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Hello I have a b16 built bottom end and gsr head boosted made 550 HP my issue is when I drive it the it will start to run hot it will first set the oil light witch I also have an oil gauge then it will set the check engine light then the temp starts climbing I haven't ever overheated it I will just pull of and wait I thought it was a head gasket so I changed it and while it was off I sent it to get tested the only thing I can think of is the oil getting to hot has anyone had or is having this issue

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The oil light on the dash has 0 to do with oil temperature. That only comes on when oil pressure hits 0psi but by then it's too late.

Street driving unless you drive like a total jackass 100% of the time wide open then the oil temperature won't get hot enough. Again the temp gauge on the dash is coolant temperature, nothing even remotely related to oil temperature.

What do you mean by oil gauge? there's more than one kind.

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I'm tuned on the s300 system and I fully understand that the oil light has nothing to do with the coolant and I have a manual oil pressure gauge that is t to the factory oil pressure sensor. I don't drive it that often but when I do for more then 30 minutes the oil light will light up then the temperature will climb I have in the hondata after 220° the check engine light will light up then I have to pull off the side and wait for it to cool off I'm just confused about the issue I run 15w40 rotella oil I also pull the motor every winter and go thru the motor checking bearings everything looks good everytime

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If the oil indicator lights up that means you've lost all I oil pressure. So what you're describing makes less than no sense.

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Ok maybe the factory oil sensor is bad but my issue is that it will start to get hot and would over heat if I don't shut it off

LTCxD2B

A lot of things can cause a car to over heat

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You replaced the head gasket without doing any diagnostics? You overhaul the motor every winter, even though nothing's wrong with it? I need some parts, if you ever decide you want a new avenue to throw your money away on.

Stop. Do some basic diagnostics. You say you have an oil pressure gauge. When the oil light comes on, what does your gauge read? Before you jumped straight to replacing the head gasket, did you do a block test? Compression test? ANY tests at all? Have you checked your thermostat? Radiator fan?

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Yes I have done a lot of diagnosis and the reason for doing the head gasket is because at full boost my head would lift only at the track and yes I did do a compression test leak down test had the head tested for cracks I also checked the thermostat for proper operation of course I checked the fan I have it on a switch in the center council remember its a crx with very little room also when the oil light does come on the gauge doesn't change at all the only thing I can think of is the exhaust down pipe being right next to the aluminum radiator and I pull the motor every winter to go thru it so I don't have any major issues that I can catch before it's to late I do all of my own work so unless I have to take it to the machine shop I do it myself also when I do go thru the motor I'm not replacing the major parts unless there is an issue

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Here is a few pictures of the crx and engine bay there's no room for air to move and how I have to have the down pipe and waste gate

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You have the radiator making direct contact with your manifold, and you're wondering what the problem is? Dude, that **** isn't supposed to touch.

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Yea I know I don't really have the room and I'm not able to find a radiator that's going to fit

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Do this.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

you need to move the radiator....

not only do you have the dumptube and turbine housing/downpipe very near/touching the radiator but you have an exposed runner physically touching the radiator. you've basically made a direct path for 1600F+ exhaust gasses to radiate their heat directly into the engine coolant. Also since the manifold runner surface temps can easily exceed the melting point of 6061 T6 Aluminum (1080F-1205F depending on purity, etc) I'm amazed you literally haven't melted a hole in your radiator by now

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Look at the runner. He's already melted a bit of the radiator off, and it's stuck to the runner.

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True I will pull it after work and try another way of mounting it I will repost after that