BIG LUIS

first clutch was a no name 6 puck sprung "high performance" clutch. Second clutch is a act 6 puck and its currently slipping. what clutches are you guys running anything reliable with out breaking the bank? The setup is a 2.0 lsvtec 10.5 compression ratio bb turbo making 330whp 270tq and its daily driven.

thanks for the feedback

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

How exactly are you breaking it in? Did you resurface the flywheel when replacing clutches? What pressure plate are you using?

BIG LUIS

400 miles of light street driving never on full throttle and the flywheel is new. The pressure plate is the one that came with the kit

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

But which one? They are rated by torque capacity. Also break in is usually 500 miles... It makes a difference. Also are you sure the friction disc is properly aligned? Even a slight misalignment will kill a clutch quick.

Runnerdown

Hard to believe an ACT 6 puck would be slipping under such low power. Break in with that type of material is required but I have never had one slip before this occurred.

This doesn't make any sense, once the parts are put together you can't change the alignment. That action is just for a stress free assembly of engine and trans.

blackeg

i used to run act's but got tired of the disks falling apart annually. there would be like pinky fingernail size chunks of the friction material that would just fall apart. i switched to the comp stage 5 with upgraded pp and its all good been 2 years now.



i would get that flywheel resurfaced, and go real easy on the grease on the throw out bearing and trans mainshaft. maybe you got a bit to much on there and the centrifugal force splattered it on the friction material.

also dont forget to use the proper tq steps, specs and pattern on the pp bolts. buena suerte!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

It sounds odd but I've seen discs that were slightly misaligned during install fail quickly. It's weird but it's happened. Probably from the input shaft tugging on the disc while it's clamped down or something damaging the hub or friction material.

BIG LUIS

exactly It lasted around a year. What brand did you use when you said comp stage 5?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Comp = Competition Clutch. That's what I used on my turbo D, loved it.

sleepencivic

Be careful when installing the transmission not to hang the transmission from the input shaft as you insert it into the clutch disk, the disk can bend easily when working the transmiussion around when alighning the dowels. This slight bend can cause premature failure of the clutch.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yup. I've seen that happen

met

I'm running a 6 puck stage 4 competition clutch. I had two clutches replaced under warranty. I'm making just under 500whp. This third one from them no problems what so ever. Right from the start I gave it hell, and its been in the car around 20k miles now.

Just a thought, I have no experience with them failing due to this but they say with the puck clutches not to ride them at all.

ls joker

i agree with sleepencivic, if you installed it properly

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

But remember that 6 puck doesn't mean jack, he could be running a sintered iron friction disc but if the pressure plate isn't designed to handle the torque increase the disc doesn't mean dick. He could have a 6 puck sold hub disc in a stage 1 pressure plate for all we know

BIG LUIS

Thanks for all the input. So competition clutch stage 5, any other clutches you guys are running for daily driven street cars?

BIG LUIS

so two of the competition clutch stage 4s Failed prematurely?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I only use competition, no issues across various platforms and driving styles.

They are a local company, have excellent customer service, and stand behind their product 110%.

BIG LUIS

Cool, What stage do you recommend?

blackeg

this is very true. i always get it on the dowels and then get the top 2 trans bolts in to support the weight before i take my left hand off the tranny. once i get that done ill put the other bolts in, back off the top 2 and then go through trying to get opposite bolts tightened as i go. you can put a tiny bit of grease on the dowels to help them

phaphon

Im using clutch masters on mines . Last one lasted me about 10k miles but I beat on it from the start

met

I just found it very annoying having to take the tranny back out a few times only after a few thousand miles. As soon as they saw the clutch they replaced it no questions, just wanted to make sure I didnt cause damage. The third one, that in now I gave it hell from the start, I wanted to see if it would fail right away. The pressure plate locating straps broke and the whole pressure plate twisted on the first two.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

For your power level I'd say a stage 3 or 4 sprung hub.

The stage 4 will give you some wiggle room if you want more power down the road. Since it's street driven stay with the sprung hub to reduce the harshness of engagement. Not only will it make it much nicer to drive but you won't have to slip the clutch as much from a stop increasing the lifespan of the clutch and the sprung hub will also reduce the stress on the drivetrain components.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Just speaking in "stages" is a little disingenuous. One company's stage 4 is another's stage 2, so on and so forth. If we're speaking specifically about Competition Clutch, the stage 2 is rated to ~250 torque, stage 3 to ~350, and stage 4 to to ~400 sprung/450 unsprung. You also have to remember that generally, the higher the "stage", the shorter the life, and the harsher the clutch will be. A stage 3 CC clutch will cover your power goals, and still have good street manners. If you're going with CC, that's the one to use.

BIG LUIS

I was asking specifically taking about competition clutch, sorry for not being clear.
Thanks for the input

BIG LUIS

Cool thanks man