what would be a safe redline ???

setup:
b18c ge sleeved
83mm cp pistons 9:1
crower pro billet rods
gsr crank
acl bearings

head: b16
supertech valve springs titanium retainers
stock b16 valves
jdm 98 spec type r cams
type r intake mani and throttle body
arp head studs
cometic head gasket

turbo kit:
spoolin ramhorn manifold
precision gt35r turbo .63 exh
3" dp 3" exhaust
spoolin intercooler with 2.5" piping
tial 44mm wg
greddy type r bov

apexi power fc
apex i map sensor
880cc sard injectors
aem fuel rail
sard fpr

till where can i rev it safely ?? another question is what kind of power do you guys think i can make with this setup at 98 octane fuel.. ??? because no dyno available where i live ...

 

I've got a supertech valvetrain GSR head that was worked by portflow and purchased through laskey racing. It has seen 10k before but I keep the rev limiter set at 9400 do to my powerband on the GT30R setup.

A dyno plot would tell you best when to shift but I think you will see most people take there motors up to 9500ish and anything past that is usually a big turbo/drag setup and not a daily driver.

 

The dyno will tell the real story, but on a similar setup I've used, 8800rpms is a good point because that is where power will start to drop off anyway. 9K is used really as an overlap point to get ready for the next turn from my use of it.

 

very true ... been revving it to 8400 ... but ive just changed the pistons and runnin it in these days. .... i guess ill bump it up close to 9000 ...... teh dyno is a limiting factor here .... since i dont have one in my whole country for that matter .... but looking at the specs which i stated above and that im running 1.8 bars of boost with 24 degrees of total timing and the maths involved what numbers can i be making ????

 

there's no way to tell that sir. this is why dynos exist. There are plenty in other countries that can street tune cars w/o the need of a dyno, but there are SOOO many other factors that are taken into account, in which a dyno can make those calculations in real time.

1.8bars (26psi) of boost is a big amount of pressure, even for that turbocharger, but that doesn't mean that there may not be leaks in your vacuum system or large pressure drops from your intercooler that could change that amount of pressure for that turbo to something that isn't accurate. If anyone wants to try and "guesstimate" what he has, be my guest, but I'd rather not be that inaccurate in the name of a power number that has little bearing on what he's trying to do other than bragging rights.

You can also check the compressor map and possibly look at some other factors to determine wheel hp, but there are a LOT of other calculations you need to even begin.
Compressor map
Max rpm for a given displacement
turbine map
Volumetric Efficiency
etc.

 

I would say try to get it as high as possible.
If you start to feel the car wanting to pull back, shift.
I would say around 9.4k would be the close to redline,
so around 9.2k you should shift

 

I think he's looking more at what is the most effective rpm range to shift. "feeling" power is different than actually knowing when is the best time to shift. After over 8300rpms on most b-series engines, the amount of power creation has actually stopped, and the engine is simply trying to sustain that maximum power level as much as possible. (which is only a few hundred rpms). You can rev until 9500, but doesn't mean you'll sustain that power level at 9500rpms. Again, this is where a proper dyno comes into play.

 

What is your 1/4mile trap speed and total weight? We can give you a ball park number...

 

He may not drag race, and/or it may only be an 1/8th mile. Different countries have different venues of motorsports for turbo hondas.

Hell, I don't know the trap speeds or 1/4 mile times of any of the cars I've had. never cared i guess.

 

On my built GSR bottom end and built ITR head with stock 01 ITR cams and .63AR GT35R peak HP was around 8750 and about to slowly fall, while torque was already slowly falling since 7500, yet I was shifting at 9500. I've sinced upgraded to the .86AR turbine housing and make power past 9500rpm, but I still only rev to 9500.

Portflow'ed 01 ITR head, stock cams, supertech valve train.

This was with the .63 AR...



