SOLID CEL AGAIN
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SOLID CEL AGAIN
Ok this is weird . . . . car had a solid CEL before and it was because of the 1k resistor being in the wrong spot. Car has been running perfect the past several days. Just got my wideband in so we were gona start tuning. My friend brought his laptop, I drove down the street stopped to burn a chip since it was running to rich, moment he burned the chip and put it in SOLID CEL. We tried burning the map that I had the car running on SOLID CEL. I tried going upstairs to the computer I used to burn the chip with the first time SOLID CEL. The car was just running, we didn't bump into anything, we checked over some stuff everything looks good. WHat could cause the ECU to crap out like that after just burning a chip?
Could The Chip Be Bad?
it confirms that it burns the chip perfectly fine, no errors or anything like that. Just can't figure out why the SOLID CEL all of a sudden.
Modified by Vtec92Civic at 10:32 AM 3/29/2005
Could The Chip Be Bad?
it confirms that it burns the chip perfectly fine, no errors or anything like that. Just can't figure out why the SOLID CEL all of a sudden.
Modified by Vtec92Civic at 10:32 AM 3/29/2005
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From: Somewhere in California
Re: SOLID CEL AGAIN (Vtec92Civic)
You're getting a solid CEL again?
If it's not giving you a code when you jump it then you need to go over how you burn your chips.
-What engine, OBD conversion harness, injectors and type and OBD ECU are you using?
-What program are you using (Uberdata, Crome?)
-What burner are you using
-What kind of chips are you using?
-What burning program are you using? (Flash-n-Burn, TunerPro?)
-What are your laptop or PC specs
-Who did the sodlering/socketing of your ECU?
-Have you ever been able to burn a chip without getting a solid CEL?
-Has the ECU that is giving you this solid CEL ever been used with a chip that has not given you a solid CEL?
If the car has no mechanical problems then a solid CEL indicates a problem with the soldering connections in the ECU. If you have checked the ECU soldering or redone them and it still gives you a solid CEL then maybe there is something wrong with your burning process or you dont have the correct options selected in your program.
If it's not giving you a code when you jump it then you need to go over how you burn your chips.
-What engine, OBD conversion harness, injectors and type and OBD ECU are you using?
-What program are you using (Uberdata, Crome?)
-What burner are you using
-What kind of chips are you using?
-What burning program are you using? (Flash-n-Burn, TunerPro?)
-What are your laptop or PC specs
-Who did the sodlering/socketing of your ECU?
-Have you ever been able to burn a chip without getting a solid CEL?
-Has the ECU that is giving you this solid CEL ever been used with a chip that has not given you a solid CEL?
If the car has no mechanical problems then a solid CEL indicates a problem with the soldering connections in the ECU. If you have checked the ECU soldering or redone them and it still gives you a solid CEL then maybe there is something wrong with your burning process or you dont have the correct options selected in your program.
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From: Hawaii
Re: SOLID CEL AGAIN (BlueShadow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're getting a solid CEL again?
If it's not giving you a code when you jump it then you need to go over how you burn your chips.
-What engine, OBD conversion harness, injectors and type and OBD ECU are you using?
D16Z6, OBD 1 CAR, DSM 450CC INJECTORS, P28 ECU
-What program are you using (Uberdata, Crome?)
UBERDATA
-What burner are you using
MOATES BURNER
-What kind of chips are you using?
ATMEL 29C256
-What burning program are you using? (Flash-n-Burn, TunerPro?)
FLASH-N-BURN
-What are your laptop or PC specs
NOT SURE ON THE LAPTOP SPECS FAIRLY NEW LAPTOP
-Who did the sodlering/socketing of your ECU?
A FRIEND DID THE ECU, BUT HE DID THE 1K RESISTOR WRONG WE FOUND OUT, SO I HAD ANOTHER FRIEND RE-DO IT AND THE ECU WORKED FINE.
-Have you ever been able to burn a chip without getting a solid CEL?
I'VE BEEN BURNING CHIPS FROM MY PC FOR THE PAST SEVERAL DAYS PERFECTLY FINE, CAR HAS DRIVEN GREA JUST RAN REALLY LEAN WHICH IS WHY WE GRABBED THE LAPTOP FOR EASIER AND QUICKER ACCESS TO CHANGE THE MAPS AND BURN CHIPS IN THE CAR WHILE TUNING.
-Has the ECU that is giving you this solid CEL ever been used with a chip that has not given you a solid CEL?
