how much lbs do u torque them at?

 

preludes u have to remove the cams..

 

yeah that definantly wouldn't be much fun for those who need to replace HG's or tear their motor down often.

 

I torqued mine at 70 ft/lb with moly lube

stan

 

i normally like to do things by the book/rules cause working with expensive parts and having something go wrong cause the instructions weren't followed really sucks.

BUT i didn't re-torque my ARP headstuds after i installed my head/motor last May.
i torqued them to 70#, and i think i did the strech method with the lube but that's it. i never went back and removed the cams to re-torque the nuts. 22K later and still no problems. although when i put the motor back together or build a new motor i'm going to follow the instructions perfectly just to be sure. removing the belt and cams isn't so bad really. most of us are just lazy.

 

My instructions said to torque to 65ft/lb with an aluminum head...

 

yes i believe the instructions i had said the same thing, but i did closer to 70# for the added strength. i can't remember if i did 68# or 70# cause it's been awhile.

 

"i normally like to do things by the book/rules cause working with expensive parts and having something go wrong cause the instructions weren't followed really sucks.
BUT i didn't re-torque my ARP headstuds after i installed my head/motor last May.
i torqued them to 70#, and i think i did the strech method with the lube but that's it. i never went back and removed the cams to re-torque the nuts. 22K later and still no problems. although when i put the motor back together or build a new motor i'm going to follow the instructions perfectly just to be sure. removing the belt and cams isn't so bad really. most of us are just lazy. "


Well my mech said basically on all the FI cars theyve done (id assume mostly b series) when he has done ARP's hes never retorqued them and has heard of no probs. What kind acar/engine u got?


[Modified by MordecaiPSI, 3:51 AM 2/28/2003]

 

i torqued my GSR to 80 lbs. and have no problems yet (knock on wood). I've been street tuning all week, about 15 psi. and no problems with over heating. I put about 900 miles on the motor so far.

 

B18C1, built for and used with N2O injection. i went through 11 or 12 bottles last year and put 22K miles on the motor, no problems with torquing the ARP's to 70# and not re-torquing them ever.

but on my next setup for turbo i'm going to go back and do this to be sure.

 

Well **** me..that might explain my problem. Ive got a small bit of seepage at the front corner from the headgasket(thick *** cometic) and I never retorqued my ARP's . Just rebuilt it like 2500 miles ago. I am going to retorque them today so I will get back to you on how it turns out.

 

No in my case they did not need to be re-torqued

 

I retorqued mine. Just for peace of mind. Set the wrench at 70 with moly, then went 2k miles and retorqued to 73.
These were ARP studs that have been used prior to the motor assembly.

 

So, is the standard agreement that 70ft/lb is ok even with our aluminum heads?

 

I torqued mine originally at 63 lb/ft with moly lube, but again, I am getting 2 different answers as far as the torque specs, once and 62 and 82. I just kinda find a median in between to 70lb/ft of torque when I re-torque mine after 1000 miles

I drove mine for 12K miles now, NEVER LEAKED...

stan

 

Its always safe insurance to retorque.

When my motor was assembled torque was set at 80ft lbs with ARP's and moly lube.

After about 50 dragstrip passes I went to recheck the torque and some were as low as 50ft lbs...

There is no harm in retorquing, I recommend it...

Dave

 

the ARP spec sheet said 65# for the headstuds, but i did about 70#. that was stock sleeves/Cometic OEM size HG (thickness/bore).

if you use a GE sleeved block that's step-decked or O-ringed, i believe that they recommend around 80# and also to use copper seal to help seal the HG fully. then of course you still need to go back and retorque the headstud nuts after they're heat cycled etc. different setups sometimes need different torque specs.
often times it doesn't hurt to torque them a few # more than recommended for the average buildup, considering that most setups that use the ARP headstuds are N2O injected or turbocharged.

either way it's a good idea to go back and retorque them. which is what i'll be doing from now on.

 

just bite the bullet and retorque the head, i had to do this for our race mustangs quite often and that requires alot more work like pushrods, vavletrian, tdc for each cylinder and then a valve adj.. the honda head is simple to retorque just put the bottom to tdc on #1 and have at it, just remember to use the dowel holes for t e cams and it will be a whole lot easier just do 70lbs w/ moly i just did my two honda heads last week and i am about to retorque my cylinder head as well... slo they are raping you for 400+ for this job it should be in the two hundo range???