Current setup now makes 545whp/383wtq

 

the ****ing sky.

vtec to the maximum.

rev to 9500 safely but you gotta find where you max power drops of and how your gearing comes into play

 

hey take it easy there shodan .... i was just asking a question i thought poeple with similar setups might have an answer to ... im not considering you guys to be an online dyno or something ... ive tuned and made a few cars and i know that my hands are tide cause i dont have a dyno and no one here even cares about a freakin dyno ... i live in pakistan by the way (land of the taliban as you may know), we race here on the streets, i dont have a dyno yet we(as in a bunch of my friends ) have made quite a few turbo charged cars including single turbo supras, evos and hondas ... this is my personal car and my first seriously built honda, we dont have a dyno but we are blessed with 100 octane pump fuel (thanks to saudi arabian morons) .... all is done in the name of the sport if you may call that , for the passion of having powerful cars .... so just ease down .... just wanted a dyno number from a person with my similar setup thats it just like the other gentlemen posted ..... if i tell you the amount of money weve spent on getting our cars and the parts that you guys can easily buy off the shelf there youll be shocked ..... all in the love of power boys, all in the love of powerrrrrr ......

 

by the way thank you for the dyno sheet Tchleung ......

 

This maybe a stupid question but I take it you get all your parts shipped from the US?

You insinuated that the parts cost you more, Is that because of the exchange rate and/or shipping cost? I'm curious, how much did your 35r wind up costing you?

Also most of us don't buy are parts off a shelf, we order them from people and places we've never seen or been, probably just like you.

I live in a very rural area in the 'states' and here there are simply no resources at hand concerning a turbo honda. It normally comes down to trial and error and the internet.

I really couldn't imagine going to Pakistan and seeing a turbo honda rip past a camel wastegate blazin..

And, it really blows me away you got your hands on all thous nice parts. How are you tuning it?

 

this is only a piston and rod gsr with gsr cams, but it pulls to 8k with no drop off, and then just levels out from there, rev limit is set at 9500. gt35r .86ar

 

ok then if your asking ...
we cannot import cars older than 36 months into pakistan, recently that ban was removed for a period of 6-8 months so we got a few cars in then shutdown, the thing that kills us the most here is customs duty and taxes, a gt35r turbo is for 1250 or so dollars there u mite have to pay shipping with in us at the most, we have to pay shipping on top of that to pakistan that also of the EXPRESS MAIL INTRERNATIONAL service by usps other wise our parcels most of the time tend to get lost, then i have to get it examined it doesnt gets delivered to my doorstep, then i have to pay customs duty which for an item like a gt35r is 100% of the actual cost plus shipping, but we have loop holes we bribe the custom officer to reduce the duy to 50% or so sometimes hes in a good mood simetimes hes not, so how does it feel to get a gt35r turbo after all that headache for lets say 2200-2300 dollars ??? sucks doesnt it when i know that its not worth that much .... that is why we ask for discount from vendors there again and again, i am running a spoolin performance turbo kit (solid stuff by the way) and phil is a great guy he didnt include any invoices or paperwork with the shipment which saved me tons here but still it costed me hell of a lot more than you guys, and its not just the shipping ..... hell i bought my 96 gsr integra here which was used and abused since it was imported here for 15000 usd ... a plane jane 96 supra costs us 50000 dollars from japan ..... so do the maths .... the basic reason for joining this forum and asking you guys questions is for a reference purpose only, we do stuff that has been tested and tried by you guys, just to know that the setup i have is capable of this mich power which one of you actually made on a dyno thtats it, we cannot afford to try out new stuff here, so there are people kind enuff here to help us out a lot like phil ......

by the way tuning equipment is an apexi power fc with datalogit software, dynojet wide band , knock link, and me good old butt dyno .....

 

We have a saying in the USA - "you know where the door is, if you don't like it (Pakistan), leave." That's not an insult, btw. The full quote is a little more 'inflamitory'.

If your parts can support it, get it tuned fairly high rpm. Then use a long, flat road and a very accurate timing system (or a drag strip, if you have them) to find out where your best shift points are. Revving a bone-stock NA GSR up to 8500rpm will be slower than shifting at 8k in most cases, to give you an idea. Many (stock) STI owners shift 500rpm before redline because they make tons of power earlier.

One thing you could try is an accellerometer (g-meter). If it shows much less accelleration at 9500 than at 8500, you know power is dropping off. Wind/road resistance will play a role, but not by that much. Freescale makes accelerometer sensors for ~$15 each, and literally only need a volt meter and +5vdc power source to work. I use Innovate's SSI-4 for logging it.

 

dude its not that easy to leave pakistan through that door.... we have our lives invested here ....... but thts beside the point ....

i do have a g-tech pro unit .... ill be installing it in a few days time lets see what it says .....

 

cool man. Nice to see that people are doing up turbo hondas all around the world. sounds like a nice set up.