<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch.
what kind of break in method am i looking at with new rings and this new ACT clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That clutch dosnt need to be broken in becauses its a cerama mettalic style you can dump it straight out the driveway.

Also I see where both sides can argue about running hard or easy for break in. Personally after I let it idle for about 20 min with lightweight oil in it I will change the oil with still lightweight no-synth. and go for a drive I dont immidiatly start doing pulls. I will put a few easy miles on it maybe like 5-10 or so then give it a nice easy 1/2-3/4 pull but not all the way to redline just about 5000-5500 rpm and then drive easy for a few more miles then another short somewhat easy pull and so on for around 75-100miles. This works good for me.


Modified by 30psi Teg at 11:32 AM 1/8/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeMAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Basic Concepts:

The cylinders after a fresh hone can only keep the "roughness" for so long, and this is what shapes the rings (think of it as sanding them down). If you are too gentle the walls of the cylinders will be too smooth to properly wear-in or "sand down" the ring to fit and you wont get a good seal.

Hope that helps,
mike</TD></TR></TABLE>

what would help lol would be tell me what you do or what you did. lol

 

Do a search. This was covered numerous times and the "pros" you speak about have all commented in a thread or two regarding this. I will be breaking mine in the "hard way"

-Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what would help lol would be tell me what you do or what you did. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Beat the **** out of it is what i did

mike

 

now it makes a lot of sense
i beleive that site now

my buddy that owns a shop... and has 2 ITR's on the SCCA told me he doesnt beleives in breka in periods... thats why he rans it hard on the first 20 miles and be done with it

and also the engine rebuild book.. says to breka in the motor to make 10 hard acceleration from 20-50 pmh at WOT to load the pistons and break the engine in...

i say that page is correct!!!!!

 

oh ok. so basically aftger i assemble the motor together i should:

1. crank motor and let it idle untill it warms up to normal operating temp.
2. then drive the car for about 20 miles
3. change the oil and filter (to remove any metal particale that happen fro the new rings to cylinder walls contact)
4. after oil and filter has been changed then start beating the **** out of it.
5. change oil and filter again after about 100 miles

sound about right?

 

We break ours in on the dyno at 10K rpm. I'm sure thare are 10 different ideas on break in and all of them will work good. Just don't run way to fat and glaze the walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok. so basically aftger i assemble the motor together i should:

1. crank motor and let it idle untill it warms up to normal operating temp.
2. then drive the car for about 20 miles
3. change the oil and filter (to remove any metal particale that happen fro the new rings to cylinder walls contact)
4. after oil and filter has been changed then start beating the **** out of it.
5. change oil and filter again after about 100 miles

sound about right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Almost, however I dont know about beating the **** out of it, ease into it lovingly first then work your way up pounding the **** out of it.

 

oh ok then gradually beat the **** out of it lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok then gradually beat the **** out of it lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly

 

LOL!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Crow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't have to break in a puck clutch. Breaking a car in hard is the only way to go. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, you do. Clutchmasters tells you to, so does RPS/HPF for the supra guys.

I recommend the break in procedure from the mototune site. We have had great luck with it in many of the motors we have built.

 

break in is over rated. wot to redline within first couple miles no problem here solid compression no burning oil

 

so are you guys saying it's bad to go easy on the car? I just installed new pistons rings and pistons and I've gone about 700 miles, runing the car kinda hard..hit vtec a few times but for the most part i take it easy..do you think I did something wrong?

 

I've built several engines both for work and at home and I've never broken in one at wot only, nor have I just babied them around. The problem with some of the break in techniques out there right now is that they're for domestic style rings produced for cast iron V8s. The new rings, especially soft import rings seat fast with a smaller window for screw ups. If they haven't seated well in the first 20 miles or so, they probably never will. The trick is to load them, then bathe them with oil and pull a heavy vacuum on them as well as heat cycling. Here goes, start the car and let it warm up for about a minute, checking timing, for leaks, etc.. then go cruising, never keep it at a steady rpm for any long period of time, when it comes up to temp, make a full throttle 3rd gear(if room allows) pass up to red line then let off the throttle but leave the trans in gear and let the engine brake itself back down to about 2k. Do that about 4 more times, then park the car and let it cool completely down, then go repeat. When you come back, let it cool completely down, retorque the head, adjust the valves again, and repeat. After that, I consider one ready to beat on. I also readjust the valves and retorque the head again at 1000 miles for a street car.

 

do i have to take my turbo off to break in? or can i break in with boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to take my turbo off to break in? or can i break in with boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i have to take my turbo off to break in? or can i break in with boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If thats what the car was built for, break it in with boost. not like 15 lbs, but stay conservative.