Flashmn

The paint doesnt absorb radar, its there to dissipate heat.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When did I mention dependable buddy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said reliable. And I gave you the definition of reliable.

A Honda is reliable, if you paint it does it become less reliable ? No.

Once again look at the definition of reliable

1 : suitable or fit to be relied on : DEPENDABLE
2 : giving the same result on successive trials

Full-Race Javier

anodizing is definitely the way to go imo. my old setup used a garrett core (~20x11x3 in.) with fab'd entanks, 2.5 in. inlet/outlet, and hard ano black. IATs where always 10-15 deg above ambient the hard ano is tougher than paint too...it doesnt chip off as easy.

fwiw, one of the best ways to ensure cool IATs regardless of the ic finish, is to "duct" the fmic...make sure the air flow has an easy way in and an easy way out through the core, not around it. all this while still providing air to the rad and keeping drag to a minimum

here are some examples of greater vehicle speed/larger mass flow rates help a fmic transfer heat.

my old beater (above mentioned setup)...iirc 3rd, 4th, 5th gear.

geoffs civic yrs ago...forget the setup, but illustrates the same trend.

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Attend college (or advanced highschool) physics classes and learn about thermodynamics. Then draw a new conclusion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Welll I wouldnt need to do that since my degree has NOTHING to do with physics or thermodynamics. I DONT know what would happen but I figured if someone just painted the **** out of it, it could clog it. Other than that I wasnt trying to make a point liek I know what I am talking about. Nice try though

abraunb16

Javi, did you get that done in AZ or send it out? I was thinking about anodizing the new cooler I'm getting. I painted my last one and it turned out great, I just want a cleaner finish.

FWIW, I used BBQ flat black paint from Home Depot. I painted my end tanks and misted the fins. I also painted all the piping, worked out great and looked nice. Flat black looked so much better than gloss, IMO.

95lstegman

like someone asked earlier, how much would one be looking at to anozide the intercooler? if the price isn't bad i could see doing that instead of painting.

Full-Race Javier

we try and do everything locally if not in house....we located a facility that does great work, quick turn around too. let us know if you when you want it done

turbosi03

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Javier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we try and do everything locally if not in house....we located a facility that does great work, quick turn around too. let us know if you when you want it done </TD></TR></TABLE>

frm my experience I say go with the anodize if you can... yeah paint is quick and cheap... but it does chip away fast then starts to look like ****. I had to go over my IC with a black permenent marker.

gheto fabulous, or done the right way... both works, but anodize is the way to go IMO

Falqon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You said reliable. And I gave you the definition of reliable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I'm really looking forward to the quote where you show me that I used the word reliable.

Falqon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's all. concret and aluminum have silmiar densites yet one is really good at conducting heat and the other is not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Steel 8030 kg/m3

Concrete 2400 kg/m3

advert

been this way for months now

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Steel 8030 kg/m3

Concrete 2400 kg/m3 </TD></TR></TABLE>

*cough* cough* I had used aluminium in my example

concrete (stone mix) 2300 kg/m3, 1.4 W/mK (different density then what you found cause there are about a billion types of concrete
Aluminum (pure) 2702kg/m3, 237 W/mK
Steel (ss 316): 8238 kg/m3, 13.4W/mK
Uranium 19 070 kg/m3, 27.6W/mK
Glass 2500kg/m3, 1.4 W/mK

See, density has nothing to do with it's ability to conduct heat.

Falqon

my bad, was typing in class!

You and I both know concrete isn't a valid option, it could be depleted uranium density, but if it's that porous aint gonna work.

old man neri

ya, Al has always been the choice for rads and ICs. I was just showing that desity is not the thing that determines conduction.


wtf, you are not rocking a concrete intercooler? it's so chip resistant!. Actually silver would be the best but a little heavy, pricy and boy would that look cheesy. not to mention how quickly someone would tax that from your car.


anyways, enough of this crap for me for one thread! I am onto hydraulics and pnematics not. Enjoy your class.

95lstegman

of course, then again, at least half of all turbo applications could be just as well fed by a large side-mounted intercooler. i myself am kind of leaning towards this option myself. you can fit a pretty large intercooler with a little cutting, and it can be plenty efficient for any stock motor with proper ducting. it would be the sleeper way to go except that maintaining good flow would take some pretty obvious ducting.

jdm123

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm, okay . . . anybody know a chick whose legs are anywhere NEAR the size of an intercooler? i don't think they make pantyhose that big. maybe if you have a small i/c you could get away with this, but if you have a large front-mount i just can't imagine you can stretch it that far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really fat chicks need pantyhose to

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok, I'm really looking forward to the quote where you show me that I used the word reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry I was quoting the wrong guy.

