I don't understand why my BRK6E-11 are working better than BRK7E. Is it because BRK7E is V-Power? I gapped them both .23~.25 ish. I was running the 6's untill @ the higher rpms it'd bog and hesistates a bit.. So I pulled the plugs and it seemed like it's running too hot.. So I figure go a step colder and use the 7's.. but it boggs but starting at lower rpms. Any experience like this? Pleaes chime in and help!

BRK6E-11 VS BRK7E. Same gap.. Should I tried the BRK7E-11's? or maybe 8's?

 

how much power are you making? whats your ignition setup?

 

is your car tuned and what are you using for ECM?

 

You need to explain more what is going on. If your breaking up at higher RPMS alot of times when it is under boost your dizzy is having some issues.

 

I agree... Dont think the plugs are the issue here...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolingb20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to explain more what is going on. If your breaking up at higher RPMS alot of times when it is under boost your dizzy is having some issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.

 

dizzy is fairly new.. stock OEM B16a dizzy. tuned by a certified tuner with Chrome Pro. running 7 psi turbonetic spring wastegate. Engine is B16a. T3/4 Hybrid turbo. 450cc dsm blue top.

What I don't understand is.. why is my car running almost perfect with bkr6e-11 but with bkr7es it runs poorly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tksavestheday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tuned by a certified tuner with Chrome Pro</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of certifications does he have? it may not be your plugs..

 

Who tunned it? I use to live in HI.....

 

So to recap, 6's only bog @high rpm, while 7's bog low/mid/high rpm?

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/t...y=US#

Kinda odd how thats happening. That website shows the different things than alter the heat range, you may want to get some 6's that are almost 7's by design (or vice versa), based on how they're made; call ngk if nothing else. I can't quite recall, but sohc's recommended plug had the electrode stick out more or less, which would affect heat, maybe try those.

I'd also suggest trying a bit more timing @low rpm with the 7's (if they only bog low), or less timing with the 6's @upper rpm. Unless the tuner used acustical equipment and did much of the tuning on the street, I'd still question his tune. There have been an absolute shitload of people who can tune, but really just add some timing here and there based on a whim and experience. You wouldn't have a $1000 suit tailored for you based on their experience with other clients, would you?

BTW I'd suggest pulling the plugs at the rpm points where it bogs the most.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tksavestheday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dizzy is fairly new.. stock OEM B16a dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you be more specific? Which parts are new? the coil?, ICM? cap/rotor?

I had a similar issue. Moving up to a colder plug caused my idle to misfire but I had to use the colder plug bc I was boosting 20psi. I ended up going with an external coil to beef up the spark and the idle issues went away. Sometimes stock Dizzy's are hit or miss, even with new components.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can you be more specific? Which parts are new? the coil?, ICM? cap/rotor?

I had a similar issue. Moving up to a colder plug caused my idle to misfire but I had to use the colder plug bc I was boosting 20psi. I ended up going with an external coil to beef up the spark and the idle issues went away. Sometimes stock Dizzy's are hit or miss, even with new components.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you guys for replying.

Maybe 3-4 month prior to putting the turbo kit together, my dizzy had crapped out so I had ordered the new distributor. The base, coil, the rotor but the cap. I tried it with my friend's distributor as well in case it was the distributor.. same issue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who tunned it? I use to live in HI..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Jose. He's done quite a handful of turbo cars and are pretty known with his tuning capability.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So to recap, 6's only bog @high rpm, while 7's bog low/mid/high rpm?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, 6's rarely bog at all.. only when engine gets hot.. when engine is nice and warm, like in the morning it pulls like hell even after the vtec all the way to the redline. but when it is hot, it bogs and hesistates @ 5.5~6 rpm when I stab the gas pedal.

When I pull the 6's plugs out, the insulator nose is "burnt" more than half way.. maybe 3/4th of the way and I read that the further the nose is "burnt" the richer I'm running. Hence the hotter plugs. So I thought using the 7's would do wonders. But when I pulled the 7's out after driving a little bit.. the insulator nose has "burnt" more than 4/5th way in. Shouldn't it be doing the opposite asI used the colder the plugs?

 

I guess no one can help with this one..

 

its either (A) or (B)

(A) your ignition is crapping out (you say you never replaced the cap - you should have replaced that as well.)

(B) your setup isn't tuned right. if it ran fine from the time you got it tuned, then its (A) and you gotta find out whats messed up. aside cap you mention nothing about the wires. i had problems recently because i haven't replaced wires for 30k miles.

what i don't understand is why you're swithig to different plugs if your setup was tuned. you should use only the components for which you are tuned. so.. did you have problems running 6's to begin with? i thought 7's should be used for boost unless you make little hp.

 

Could be bad fuel, or a crappy fuel additive contaminating spark, and fouling plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be bad fuel, or a crappy fuel additive contaminating spark, and fouling plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks guys for your inputs.. I think it had to do with the crappy plugs.. For those of you who are having similar issues.. DO NOT use the V-Power crap from NGK aka BKR7E/BKR7E-11. I noticed that my BKR6E-11's weren't V-Power, So I looked for 7 heat range with out the V-Power crap.. which was the BPR7ES so I used them and gapped it pretty tight.. It's running solid. And hopefully it will for awhile. Thanks guys!

FIY BPR7ES = Part #: 3330

 

well, for what its worth, in addition to cap/rotor/dizzy I've seen old/poor quality plug wires create all sorts of problems with boosted set ups as well. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tksavestheday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DO NOT use the V-Power crap from NGK aka BKR7E/BKR7E-11. </TD></TR></TABLE>


is all i've been using for years and no problems whatsoever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


is all i've been using for years and no problems whatsoever.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know I know.. it's a great spark plugs. Not doubting nothing.. just letting some people know the alternative route. What are you trying to justify anyway?

 

What are you trying to argue?