sp00led

I've got about 20k miles on my setup. I finally got all the little quirks worked out so I've actually been truly daily driving it for the last 2 months (4k miles in 8 weeks).

This past weekend I was replacing the air filter and noticed it had about 2-3mm of what I assume is shaft play when I pushed/pulled on the wheel.

Felt great all week and this morning. I went to pass someone on the way home and heard a faint noise and noticed it wouldn't spool. Not even 0-1psi.

The wheel won't spin by hand

Guess this is my excuse to get the GTX3076R!

Any idea the average life span of the GT ball bearing turbos?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You confirm the wheels are no good? Maybe the housing bolts came loose? Just trying to shed a glimmer of hope hahahah

sp00led

Im going to pull it off this weekend. It's a full race ac bottom mount so it's pita to remove. All I did was try and move the wheel by hand. It would barely spin a partial rotation counterclockwise.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Maybe it's not damaged see if the bolts for the housings came loose

m3tech95

You really wont know what happened until you remove the turbo man....you couldve easily sucked up a vacuum hose and find it in your intercooler core like I did lol....If you cant spin the compressor wheel freely thats not a good sign....take a few snapshots and post them in this thread... might help to find out what exactly happened. Otherwise if it remains a mystery it could likely happen again on the new turbo which you def dont want..

SovXietday

Ehhh if the bolts came loose the only way they'd keep the wheel from spinning is by contacting the blades. That's not any better. :/

sp00led

The compressor side housing bolts/clamp aren't loose. From what I can see of the compressor wheel it doesn't look chipped or damaged. Of course I may not not be able to see any damaged area because of the housing from what I read in other threads.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/garrett-chra-exchange-program-gt35r-2958967/
This thread gives me hope. I'd be happy to pay $450 for an exchanged CHRA.

It's times like these I wish that top mount manifolds were out back in 07' when I built this car. Not much room to fit your hands let alone turn a wrench... I hope to have it out and post pics over the weekend.

sp00led

First thing I noticed was that the oil return looked a little to dry. However once i took the oil feed off it looked like it wasn't plugged or a dry feed line like I suspected. Then I took the oil return fitting off the CHRA and noticed it plugged up with a plastic looking ball bearing holder and a few bb's fell out.

prsxr88

woah, looks like it all heated up. you said the feed was wet?

also, may be a silly ? but were you using the water lines?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

ouch!

sorry buddy

per4mance

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about that Lee. Hit me up if you need some assistance

1quick-teg

Sucks to hear man....I had the oil line get clogged on my 3076r, ran dry started spitting out bearings.....I know your pain lol.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You should be able to get a discount through the exchange program, even with a bad cartridge, as long as the wheels and housing are good. You may want to try that approach. We've done that before and it was less than a newer unit or even a replacement Precision.

sp00led

I was using the water lines. The feed line is a -3an and it has oil dripping out of it. The return is -10an. The CHRA looked wet where the feed was connected. I'm wondering if I need to somehow install a gauge to confirm that it is getting good pressure at the end of the line. The Garrett dealer may also be able to shed some light on why it failed.

Fingers crossed for that $450 exchange program.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

They won't give any diagnosis when you exchange. if you didn't have the additional .030" restrictor on it, or the cartridge was clocked at an angel > 20* from vertical, it could have caused it to not be lubricated properly, heat transfered from the turbine housing into the cartridge, and fried the bearings. Even water wouldn't have been able to solve that issue, since you were literally seeing ball-bearings fall out of the drain of the cartridge. that could easily mean that the turbine shaft heated and warped enough to cause the ball-bearings to fall out if its carrier and go bye-bye..

since the housings are still intact, I think you should be able to qualify for the exchange.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I really want to see you upgrade to the GTX

sp00led

I know... I really want to go that route myself but the penny pincher in me says to take the $450 fix and skip the more expensive upgrade.

Who knows, if I get wind of a bonus at work I may end up putting the repaired GT30R on the s2000 and break the bank for the GTX3076R.

The s2000 is going to have me driving to Jacksonville, FL to see MASE for a tune in the spring anyways. I've been thinking about throwing in one of those new in tank 340lph pumps on the integra and turning up the fuel pressure on my ID1000s to run e85. 650whp in the teg would make for some fun summer highway racing.

1quick-teg

Where did you call for this exchange? I called a place in Tampa and they said all they can do is use my core for $250 off a new turbo...forget that I'd rather have it rebuilt.

sp00led

Mike @ Turbo Direct in AZ.
3581 W. Electra Lane
Glendale, AZ 85310
(623) 376-2562
info@turbosdirect.com
http://www.turbosdirect.com

I just shipped my turbo and it will be there on Thursday. He said a sales person will call me back once they inspect it and confirm it is eligible for replacement.

1quick-teg

Thanks alot..I'll give it a shot....

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

How much power did you make with this turbo anyways?

sp00led

505whp on a dyno dynamics which I've seen read about 13% lower than my local dynojet.

So I got the badnews on Friday and I'm trying to convince myself to spend $1400. The CHRA on my GT30R is a total loss. The housings can be reused after they are cleaned up I'm told. It was starved of oil and it took out both the wheels. Luckily all the bearings were accounted for counting the 3 that fell out. I was offered a new CHRA for $725 or I can purchase the GTX3076R and reuse my old turbin housing.

So unfortunately I have a mystery on my hands and until I get that solved I'm going to be nervous to put a $1400 turbo back on it. I'm buying a -3AN to 1/8 NPT adapter for an oil pressure gauge this week. Once I get that hooked up to the feed line I'm assuming I will see extremely low if any oil pressure. I'm not really sure what's causing it as I'm using oil pressure sender block fitting that came with my first XS Engineering turbo kit. It's brass and similar to the one below. I'm not really sure how that could of failed.

sp00led

I put a oil pressure gauge on my -3AN oil feed line. Since I didn't have an exhaust manifold on I didn't run it very long. Car built 80psi pressure within a few seconds and we noticed the -3AN feed got up to 60psi until I shut it down.

Looks like my oil feed line is good. I'm going to drop the pan to just look around and play it safe. What a mystery... Looks like I'm going to go the cheap route as I can't roll the dice that it won't happen again with a $1400 turbo.