plan on just running 8psi as a daily driver. any reccomendations on rings/bearings. i will be using oem pistons, rods, top end. any links would help as well.

also im not sure what turbo i would get the best results at. i have a .42 .48 t3 im running on my d16 turbo but im sure i will get better results out of something bigger. maybe 60-1? t3/t4? what are you people using.

 

is clinton corners up by albany? or over in dutchess county area? pm me if u want some help

 

your not really rebuilding it for boost if your using stock pistons and rods. Your just rebuilding it. Def get some forged pistons or save up for them.

 

Wiseco forged pistons - $450
Eagle h-beams - $300
ACL bearings - $100
ARP headstuds - $100
OEM headgasket - $50
Bore and hone - $100
------
TOTAL: $1100 + Assembly(do it yourself!)

I wouldn't rebuild an engine for boost using stock rods and pistons. The rods are like toothpicks, and the rod bolts are very weak. The pistons are cast, and can't withstand high temperatures.. one mistake and you're f'd.

If you're going to rebuild it, rebuild it FOR boost-- you won't regret it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is clinton corners up by albany? or over in dutchess county area? pm me if u want some help</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah its in dutchess county about an hour south of albany 30 mins north of poughkeepsie.

 

oh ok so its like out the red hook germantown area..

honestly, if you know you are gonna boost, and rebuilding the motor, its really only like 800-900 dollars for pistons/rods/headstuds. bearings and gaskets cant be factored in, because you have to buy the mregardless of which build you do

 

well id rather just get an hmotors b16 for the $800 id be paying for internals so i think i might just do an oem build and run no more then 8psi tuned with chrome, dsm 450s, fmic, etc....

also i see you had a boosted b18b getting 238whp at 10psi, what setup was that with (internals, management, etc.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wiseco forged pistons - $450
Eagle h-beams - $300
ACL bearings - $100
ARP headstuds - $100
OEM headgasket - $50
Bore and hone - $100
------
TOTAL: $1100 + Assembly(do it yourself!)

I wouldn't rebuild an engine for boost using stock rods and pistons. The rods are like toothpicks, and the rod bolts are very weak. The pistons are cast, and can't withstand high temperatures.. one mistake and you're f'd.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah all that stuff may be true...however he's only going to run 8psi, meaning that he won't be making super high hp #'s....
i woulnd't say it's necessary to rebuild using forged internals unless you have $1100+ just laying around somewhere, or u plan on making a lot of hp. I think we've all seen the thread proving just how much stock blocks can hold on a good tune.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1478127

i'm not saying that upgrading internals is a bad thing, just that it may not be necessary for your setup. good to have for piece of mind tho b/c like ccvic said...one mistake and you're f'd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJxr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well id rather just get an hmotors b16 for the $800 id be paying for internals so i think i might just do an oem build and run no more then 8psi tuned with chrome, dsm 450s, fmic, etc....

also i see you had a boosted b18b getting 238whp at 10psi, what setup was that with (internals, management, etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lets see. A stock B16 will be safe to about 280-300 WHP, net you practically zero torque, and be less fun to drive than an LS motor. Your LS with pistons/rods will be safe to over 400 WHP and make a shitpot more torque than the B16. I don't know why you'd choose a B16 over an LS motor, but whatever floats your tuna boat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboEGhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. I don't know why you'd choose a B16 over an LS motor, but whatever floats your tuna boat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dunno man, boost+vtec is super fun, then again so is peak tq at 4500 at over 200wtq. its all about what you are looking for. ive had both, and id personally take the vtec (though it was an lsvtec, so more tq than a b16)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJxr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also i see you had a boosted b18b getting 238whp at 10psi, what setup was that with (internals, management, etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

totally stock motor, 200k miles, log manifold, 57 trim t3t4, uberdata-street tuned on my lm-1 numerous times, walbro 255. the setup had rc440's, dsm 450's and correctinject 550's over the course of its life. i can get you more info if you'd like, just pm me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wiseco forged pistons - $450
Eagle h-beams - $300
ACL bearings - $100
ARP headstuds - $100
OEM headgasket - $50
Bore and hone - $100
------
TOTAL: $1100 + Assembly(do it yourself!)

I wouldn't rebuild an engine for boost using stock rods and pistons. The rods are like toothpicks, and the rod bolts are very weak. The pistons are cast, and can't withstand high temperatures.. one mistake and you're f'd.

If you're going to rebuild it, rebuild it FOR boost-- you won't regret it.</TD></TR></TABLE>That was the same setup I did in my old LS-t hatch. There is no logical reason on putting back stock parts when aftermarket ones are WAY better in quality and durability wise. Save yourself money and HEADACHES by opting for better pistons, rods, etc. instead of OEM Honda parts.