I have a 00si with a greddy kit, TRM exhuast, and other wise stock car. this coming week I will be installing a exedy clutch, motor mount inserts, and a FMIC. currently at the 5.5psi the car runs great except the occasional cel at idle everything seems perfect. Once I put the FMIC on what boost can I run using the bluebox still without damaging anything, 7 or 8 psi? I can't afford to spend anymore money on the car for a long time so gettting any fuel management is out of the question. thanks as always for any helpful replies.

 

I know for a fact people will tell you to use the search. But, from what I understand 7-8 is safe and up to 10-11 with proper fuel management. The search function really is great I have learned a lot jut by reading.

 

yeh I know the search works but figured this was a little more than just whats a good clutch. I wanted to see what people recommended and suggest is safe with the way I am setup. and most people don't seem to use the bluebox that was the main reason I posted it. thanks for the reply.

 

most blue boxes are good for 7-8psi, i have seen a couple that do 9-10 without problems.

get a wideband 02 and look at your a/f

platinum.

 

Or instead of using wideband just hit the highway and throw it in 3rd and watch your autometer A/F gauge at WOT. ECU won't be correcting your air fuel so you'll get a good reading and be able to tune off of it.

 

I'm sorry, but the a/f gauges that are out there are garbage. You have just as good of a chance tuning your car by ear than to rely on that a/f gauge. Unless its a wideband then its a pile.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uoboarder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sorry, but the a/f gauges that are out there are garbage. You have just as good of a chance tuning your car by ear than to rely on that a/f gauge. Unless its a wideband then its a pile.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Must.....not....flame.....yet....so hard....not to.....

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Must.....not....flame.....yet....so hard....not to..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

not much to flame about, he is absolutely correct.


Rob

 

yeah AFAIK, those gauges will read rich if your 14.6:1, great help

 

Flame away dude. You'd be the fool for doing it cause you're the one who has gone off the deep end if you think that those damn a/f gauges actually work. Tell me how it could possibly work halfway well? It uses a stock O2 sensor (which is a 1v sensor). The widebands (depending on type) are about 5v sensors. If you hook an a/f gauge up to a wideband sensor then that'd be cool.

 

Umm.. speaking from personal experience my narrow band sensor previously didn't seem to be "that bad" honestly. I was running a J&S w/ the dual monitor and it was pretty damn close to the wideband. Now would I trust it to tune, no, but it was close, so maybe it just depends.

You can't hook an a/f gauge straight to a w/b sensor. I'll assume you meant to the wb controller, but then this is how wideband displays usually work.

-Mike

 

2 bar.

 

I actually was being pretty condescending about hooking up the a/f gauge to the wideband. Why would you want to? If you've got a a/f gauge in your car and happen to be watching it when your engine runs lean...by the time you notice it and back off the throttle the damage has been done. Those retarded gauges are mearly a history report, and a bad one at that.

 

autometer a/f gauge=pretty little lights at night time...
fjo a/f gauge...........= proper way to tune...
oh yeah, techedge is ok..
To get back to the main question...Yes, u will be plenty safe at 7-8 psi....When I used the blue box w/ my 99 integra (b18b)..Boost was set at 10 psi with only using the blue box and the 310 cc injectors and my a/f was at 11.5....Hope this helps..

 

thanks 99lspwr, I might try 10 if I goto the strip, but otherwise I will keep it at like 8.

 

Why does everybody hate on the Autometer A/F gauges. They do just fine when you tune at WOT. I have two friends that have tuned their cars off of their widebands and then went to colleti a local dyno and they were just a tad off on the A/F. Thing is you just need to tune it at WOT so that the ECU doesn't mess with the fuel any. I'm not sure why you guys are having so much problems tuning off of the autometer gauges. Buying a damn Wideband 02 sensor would be like a third of the cost of my setup. I'm just trying to give experience to others so that they can have more options instead of the regular "uhh get a wideband dude"

BTW: only problems that would make them off is if you had a shitty 02 sensor that was on it's last leg. And for some reason i don't think a 99' will have that problem.....

