re:
I just installed and tuned my jrsc in my 1999 si. It runs great and is really fun to drive. I'm just concerened with the high engine bay temps. My radiator fan runs 24/7 right now but the temp needle remains in the normal position. What do you guys recommend to cool the engine bay? Wrap the header, put a larger fan on the rad, 160 degree thermostat?
Modified by crx00 at 3:26 AM 6/3/2007
Modified by crx00 at 3:26 AM 6/3/2007
I used some 1800F ceramic insulation and stainless wire to hold it on, but thats just for a DD sohc setup. Get some fiberglass or ceramic wrap and cover your header up. You may also want to look into flushing your coolant system, and maybe replacing the radiator. Its not uncommon for aluminum radiators to be eaten away, especially if you use tap water in your 50/50 coolant mix.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not uncommon for aluminum radiators to be eaten away, especially if you use tap water in your 50/50 coolant mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your radiator is being eaten away, so is your head and block.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode
Magnesium plug somewhere in the cooling system FTW.
If your radiator is being eaten away, so is your head and block.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode
Magnesium plug somewhere in the cooling system FTW.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not uncommon for aluminum radiators to be eaten away, especially if you use tap water in your 50/50 coolant mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The corrosion comes from using dissimilar block/radiator metals. The only disadvantage of using tap water is that it leaves behind mineral deposits.
The corrosion comes from using dissimilar block/radiator metals. The only disadvantage of using tap water is that it leaves behind mineral deposits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Magnesium plug somewhere in the cooling system FTW.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where? Existing location, or drill/tap new location?
Magnesium plug somewhere in the cooling system FTW.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where? Existing location, or drill/tap new location?
The Alfa guys stick them into their blocks, and I had a plug that screwed into my GT6's radiator - although the block was entirely iron the upper radiator neck was aluminum and prone to being consumed.
One of the Tunertoy's upper radiator necks with the coolant line and extra temp sensor provisions looks about perfect for introducing a magnesium plug. There are probably a number of other places you could do so - hijack coolant to the TB, for example - but short of a race engine that gets 90% water... that you are too lazy to drain between events like you are supposed to... none of the Honduh engines are really prone to electrolysis.
Anyway, this isn't what the OP was asking about... if he's worried about underhood temps then he shouldn't ever go turbo.
One of the Tunertoy's upper radiator necks with the coolant line and extra temp sensor provisions looks about perfect for introducing a magnesium plug. There are probably a number of other places you could do so - hijack coolant to the TB, for example - but short of a race engine that gets 90% water... that you are too lazy to drain between events like you are supposed to... none of the Honduh engines are really prone to electrolysis.
Anyway, this isn't what the OP was asking about... if he's worried about underhood temps then he shouldn't ever go turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Semtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The corrosion comes from using dissimilar block/radiator metals. The only disadvantage of using tap water is that it leaves behind mineral deposits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the tap water has ions that can start corrosion in uncommon ways, but your also right that the main problem is the hard water depisites.
You could also use a piece of zinc. Thats what you always see on boat motors, specifically the outboards that use alum for the entire casing. Its not as reactive/galvanic(?) as mag, but is between mag and alum.
Actually the tap water has ions that can start corrosion in uncommon ways, but your also right that the main problem is the hard water depisites.
You could also use a piece of zinc. Thats what you always see on boat motors, specifically the outboards that use alum for the entire casing. Its not as reactive/galvanic(?) as mag, but is between mag and alum.
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