shoc non-vtec boost build
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From: Federick, MD, usa
hopefully this is in the right place but i was wondering would a 96 cx head and a 16a6 bottom be good for a nice build?? I'm trying to work with what i have.
i hope that you're gonna sleeve that block, if you're not then dont waste ur time with that block because the sleeves shift causing the head to lift, and ur gonna be blowing headgaskets left and right
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope that you're gonna sleeve that block, if you're not then dont waste ur time with that block because the sleeves shift causing the head to lift, and ur gonna be blowing headgaskets left and right</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, don't ever waste time writing about d-series blocks again. Ever. That block is sturdy enough. The weak point is the OEM headbolts, but I doubt he'd make enough power for them to be an issue.
People have taken worse (full d15b2) and made 150-175whp with them boosted & somewhat reliable. I'd say take a 50trim T3 (the volvo .42/.48) and boost 10psi max. The head will give you a motor with more mid-range than top end, but great gas milage
I would use the word 'setup' rather than build - any money you put into that head would be better spent by getting an A6 or ZC head.
Despite the low-cost of d-series stuff, there is a point where 'cheap' doesn't equate 'cost-effective'.
Damn, don't ever waste time writing about d-series blocks again. Ever. That block is sturdy enough. The weak point is the OEM headbolts, but I doubt he'd make enough power for them to be an issue.
People have taken worse (full d15b2) and made 150-175whp with them boosted & somewhat reliable. I'd say take a 50trim T3 (the volvo .42/.48) and boost 10psi max. The head will give you a motor with more mid-range than top end, but great gas milage
I would use the word 'setup' rather than build - any money you put into that head would be better spent by getting an A6 or ZC head.Despite the low-cost of d-series stuff, there is a point where 'cheap' doesn't equate 'cost-effective'.
why not just build a y8 they are like 100 bucks more for vtec + the comps Turbo cam for the SOHC will give you much higher power up high with VTEC then a none vtec setup
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From: Federick, MD, usa
yea i was thinking about a y8 untill i seen the buikd that one of the guys on the board did u i think he used vitaria pistons,block guard arp studs of course and eagle rods and got the head and block freshin up and ran 12.7 so i'm like **** why not
your wat better getting a y8, look at my sig. this is bone stock block on a dyno that the guy said is wrong most of the time on light cars, he said i should be realisticly at like 240whp and this is a full street trim car... very heavy car 3460 lbs
Modified by y8-turbo at 8:58 AM 12/31/2005
Modified by y8-turbo at 8:58 AM 12/31/2005
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn, don't ever waste time writing about d-series blocks again. Ever. That block is sturdy enough. The weak point is the OEM headbolts, but I doubt he'd make enough power for them to be an issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, don't you ever waste time again writing about D-series blocks.
There is nothing wrong with OEM head bolts. It is bore shift that blows head gaskets, due to a narrow bore, heat build up, and too much ignition timing.
Damn, don't ever waste time writing about d-series blocks again. Ever. That block is sturdy enough. The weak point is the OEM headbolts, but I doubt he'd make enough power for them to be an issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, don't you ever waste time again writing about D-series blocks.
There is nothing wrong with OEM head bolts. It is bore shift that blows head gaskets, due to a narrow bore, heat build up, and too much ignition timing.
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