Kevin

The car is an 00 Civic SI with stock radiator, sleeved b16, endyn .5mm overbore pistons, eagle rods, stock head, 550cc injectors, chipped p28 on CROME, walbro 255hp, stock head gasket (just replaced it thinking it was the problem), greddy turbo kit @ 7 psi, brand new oem thermostat, spoon 1.3 radiator cap.

The car runs fine out of boost, its in the process of being tuned so everything is good timing wise and AF wise. But we have to cut the sessions short because the temps start rising. Not so much heat that it shows immediately on the factory guage but the actual temps are going over 220 degrees. Im wondering if the factory radiator is being overwhelmed but it just doesnt seem right for such a mild setup, we ran the car with 10 psi of boost on stock sleeves and it didnt seem to run hot although we were only going by the factory gauge.

b18sihatch

are the sleeves open or closed deck?

Kevin

They are closed deck, similar to these.

Bseriescivic5

Yeah it prolly is going to run hot. You have taken away the cooling ability of an open deck. Id say get a more efficient radiator and see what happens. This is one of the reasons i Always use an open deck sleeve such as Bensons. Good luck.

b18sihatch

yea most closed deck sleeved blocks do have cooling issues

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea most closed deck sleeved blocks do have cooling issues</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily.

One thing I didn't care for reading was 'chipped p28' ecu. Do you have a wideband hooked up to monitor the readings? What exactly is your timing? I've ran a stock EG radiator on a 300+whp b16a with zero problems daily... and that was with a dumptube blowing directly onto the radiator pulling way below 220 degrees via hondata.

Kevin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not necessarily.

One thing I didn't care for reading was 'chipped p28' ecu. Do you have a wideband hooked up to monitor the readings? What exactly is your timing? I've ran a stock EG radiator on a 300+whp b16a with zero problems daily... and that was with a dumptube blowing directly onto the radiator pulling way below 220 degrees via hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car is tuned by a reputable local tuner with CROME, a wideband and the timing is set to his liking. This car also has AC, power steering, stock fans etc. The intercooler is the larger greddy bolt on.

The 300whp b16 was sleeved with this type of sleeves?

Is it possible that the intercooler blocking the small radiator, coupled with the sleeves and the cramped engine compartment are all contributing?

This car did sit in a garage for 4 years.

Jared

is it over heating on the dyno and the road?

b18sihatch

however compared to open decked sleeves, i imagine you would see degrees decreaed by open deck and degrees increased by closed decks.

could be many different variables that are causing overheating problems, sleeves maybe, blockage of radiator maybe.

Cheeze

who built the motor? who torque the head and how much. had a similar problem. no cooling problem with no boost, but once start boosting, it over headed. found out was the head bolt torque pound problem. only torque it to OEM spec. once the head was retorque, had no problem after it. i had seem in person when a motor is boosting and it lifted the head and heated the coolant and pressurize the coolant so fast that it blow a coolant hose.

komat

i got a benson sleeve block. just did a 440mile trip pass 2days. was at 4500rpm the whole time without any overheating problems. im running a stock dual core radaitor with a precision 750hp intercooler infront of it.

blackeg

my aebs closed deck block never ran hot, again using just the half rad with a big fmic in front of it

siblues

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my aebs closed deck block never ran hot, again using just the half rad with a big fmic in front of it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same thing here with no problems

full Circling

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gLok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This car did sit in a garage for 4 years.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's your coolant look like? I say flush out your cooling system and check your thermostat.

turbosol_16

i run Benson style sleeves ...no problems i like them alot.... i heard closed deck have heat problews and can cause hot spots on the cylinder head....

poor flow but they can handle more power

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gLok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is an 00 Civic SI with stock radiator, sleeved b16, endyn .5mm overbore pistons, eagle rods, stock head, 550cc injectors, chipped p28 on CROME, walbro 255hp, stock head gasket (just replaced it thinking it was the problem), greddy turbo kit @ 7 psi, brand new oem thermostat, spoon 1.3 radiator cap.

The car runs fine out of boost, its in the process of being tuned so everything is good timing wise and AF wise. But we have to cut the sessions short because the temps start rising. Not so much heat that it shows immediately on the factory guage but the actual temps are going over 220 degrees. Im wondering if the factory radiator is being overwhelmed but it just doesnt seem right for such a mild setup, we ran the car with 10 psi of boost on stock sleeves and it didnt seem to run hot although we were only going by the factory gauge.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not a tuner but my first guess was that since the temps are going up with boost it most likely has to do with your tune.

my temps are on the high side in general 200 ish degrees 210 if im not moving, but they never go up with boost. im running a water cooled turbo. what are your temps if your cruising around out of boost.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by full Circling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's your coolant look like? I say flush out your cooling system and check your thermostat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this sounds like a good idea too.

eg:R

get a better fan. fal fan

b18sihatch

anyone run push and pull fans on their motors?

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone run push and pull fans on their motors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like a bandaid for another problem.

b18sihatch

well just to have more cfm flow over the radiator to cool it down more

0morgan@synapse motorsport

that will only cover up the problem. there is an underlying issue here, the stock cooling system should be enough for this setup. imo

Kevin

The car is not overheating, it is simply running hotter than it should be. It hasnt seen the dyno yet so its only doing it under boost on the street. The factory temp gauge does not move but according to the ecm, its running hotter than normal. It is not the tune that is causing it, i have faith in the tuner as this isnt his first dance.

I have flushed the coolant at least 5 times trying to make sure there are no air bubbles in the system, i use a water wetter/coolant/water mix, the same that ive used in my car and others in the past. The car has a brand new oem thermostat. The head is torqued to 70 ft lbs with arp studs, copper spray and oem gasket. I know that copper spray is not needed but it also does not hurt and i was trying everything i could to help.

I took the radiator out tonight and sprayed it inside and out with water trying to see if there were any pieces of aluminum inside. I also removed the thermostat and flushed the motor with water trying to see if any pieces of aluminum came out. There were some very small pieces of aluminum that came out! Nothing major but IMO there should not be anything, it seems to be a lack of proper cleaning after the sleeving. If it was my car, i would be pulling the motor out and re-doing everything at this point, unfortunately that isnt an option just yet. If this last attempt doesnt fix the hot situation, it has to come out.

After i flushed everything, i filled the car up with the front jacked up, removed the spoon 1.35 radiator cap and went to the oem 1.1. I drove the car around and although i dont have a laptop or obd scanner, it seems to run better. We're going to try to street tune it again tomorrow and see what happens.

full Circling

Can you datalog? How's your ignition timing advance look?

OBRJosh

Who did your darton sleeve install? Also does the temp go up extremly fast after a pull??? Stock Rads work fine my buddy runs a stock rad with darton sleeves and 30psi and at the end of the track the temps are under 210, So 7psi should not be getting the engine Hott

OBRJosh

weve been chasing a "getting hot" situation on my buddys LS turbo for months soon as you hit some boost temps would rise 220-225 and slowly cool down, we thought it was a faulty sensor, changed it out, changed the autometer gauge, changed thermostat, switched to a dual core, got a more CFM Fan,all that helped alittle but would still rise to 220-225, and finnelly we popped the head of and the 2 of darton sleeves sunk just enough to catch your fingure nail on So depending on who did the sleeve job Beware sounds like simular problem