 

8-9 is good to go

 

I actually don't even think if you're turbo'd or supercharged you should even bother with an a/f gauge. Man, my EGT gauge was a lot better indicator than the lousy a/f gauge I had.

Gauges you should consider getting if you only have X gauges:
2: Boost and EGT
3: Boost, EGT, and oil pressure
4: Boost, EGT, oil pressure, water temp (this is why so many people don't understand the value of upgrading their cooling system).

Lastly, if you must be a ricer and have more than 3-4 gauges...

The 5th gauge should be non other than a N02 pressure gauge! Cause if you have the need to monitor all that stuff then you'll probably be having the need for N02. lol Heaven forbid you have a 6th gauge... but if so then you should get nothing other than a tire pressure gauge! lol

Oh yeah... I listed the gauges in the order of importance because if you're going turbo and you decide to tune your car with a lousy FMU and mild oversized injectors then you'd be wise to start saving your money on a new engine.

I hope everyone realizes the importance of having you turbo'd or sc'd car dyno tuned. Not only that but having a respectable way to control everything. I'd say Hondata is by far the most affordable, and if you're "bling bling" and into euro tails with dual exhaust on your 4cyl... then pick up the AEM EMS cause its costs a grip to tune it.

Jason (the creator of the AEM EMS) says there are only 3 other people in the nation besides him who are pros at tuning with the AEM. Shawn at Torque Freaks in Portland, OR is one. Find the other 2 and settle for no less than them if you go with the AEM.

BTW... on a stock B series block I would highly recommend no more than 8psi. That is unless you're loaded and don't really care about how hard it is to get B series engines anymore.

 

i run 1 bar on a stock b16a..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uoboarder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW... on a stock B series block I would highly recommend no more than 8psi. That is unless you're loaded and don't really care about how hard it is to get B series engines anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, There are a lot of ppl running high boost on the B series because their internals can handle up to 300hp compared to the D series 210 or so hp internals. however just think how much it would cost to replace a B16 or B18. Keep the boost low

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del_Slowest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Same here, There are a lot of ppl running high boost on the B series because their internals can handle up to 300hp compared to the D series 210 or so hp internals. however just think how much it would cost to replace a B16 or B18. Keep the boost low </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can find b16a blocks for $250 all day...complete

 

Umm.. sorry but I completely disagree w/ you. A/F is much more important that EGT, I think most people would agree w/ me. You said an a/f gauge is a history report? Of course it is, what do you think EGT's are..??

You said in your previous post that there's no point in having an a/f gauge like an autometer because it's too late if it goes lean..? That's nonsense, sorry. Do people think our motors are that weak that all it takes is for a motor to go slightly lean once and it'll blow up..?? Yes, it CAN blow up but it's definetly not always, and it depends on alot of other things. If it happens once and you noticed it went a little lean, you know to add more fuel or check to see if something's wrong.

EGT's are much less reliable than a/f. #1 it's slower, #2, you can't judge a/f w/ EGT, and you can't compare EGT's from different cars easily. Btw, for the so called ricers (I guess I'm a ricer), a fuel pressure gauge and oil temp gauge are sure nice to have as well. They're nice to stash away in the glove box so they're not in your face all the time.

Boost on a stock block is fine, just make sure you pull timing and have fuel and you'll be fine. People have made plenty of power on stock blocks.

-Mike

 

Ya, people definetly "hate" on the autometer a/f gauge too much. I sure wouldn't suggest using it for tuning under WOT. What you should do is buy one between a couple friends and trade off to tune your cars if you don't have the $. Like I said before, the autometer a/f gauge is a good gauge to say whether something is wrong/out of the ordinary or not. For the price it's not a bad investment, I personally just can't stand the design of it.

-Mike

 

Again...The autometer a/f gauge is Completeley 100% worthless....The whole point of having a a/f gauge is too????????????correct, monitor the a/f ratio...The narrowband autometer has no way of properly determining the a/f ratio...Some people say its better than nothing...well a couple of pretty little lights is not better than nothing imo for the $$$$. You might as well buy a chrome oil cap or apc strut bar or something..These will give you the same accuracy for the a/f as the autometer gauge would....