adseguy

I just installed my 750cc SATURATED (high impedance injectors), but the problem is I had some DSM 450 P&H (low impedance) injectors before. I obviously had to have a resistor box put in and it worked no problem.

I took off the resistor box and just let all 8 wires (4 from injectors and the 4 I have no idea where from) hang out.

Heres the pic:



The ones with the blackish end went to the injectors and the other wires were bundled together and tied to the resistor box as the "red wire" like below



Now like I said I just let the wires open circuit (nothing connected to anything) That's how the dead end connector is <U>right</U>? If I do this, I can crank forever and nothing happens.
If I let the resitor box stay it barely idles and nothing I do can help them idle.


NOW, I noticed that out of the 4 wires goign to who knows where (ECU???!?) one of them is a 12v source...I notice if I split this wire to all the injector wires it barely idles again and can't do anything.

What do I need to do to revert back to my original saturated, noi resitor box, setup. I think the dead eng plug is not just open circuit to all the wires...there has to be some kind on internal circuitry that I can't firgure out. Any way I can't find which wire goes to which or what else I can do...I'm stumped and my battery finally died due to too many starts ( and the radio running )

Any more info needed just post away and I can give you info.

PS: I'm noticed when installing my original clips wouldn't work on the RC injectors so I shaved off some of the plastic on the RC injector instead of ordering the "special" clips and they fit fine now. Just throwing that out there if that will matter at all.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

That terminal where all of the ylw/blk wires dead-end into is a distribution block that gives all the injectors, EVAP purge solenoid, oxygen sensor, and another sensor or solenoid 12VDC+.

I don't remember what color the 12VDC+ source from the IGN is. I think it's red/blk. I can look it up when I get home and maybe even give you a wiring diagram.

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That terminal where all of the ylw/blk wires dead-end into is a distribution block that gives all the injectors, EVAP purge solenoid, oxygen sensor, and another sensor or solenoid 12VDC+.

I don't remember what color the 12VDC+ source from the IGN is. I think it's red/blk. I can look it up when I get home and maybe even give you a wiring diagram.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, but all the wires are ylw/blk, but one does have a 12V source. I would LOVE the diagram though. I have been fliping through the pdf of the 1.5k page helms, but can't find anything useful in section 11

HamiltonRex

Ok..

Ill see if i can help you.

Injectors work by being GROUNDED by the ECU.. Basically, you have 1 wire going into the resistor box.. Thats your 12V.. Then 4 comming out, which is 4.5V.. These go the the injectors.. 1 per injector, order dosent matter, or polairty on the injectory.

Next, each injector has its own ground.. which goes back to the ECU, if you look at a pinout you will see.. Inj 1, 2.. etc.

They need to go to the other side of the injector.


Im not too sur eon the colours for your veichle since i deal with an obd0 harness, but im sure you could figure it out. Just all you have to remember.. Is the resistor box has 5 wires, 1 12v, and 4 4.5v wires.. It just loweres the voltage, so if you want to bypass it, just simply cut all the wires off going into it and hook them together in a big ball.. So that all the injectors get 12V instead of 4.5.. If you want to go back, take the wire comming though the firewall on the drivers side.. (steady 12V) and go into the box, and then out of the box, take 1 wire to each. The 12V in on the box will be the only wire thats a diff colour.. I believe its red/blk, and the others are yel/blk.

Then the other side of the injector is grd back to the ECU.

Hope that helps.

adseguy

I understand the ECU grounds the injectors to turn them on. This is an OBD1 car with 240cc saturated injectors stock.

I took the one ylw/blk wire in the picure that had 12V coming out of it and wrapped it "in a big ball" (all shorted to each other) to all 8 wires but had the bad idling and hard to not stall problem (don't worry it's not just the idle the whole range is f'ed up). Should I be taking a rd/bl wire from somewhere? It seems strange since I didn't touch one when I did the resistor box install.

PS: the ylw/blk that had 12V was found because I took a multimeter to it and it had about 9-11 volts measured across the wire to a single injector wire. Is this not the 12V source I need? I'm thinking this could be the problem, but at the same time I never touched any other wires that I know of. Thanks again guys, much much appreciated

HamiltonRex

Im sorry dude, i dont know what to say.

The obd1 must be a bit different setup then mine, i will look at my friends car tommorow, that way i will know exactly what your tlaking about.

Im assuming you will have it figured out by then.

adseguy

BUMP for this 12V wire!??!?!?

Mase

reading your thread is confusing so let me try to start fresh


i think you have the idea of the junction box wrong.

that junction box you called "dead end connector" isnt a dead end.

its a junction box and basically what that does is there is one 12v source running into that junction and powering every other wire that is connected to it.

basically that one wire connects to the others.

if you dont provide power to each of those 7 other wires, (4 being injectors and a few other sensors) theres no way that car will ever run.

EDIT:
ok i reread it, it seems like u get the picture. the car isnt going to run very well unless you have a good 750cc basemap.

adseguy

Yeah. I shorted them all to each other (every wire connected to each other) and the car started, but idled rough again today. The WB read lean so I added fuel to the point where the original 750cc's where shooting as 600cc injectors. I've never had to add THAT much fuel to injectors to get them to idle and drive around. I checked the plugs and all of them read rich.

My original problem is solved, now it's all about the injectors working and getting the tune. Thanks for all the help guys, always appreciated

/Thread

Mase

good luck on the tuning

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah. I shorted them all to each other (every wire connected to each other) and the car started, but idled rough again today. The WB read lean so I added fuel to the point where the original 750cc's where shooting as 600cc injectors. I've never had to add THAT much fuel to injectors to get them to idle and drive around. I checked the plugs and all of them read rich.

My original problem is solved, now it's all about the injectors working and getting the tune. Thanks for all the help guys, always appreciated

/Thread</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are using crome, that isn't an abnormal problem. I had to add 30% to my damn car to get it to think about idling.

Good luck getting it going.