YES THE ECU HAS BEEN USED THE PAST SEVERAL DAYS JUST FINE, IT WAS ONLY YESTERDAY THAT WE BURNT THE CHIP VIA HIS LAPTOP AND FROM THEN ON IT JUST STOPPED WORKING. WE WERE LEFT PUZZLED AS CAN BE ON THAT ONE. CAR WAS DRIVING ONE MINUTE, WE PULLED OVER AND LEANED OUT THE MAP REALLY FAST, BURNT THE CHIP, AND FROM THEN ON IT HAD A SOLID CEL.
If the car has no mechanical problems then a solid CEL indicates a problem with the soldering connections in the ECU. If you have checked the ECU soldering or redone them and it still gives you a solid CEL then maybe there is something wrong with your burning process or you dont have the correct options selected in your program.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The one thing we did different when burning the chip was I selected disable o2 heater or what not since I didn't have the option to dissable closed loop or open loop. After that it messed up even after we it back to normal. I have never experienced trouble burning chips before.
I do not have a ZIF Socket, should I get one? I just been plugging the chips into the 28 pin DIP socket.
Hope someone can help me out. Should I try reseting the ECU or how would I go about that?
If it's not giving you a code when you jump it then you need to go over how you burn your chips.
-What engine, OBD conversion harness, injectors and type and OBD ECU are you using?
D16Z6, OBD 1 CAR, DSM 450CC INJECTORS, P28 ECU
-What program are you using (Uberdata, Crome?)
UBERDATA
-What burner are you using
MOATES BURNER
-What kind of chips are you using?
ATMEL 29C256
-What burning program are you using? (Flash-n-Burn, TunerPro?)
FLASH-N-BURN
-What are your laptop or PC specs
NOT SURE ON THE LAPTOP SPECS FAIRLY NEW LAPTOP
-Who did the sodlering/socketing of your ECU?
A FRIEND DID THE ECU, BUT HE DID THE 1K RESISTOR WRONG WE FOUND OUT, SO I HAD ANOTHER FRIEND RE-DO IT AND THE ECU WORKED FINE.
-Have you ever been able to burn a chip without getting a solid CEL?
I'VE BEEN BURNING CHIPS FROM MY PC FOR THE PAST SEVERAL DAYS PERFECTLY FINE, CAR HAS DRIVEN GREA JUST RAN REALLY LEAN WHICH IS WHY WE GRABBED THE LAPTOP FOR EASIER AND QUICKER ACCESS TO CHANGE THE MAPS AND BURN CHIPS IN THE CAR WHILE TUNING.
-Has the ECU that is giving you this solid CEL ever been used with a chip that has not given you a solid CEL?
YES THE ECU HAS BEEN USED THE PAST SEVERAL DAYS JUST FINE, IT WAS ONLY YESTERDAY THAT WE BURNT THE CHIP VIA HIS LAPTOP AND FROM THEN ON IT JUST STOPPED WORKING. WE WERE LEFT PUZZLED AS CAN BE ON THAT ONE. CAR WAS DRIVING ONE MINUTE, WE PULLED OVER AND LEANED OUT THE MAP REALLY FAST, BURNT THE CHIP, AND FROM THEN ON IT HAD A SOLID CEL.
If the car has no mechanical problems then a solid CEL indicates a problem with the soldering connections in the ECU. If you have checked the ECU soldering or redone them and it still gives you a solid CEL then maybe there is something wrong with your burning process or you dont have the correct options selected in your program.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The one thing we did different when burning the chip was I selected disable o2 heater or what not since I didn't have the option to dissable closed loop or open loop. After that it messed up even after we it back to normal. I have never experienced trouble burning chips before.
I do not have a ZIF Socket, should I get one? I just been plugging the chips into the 28 pin DIP socket.
Hope someone can help me out. Should I try reseting the ECU or how would I go about that?
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Posts: 4,408
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From: Somewhere in California
Re: SOLID CEL AGAIN (B18Flip)
Vtec92Civic,
Are you running a resistor box or resistors with the DSM 450's? if so, and you are running a resistor box have you checked it for proper resistance?
My setup is very similar except for the actual engine type, injectors and the laptop. Are you checking your burners COM ports when you plug it into the laptop? anytime I restart my laptop or unplug and plug my Burn1 and Ostrich I always check the COM ports. Make sure your COM ports are between 1-4 and check the Moates.net instructions on how to setup the Burn1 and how to use it. Even if you have the steps memorized I would suggest you read the instructions again. BURN1 INSTALL BURN1 USE
Also for the MISC tab what options are checked and unchecked? You should try fiddling with the MISC options to see what happens. Try disabling the knock sensor. Also how are you starting your .bins? are you opening up the stockGSR.bin then importing the P28.bin?
