I just went from VAFC to EMS on a boosted H22 motor.

I adjusted my idle using the bolt on throttle body because it was too low. (Incresed idle from 300RPM to 1100RPM.) after weather got warm.

Now under boost, I'm running rich as hell (fuel can be seen on crossmember where wastegate dump tube ends) and can't seem to make any power and car bogs under boost, hesistates like a ****...

Does changing the idle manually using bolt - causes changes in the map that will make it run rich under boost?

 

there's no reason to touch the idle screw when you can change the idle values directly with the ems.

you should absorb as much info as you can from the aem forums. plus there are a couple of good h22 calibrations to start out with on there if you search.

it doesn't make any sense as to why adjusting the idle would make the car run rich under boost. it all in your fuel map and fuel trims.

 

your ems is untuned

 

it was tuned conservatively at 35 degrees about 3 weeks ago, weather got really warm this past weekend and idle would stall out, so I adjusted it. mmm..time to visit an EMS expert

 

i would return the idle screw back to the stock settings, and correctly adjust your idle within the aem software, temperature differences, if tuned properly, should not affect the way the car idles...

 

Finally found the problem guys, manifold cracked where wastegate connects...too much vibration and heavy wastegate.

Where and how should i further reinforce? The wastegate tube has been braced to the manifold (see black drawing in pic) How should i reinforce next...brace wastegate head to block...?

Suggestions are appreciated:

 

Oh geez... ur gonna get hounded for buying a spark racing manifold Shoulda never got it

 

Basically you want to brace it where the most vibration will occur (at the wastegate neck ). I would brace the baseplate of the WG to the closest solid object (block I would suspect).

Also, no matter what the H-T Spark mani haters say. Stick with the mani, as long as you have it braced right

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VNTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh geez... ur gonna get hounded for buying a spark racing manifold Shoulda never got it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, that's an INNOVATIVE Manifold. Big Boku Bucks

It's funny how when people see a manifold that's shaped like a Sparks manifold/Ebay Manifold, they'll automatically assume that it's a Spark/SSAutochrome manifold!!

The reason why it cracked ... the wastegate is monsterous! You need to get a brace attached to the wastegate itself and the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BG Boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Um, that's an INNOVATIVE Manifold. Big Boku Bucks

It's funny how when people see a manifold that's shaped like a Sparks manifold/Ebay Manifold, they'll automatically assume that it's a Spark/SSAutochrome manifold!!

The reason why it cracked ... the wastegate is monsterous! You need to get a brace attached to the wastegate itself and the block.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry BG, we don't usually see the Innovative floating around H-T The last one I saw was on Steph's FWD coupe (ballers ). And yeah, that WG is most definately a monster. He must be running big boost eh?

 

If your running richer in hotter weather you need to look at the intake air temp correction map in the ems software.. You also set the idle screw and keep it there.. All other idle tuning is done on the idle % map or something like that..

Have you tuned your car or had it tuned.. They should have adjusted it for you if you had it done somewhere..