KeyserSoze

Here is a before and some after picts of my ic anodized black........




I think it came out perfect. Here is the car it will be going on......



Funny story........I called a place named Alumin-Art in Ontario Ca to ask how much it would be to anodize my intercooler and they quoted me $100 over the phone. I assumed it would be that much so I wasn't trippin. I sent my girlfriend down to drop the ic off with them and the guy @ the counter said "For you beautiful, $50." I was like WTF? $50!!!! But then a guy from the back room (who couldn't see her) yelled out "$75." I was like, cool **** because it was still cheaper than I was quoted. When I asked her what she was wearing she told me it was some low cut top and tight jeans (My gf is black and puerto rican, she has a nice round ***, green eyes and some really nice *******). When I went in to pick it up I made sure I took here with me and told her to wear some **** that made her **** look extra big and round, so she did. I walked in with her and the guy who originally told her $50 was there to help us, he handed me my newly anodized black ic and said that'll be $50. I just smiled while I handed him the money.

PS - thanx for the quote 89SiPimpin.

A wise old man once told me......."Even ugly girls like to f.u.c.k."
BTW, that was my dad.

bnut510

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought that was the grill for a second! </TD></TR></TABLE>

looks like the jrc anodized

coquitlamEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ROFLOL, you were told the right answer (radar) and you STILL don't get it, amazing. Every wonder why every one of our stealth aircraft are black? B2, SR-71, F117, they're called "black jets" for crying out loud. You don't see flat black F15's, those get hot too you know. The paint is iron ferrite for a reason.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. I know this isn't a stealth aircraft forum, but your last post was so cocky that i just can't stop myself. First of all the SR-71 is NOT a stealth aircraft. Here's a quote from the official SR-71 website:

Although most news reports characterize the SR-71 aircraft as `radar evading', in point of fact, however, the SR-71 was one of the largest radar targets ever detected on the FAA's long-range radars. The FAA was able to track it at ranges of several hundred miles. The explanation offered was that the radars were detecting the exhaust plume.

Second, the paint on the SR-71 is not the same paint used on stealth fighters. Here's another quote from the SR-71 website:

The aircraft's largely titanium structure is coated with a special black paint that helps dissipate the intense frictional heat resulting from flight through the atmosphere at faster than three times the speed of sound. It also gives the plane its distinctive "Blackbird" nickname.

Beeeach!

95lstegman

and besides, to whoever it was that said the SR-71 was designed to fly higher than radar . . . that's a misnomer as well. radar can see it fine, but no projectiles could even come close to its effective ceiling. so the enemy could see it up there spying, but they couldn't do anything about it. even better than stealth! "haha, i'm here, i'm doin bad stuff, and you can't do anything about it, beeotch!"

J337_UNIT

For all you who think painting the I/C black will decrease its performance... heres some food for thought.

When I painted my intercooler black... hondata logger indicated no difference in air temps. And the dyno indicated no difference in power what so ever. BOOYAAA

HiProfile

You can't fly 'above' radar. What you can do is fly near the ionisphere, of which only the most powerful radar stations can penetrate (at least at the time the SR-71 was designed). The fact is that black absorbs the most electromagnetic waves (of which light and radar are). And then for the density argument, if you want the MOST efficient intercooler, you'll go with pure silver. Otherwise copper is the best solution. Silver is the MOST heat conductive metal known to man, with copper coming in second. Aluminum is used due to it's very low weight, ease of forming, and low cost vs copper/silver.

If you're dumb enough to paint entire surface of the FMIC black, you shouldn't be allowed to drive. The fact is that aerosol paint can't penetrate very far into the fins, so even a good paint job will have covered just a small percent of the total surface area. Even a 20% reduction in heat transfer would only net a 2% reduction overall if only 10% of the surface area was covered - no more than 5% if the front fins did most of the work. 220*F dropped to 110*F would mean the paint in that scenerio would only let the temps drop to 115.5*F

Falqon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coquitlamEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The aircraft's largely titanium structure is coated with a special black paint that helps dissipate the intense frictional heat resulting from flight through the atmosphere at faster than three times the speed of sound. It also gives the plane its distinctive "Blackbird" nickname.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And what website is that? You don't paint things with iron ferrite for heat disappation.

http://www.wvi.com/~sr71webmas...n.htm

EKhothatch

Black radiator paint was used on mine. Makes sense...