You might wanna check around on the uberforums and pgmfi.org to see what effect the incorrect 1K resistor install had.
You might wanna get a ZIF too. All the pulling and pushing of chips might have messed up your DIP sockets solder connections. You might wanna think about resoldering the DIP socket too see if you can fix a possible bad connection. Before you do that maybe you can check the ECU board and DIP pins for continuity? or before you resolder the DIP socket you can try cutting J1 so the ECU will run off the stock maps. Plug the ECU in to your car and put the ignition to ON but dont start it since you dont wanna flodd your motor with the 450's. With the stock P28 the CEL should come on and stay on for a few seconds then turn off. If the CEL comes on and stays on, your ECU might be bad.
But that's what I would do. First check your burning and .bin making procedures. If you still get a CEL after you are sure you are burning chips right, start checking out the ECU.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:46 PM 3/28/2005
Are you running a resistor box or resistors with the DSM 450's? if so, and you are running a resistor box have you checked it for proper resistance?
My setup is very similar except for the actual engine type, injectors and the laptop. Are you checking your burners COM ports when you plug it into the laptop? anytime I restart my laptop or unplug and plug my Burn1 and Ostrich I always check the COM ports. Make sure your COM ports are between 1-4 and check the Moates.net instructions on how to setup the Burn1 and how to use it. Even if you have the steps memorized I would suggest you read the instructions again. BURN1 INSTALL BURN1 USE
Also for the MISC tab what options are checked and unchecked? You should try fiddling with the MISC options to see what happens. Try disabling the knock sensor. Also how are you starting your .bins? are you opening up the stockGSR.bin then importing the P28.bin?
You might wanna check around on the uberforums and pgmfi.org to see what effect the incorrect 1K resistor install had.
You might wanna get a ZIF too. All the pulling and pushing of chips might have messed up your DIP sockets solder connections. You might wanna think about resoldering the DIP socket too see if you can fix a possible bad connection. Before you do that maybe you can check the ECU board and DIP pins for continuity? or before you resolder the DIP socket you can try cutting J1 so the ECU will run off the stock maps. Plug the ECU in to your car and put the ignition to ON but dont start it since you dont wanna flodd your motor with the 450's. With the stock P28 the CEL should come on and stay on for a few seconds then turn off. If the CEL comes on and stays on, your ECU might be bad.
But that's what I would do. First check your burning and .bin making procedures. If you still get a CEL after you are sure you are burning chips right, start checking out the ECU.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:46 PM 3/28/2005
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From: St. Paul, MN, USA
If you were running right b4 the latest burn. I would just check your burning process and making sure you are using the right settings for your car. Any small thing can really make the ECU mad.
Also go over the hardware of the ECU. Sometimes just bumping could knock a poor solder point off.
Also go over the hardware of the ECU. Sometimes just bumping could knock a poor solder point off.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Hawaii
Re: (Cray91)
I'll check into that tonight and see what I find out. I know my burning procedures are right because I been burning chips for the past week for my setup and they all worked, but for some reason it just stopped working right after we burnt the chip with the laptop. Hopefully I can get my car back on the road soon 
I need the car.
Anymore info let me know, i'll post back with what I find out.
I need the car.Anymore info let me know, i'll post back with what I find out.
Thread Starter
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From: Hawaii
Re: SOLID CEL AGAIN (BlueShadow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vtec92Civic,
Are you running a resistor box or resistors with the DSM 450's? if so, and you are running a resistor box have you checked it for proper resistance?
RESISTOR BOX HAS PROPER RESISTANCE BUT I CAN CHECK AGAIN
My setup is very similar except for the actual engine type, injectors and the laptop. Are you checking your burners COM ports when you plug it into the laptop? anytime I restart my laptop or unplug and plug my Burn1 and Ostrich I always check the COM ports. Make sure your COM ports are between 1-4 and check the Moates.net instructions on how to setup the Burn1 and how to use it. Even if you have the steps memorized I would suggest you read the instructions again. BURN1 INSTALL BURN1 USE
Also for the MISC tab what options are checked and unchecked? You should try fiddling with the MISC options to see what happens. Try disabling the knock sensor. Also how are you starting your .bins? are you opening up the stockGSR.bin then importing the P28.bin?
YEAH I OPEN THE GSR THEN IMPORT THE P28
You might wanna check around on the uberforums and pgmfi.org to see what effect the incorrect 1K resistor install had.
