Nextelbuddy

new pistons and rods going in soon, and i was searchig for proper breakin method. came across this page. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
i am confused as to what to beleive. anyone got any advice? how do yo guys break in your motor the proper way?

5thgencivic

You will get mixed opinions on this, as with anything. I used that way to break in my motor, and I feel I made the right decision. In my opinion the rings should be seated as soon as possible...

Nextelbuddy

i just want to make the right decision. i dont want to tear the motor back down to rehone an get over sized pistons if id do this the wrong way.

also i dont really understand that method that is mentioned on that website. could someone break it down in really simple 5 year old terms lol

Solless16

id go safely around 500miles on break in to let rings set , but many people say after 5min of driving there set

5thgencivic

We started my car up, let it idle for about 10 minutes. changed the oil and filter. Took it out for a spin. Did a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls starting at about 3500 and letting the motor slow the car down.. Repeated that all the way up to around 5500 or so in 500rpm incriments, then drove the car normal and have been beating it since

Nextelbuddy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgencivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Did a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls starting at about 3500 and letting the motor slow the car down.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

u did a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls starting at about 3500 RPMS? where did u stop though? lol if u started at 3500 what rpms did u take it up to to let the motor slow down on its own. also when you say "PULL" do u define a PULL as gettin on it? what do u define as PULL?

5thgencivic

I stopped the "pull" at 3500rpms. First few times I went easy on it up to that rpm(partial throttle). Then let it slow down on its own without hitting the brakes. After that went to 4000, then 4500 and so on. Last few times, I went WOT up to the desired rpm. get it now?

Nextelbuddy

oh ok so u meant u stopped the PULL at 3500 rpms? ok i get it now.

so u did a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls up to about 3500 rpms and then from 3500 RPMs you let the car slow donw withouth brakes but by letting themotor rev down on its own. and then you did similar pulls incresing the RPM incriments fom 3500 althe way to WOT by 500 RPM incriments.

about hopw long total did your method of breaking in teh motor take? days? weeks? min? lol

BodyKits NW

That method works. Have done it quite a few times.

Ri5e

Same here, the engine will be properly broken in within 30 mins.

I still don't understand why people granny drive the car for 1,000 miles to "break it in" ....

Ca$h

Same here, best way I've tried so far. Definitely helps putting a load on the rings really quickly. I had better results doing that than by babying it.

Nextelbuddy

thanx guys.

bump for morning crew i need for info from other people

Code Blue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That method works. Have done it quite a few times. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i remember when you drove the car for 10 miles then threw it on the dyno

my question...is what happens if you have a new clutch install as well?

Nextelbuddy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Code Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i remember when you drove the car for 10 miles then threw it on the dyno

my question...is what happens if you have a new clutch install as well?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly............. when i put my new pistons and rods in im putting in a new ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch aong with ACT pressure plate at the same time. so that means i need to break in my motor along with clutch as well. since i will have to break in clutch at the same time i guess i will have to use the GRANNY method or teh 500-1000 miles break in method.

any suggestions about this?

The Crow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

exactly............. when i put my new pistons and rods in im putting in a new ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch aong with ACT pressure plate at the same time. so that means i need to break in my motor along with clutch as well. since i will have to break in clutch at the same time i guess i will have to use the GRANNY method or teh 500-1000 miles break in method.

any suggestions about this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to break in a puck clutch. Breaking a car in hard is the only way to go.

30psi Teg

Yea but with new bearings you should put a few unabused miles on them so they break in properly. Mainly you need to keep out of high RPM's but after the car Idles for about 20min then you drive it for 20 the rings should be broken in. That is if it is a fresh bore.

Code Blue

hmm so basically start it up for at least 20 minutes (wont be a problem because i have to bleed the brakes,clutch, and add coolant and bleed the air out) drive it for maybe 20 miles then give it the rought break in?

rays my clutch coming in is a 6 puck:

Nextelbuddy

ok heres my setup maybe someone can look at it and tell me what break in method i should use.

2001 b18c1 40,000 miles total compression test - 210 210 210 210
new pistons and rods with new rings going in. resusing stock rod bearings (they a should still be good.

ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch.

since my compression is still pretty high 210 accross board then my cylinder walls should still be good shape.

what kind of break in method am i looking at with new rings and this new ACT clutch?

green_GSR

The whole point of motor break-in is to seat the rings. So the key is to let the engine run at different rpms and at different loads. I also believe that babying your motor (ie. no vtec for the first 1000miles) is actually healthy. However, I also don't believe that redlining the motor for 15 mins and consecutive WOT runs are healthy for the motor either. Acutally, the method I used is what Larry @ ENDYN suggested. It seems to work just fine for me. One suggestion I have is to change the oil frequently. Fresh oil never hurts.

Nextelbuddy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Acutally, the method I used is what Larry @ ENDYN suggested. It seems to work just fine for me. One suggestion I have is to change the oil frequently. Fresh oil never hurts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and what would that method be??

5thgencivic

Some say to change the oil right away after idleing it for a bit, then leave it for like 1,000 miles just so the motor has "used" oil in it. Which is what I'm doing. nextelbuddy, sorry for the confusion. What I meant to say is I started the breakin process with a 3500rpm pull..
I replaced my clutch with an act as well. It's a street disc though, but I don't think I've ever fully broken in a clutch, before beating on it Pucks can be slipped for breakin and the street disc is around 200-300 miles per ACT or something like that. My $.02 nothing more.

Nate

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

damnnnnn thats some scary *****!

it has me thinking now.
where are the engine buolders or turbo gurus of this site. I want to see what they have to say. Art?, EARL, geoFF, ImportReview, Sonny, b18bturbo, VTC_CiViC, lauzera, ect..... all comments welcomed!

also what is the difference in breaking in METHODS for OEM piston/ring vs FORGED.......

Nextelbuddy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damnnnnn thats some scary *****!

it has me thinking now.
where are the engine buolders or turbo gurus of this site. I want to see what they have to say. Art?, EARL, geoFF, ImportReview, Sonny, b18bturbo, VTC_CiViC, lauzera, ect..... all comments welcomed!

also what is the difference in breaking in METHODS for OEM piston/ring vs FORGED....... </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i want to know. what are some of the PROS in here doing as far as break in method?

snoochtodanooch

you also have to remember, that site you were looking at was dealing extensively with motorcycles. Much higher compression, different beasts. I think that the Car should be warmed up, with non-sythetic oil, driven easy for at least 25 or 30 miles, driven hard but not super agressive, maybe 5800 if the engine has a 8000 rpm redline, through a series of runs. Then just drive her home, treat her nice, and pray for the best. I don't buy that website guy's idea of killing it quickly. It just seems kinda infomercialleeeee

MikeMAN

Basic Concepts:

The cylinders after a fresh hone can only keep the "roughness" for so long, and this is what shapes the rings (think of it as sanding them down). If you are too gentle the walls of the cylinders will be too smooth to properly wear-in or "sand down" the ring to fit and you wont get a good seal.

Hope that helps,
mike