, I drive a daily driven 2.0L EG hatch with almost 400whp. And I ran a line from the block to the firewall.
#24
Re: (methos713)
setup looks awesome to your pops
btw, close friend of mine lost his engine last year to a broken "T" coming out of the block. It was steel too. It would cost maybe $15 to run a braided line and zip tie everything to the firewall. For as much as you have invested in the setup it would be silly to not do it.
btw, close friend of mine lost his engine last year to a broken "T" coming out of the block. It was steel too. It would cost maybe $15 to run a braided line and zip tie everything to the firewall. For as much as you have invested in the setup it would be silly to not do it.