You might wanna get a ZIF too. All the pulling and pushing of chips might have messed up your DIP sockets solder connections. You might wanna think about resoldering the DIP socket too see if you can fix a possible bad connection. Before you do that maybe you can check the ECU board and DIP pins for continuity? or before you resolder the DIP socket you can try cutting J1 so the ECU will run off the stock maps. Plug the ECU in to your car and put the ignition to ON but dont start it since you dont wanna flodd your motor with the 450's. With the stock P28 the CEL should come on and stay on for a few seconds then turn off. If the CEL comes on and stays on, your ECU might be bad.
ANY GOOD PLACES TO GET THOSE ZIF'S FOR CHEAP?
But that's what I would do. First check your burning and .bin making procedures. If you still get a CEL after you are sure you are burning chips right, start checking out the ECU.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:46 PM 3/28/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you running a resistor box or resistors with the DSM 450's? if so, and you are running a resistor box have you checked it for proper resistance?
RESISTOR BOX HAS PROPER RESISTANCE BUT I CAN CHECK AGAIN
My setup is very similar except for the actual engine type, injectors and the laptop. Are you checking your burners COM ports when you plug it into the laptop? anytime I restart my laptop or unplug and plug my Burn1 and Ostrich I always check the COM ports. Make sure your COM ports are between 1-4 and check the Moates.net instructions on how to setup the Burn1 and how to use it. Even if you have the steps memorized I would suggest you read the instructions again. BURN1 INSTALL BURN1 USE
Also for the MISC tab what options are checked and unchecked? You should try fiddling with the MISC options to see what happens. Try disabling the knock sensor. Also how are you starting your .bins? are you opening up the stockGSR.bin then importing the P28.bin?
YEAH I OPEN THE GSR THEN IMPORT THE P28
You might wanna check around on the uberforums and pgmfi.org to see what effect the incorrect 1K resistor install had.
You might wanna get a ZIF too. All the pulling and pushing of chips might have messed up your DIP sockets solder connections. You might wanna think about resoldering the DIP socket too see if you can fix a possible bad connection. Before you do that maybe you can check the ECU board and DIP pins for continuity? or before you resolder the DIP socket you can try cutting J1 so the ECU will run off the stock maps. Plug the ECU in to your car and put the ignition to ON but dont start it since you dont wanna flodd your motor with the 450's. With the stock P28 the CEL should come on and stay on for a few seconds then turn off. If the CEL comes on and stays on, your ECU might be bad.
ANY GOOD PLACES TO GET THOSE ZIF'S FOR CHEAP?
But that's what I would do. First check your burning and .bin making procedures. If you still get a CEL after you are sure you are burning chips right, start checking out the ECU.
Modified by BlueShadow at 6:46 PM 3/28/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
FSAE
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,495
Likes: 1
From: Drinking Beer, UT
Re: (dustin)
BUMP because I'm having the same problem.
I am going to buy a couple one-time use chips, maybe its the Atmel chips I've been trying to use.
This is really a confusing situation because I ran the ECU for almost 2 months with a chip someone else burnt on their computer, gave them their chip back, tried to burn one on my computer, and now I get solid CEL's on any .bin I try burning.
I am going to buy a couple one-time use chips, maybe its the Atmel chips I've been trying to use.
This is really a confusing situation because I ran the ECU for almost 2 months with a chip someone else burnt on their computer, gave them their chip back, tried to burn one on my computer, and now I get solid CEL's on any .bin I try burning.
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From: Hawaii
Re: (92TypeR)
Yup Yup . . . . confusing it is becuase I was just using the ecu the other day and burning chips fine.
I am using the Moates Burner w/ the Flash-n-Burn software that was made for it.
After chip is burnt I run the verification and it comes back successful. I'm guessing some of the solder cracked some place maybe, so we are gona try to re-solder that bad boy.
Need help though asap! Car cruise on Sat. and never the less my girlfriend flies down to see me next week for her 21st birthday and I ened a car!
BTW . . . how can u fry a chip? If the chips fried would they still burn successfully?
I am using the Moates Burner w/ the Flash-n-Burn software that was made for it.
After chip is burnt I run the verification and it comes back successful. I'm guessing some of the solder cracked some place maybe, so we are gona try to re-solder that bad boy.
Need help though asap! Car cruise on Sat. and never the less my girlfriend flies down to see me next week for her 21st birthday and I ened a car!
BTW . . . how can u fry a chip? If the chips fried would they still burn successfully?
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