block fortification?
i have a b18a1 block with a b18b1 head i would like to run15lbs of boost what fortifications do i need to do the block to run safely of course i will be pushing it hard a lot
Build the entire bottom end, pistons, rods, ARP bolts all over. Build the head, valves, springs cams, cam gears. Get an ECU program(hondata) and find a good place to get it all dyno tuned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal_INTEGRA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a good idea to get a block guard too, they cost like a $100 bux.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jDMJeRk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea... I think you just sleeve it and you're good right? That's the impression I got from a lot of reading but I've never actually done it.
Yea... I think you just sleeve it and you're good right? That's the impression I got from a lot of reading but I've never actually done it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jDMJeRk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is that?? Not enough flow for the coolant or something??
I know I have read mixed opinions on block guards but I never understood why. They work like a brace, so they add more strength.
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why is that?? Not enough flow for the coolant or something??
I know I have read mixed opinions on block guards but I never understood why. They work like a brace, so they add more strength.
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you know what you need to do for teh strongest turbo block. there are three things you need to do.
Step 1. SEARCH. the FI forum has this asked like millions of times
Step 2. Repeat step 1
Step 3. Go back to step 1.
Step 1. SEARCH. the FI forum has this asked like millions of times
Step 2. Repeat step 1
Step 3. Go back to step 1.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jDMJeRk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Build the entire bottom end, pistons, rods, ARP bolts all over. Build the head, valves, springs cams, cam gears. Get an ECU program(hondata) and find a good place to get it all dyno tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a lot of money but you would have a fast and reliable car. I would have a reputable machine shop do it though
If i sleeved the block IMO i wouldnt block guard it.... block guards are good for stock sleeves and most will tell you they arent even ok to use then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Build the entire bottom end, pistons, rods, ARP bolts all over. Build the head, valves, springs cams, cam gears. Get an ECU program(hondata) and find a good place to get it all dyno tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a lot of money but you would have a fast and reliable car. I would have a reputable machine shop do it though
i know abou the basics such as the rods and pistons and such.my concern was more about weather or not i have to sleve the block for that psi reason bieng i dont know of any shops in delaware that would even touch that!so if i biult the botom end put a sleve brace and crank girdle what would be a safe psi to run on that.thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know abou the basics such as the rods and pistons and such.my concern was more about weather or not i have to sleve the block for that psi reason bieng i dont know of any shops in delaware that would even touch that!so if i biult the botom end put a sleve brace and crank girdle what would be a safe psi to run on that.thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you want to be reliable, and you want to run at least 15psi like you said, I'd highly suggest to sleeve your block. Search for that here on HT and you will find some reputable companies that will do it provided you ship your block to them. (Golden Eagle Manufacturing and Darton come to mind)
I won't get into the details of sleeving and why it's important, just believe us when we say it's important in a good turbo setup. Search will cover the rest of the details.
With aftermarket ductile iron sleeves, it doesn't really matter whether or not you put a block guard in. I wouldn't even bother. A crank girdle won't accomplish anything unless you plan to rev higher than your stock redline often (something that a turbo car doesn't "usually" need to do often, especially in a street car).
NOTE: I had a block guard in my application, and never had any coolant issues. Neither did any of my friends who did the same thing. We used a JG Engine Dynamics block guard ($100 from http://www.importparts.com).
I would do what thaiphob suggests and search. This has been discussed many many many times. We have a HUGE forced induction forum here, and your question is the first question anyone asks.
If you want to be reliable, and you want to run at least 15psi like you said, I'd highly suggest to sleeve your block. Search for that here on HT and you will find some reputable companies that will do it provided you ship your block to them. (Golden Eagle Manufacturing and Darton come to mind)
I won't get into the details of sleeving and why it's important, just believe us when we say it's important in a good turbo setup. Search will cover the rest of the details.
With aftermarket ductile iron sleeves, it doesn't really matter whether or not you put a block guard in. I wouldn't even bother. A crank girdle won't accomplish anything unless you plan to rev higher than your stock redline often (something that a turbo car doesn't "usually" need to do often, especially in a street car).
NOTE: I had a block guard in my application, and never had any coolant issues. Neither did any of my friends who did the same thing. We used a JG Engine Dynamics block guard ($100 from http://www.importparts.com).
I would do what thaiphob suggests and search. This has been discussed many many many times. We have a HUGE forced induction forum here, and your question is the first question anyone asks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BremertonDA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor creats the power, it's not subject to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd love to see the explanation on that one.
I'd love to see the explanation on that one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MolecularIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blocks can handle a certain amout of POWER, not PSI. Saying you want to run 15 psi means pretty much nothing. Do you want 250 whp or 500 whp? That's more important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BremertonDA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor creats the power, it's not subject to it. PSI and turbo size is what you need to be looking at when thinking about building a motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's wrong...
just to clear it up...
-Mike
He's right...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BremertonDA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor creats the power, it's not subject to it. PSI and turbo size is what you need to be looking at when thinking about building a motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's wrong...
just to clear it up...
-Mike
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