Since I went with a larger turbo I do get a bit of delay it feels in the shifts also hurting my et. It's a 57trim 60ar housing it spools up good on a healthy b16.

Old eBay turbo I could chirp 4th hard and have a really decent mph in the trap. This one reliable and smoke free I'm not totally used to it.

The pluming goes to a 2 stage mbc and is as short as possible except for the line that goes to the intercooler pipe down by the bumper about 1 foot.

How are people reducing lag between shifts? I read my blitz dual drive helps a little bit.

Is more psi the only way or what :D

 

Shift flat, if you trust your fueling and valvetrain.

 

Upgrade that ecu.

Full Throttle shifts

Sets a cut at your redline when you engage your clutch switch

 

Yea flat shifting is really your only option.. or try to simply shift faster. any turbo regardless of size is going to have some recovery time between shifts, unless you use a rally style anti lag that prevents boost from falling off between shifts but with repeated use it shortens turbo life a lot.

the other issue with flat shifting is it can be just as hard, if not worse, on the valvetrain and transmission... especially during initial setup when you're setting it up properly. I've seen people drop valves, break gears, kill synchros, even break axles and final drives when using flat shift and trying to get it setup properly.

 

practice the NLS. No Lift Shifts. It works BUT ive personally been in a car and while doing that and then hearing a loud pop and seeing alot of smoke. lol goodbye motor.

 

No lift shifting without some sort of secondary limiter (flat shift) will cause rpm to jump in between gears which equals destruction. the whole point of flat shifting is when the ecu sees the clutch switch activated it activates a secondary limiter that is just low enough to unload the drivetrain so you can shift without lifting off the throttle.

 

People have been flat footing it long before there were ECUs telling the car how to rev, wantboost. If you trust your valvetrain and fueling, and don't mind risking your clutch (which, if you're at the strip, you shouldn't), flat foot that ****. If you don't trust your hardware, then suck it up and accept it as part of driving a car with a big turbo.

 

I don't flat shift, no point.

I also know that there's some lag between shifts so it doesn't bother me.

the biggest issue is our transmissions have synchros, not dogs, so just slamming into the next gear, or "power shifting" with no way to unload the gearset is a really good way to nuke a transmission.

 

A friend just reminded me of option 4: Shell out some major cash, and get a racing auto transmission that's made to handle the abuse. No more bogging, because no more clutch!

 

they don't really exist for b series... I've been looking for one and no one makes a reverse rotation passenger side oriented transmission.

I might have a company in Switzerland that can make one but it's about 15,000 dollars

 

Just keep your foot buried in the loud pedal and let 'er eat.


For real though, when I upgraded to a custom short shifter and started flat footing gears I noticed a big difference in how quick the car got along. Lots of lost time found again by not having respool times. 150k stock head, street tuned on crome and a stage 4 clutch. Popping flames on the limiter.

 

Things you need faith in.
1. Your rev limiter setting vs your valvetrain dexterity
2. How far over your rev limiter the engine will go while flat shifting
3. Your ability to make sure youre going into the correct gear. a flat shift might not kill the motor but a 2-3-2 will for sure.
4. Your synchros and Sliding sleeves LOL

 

Yep, they're hard to find, but they exist (I believe Xtrac offers one), and you're definitely looking in the 5 digits for one. Evidently IPT has offerings in the $4000 range, but it's one of those "call us to talk about it" kind of things, so I have no idea what they're built to handle.

Just throwing it out there as another option.

 

I checked the xtrac box, clockwise rotation only. Most of the available units from companies like Hollinger are designed for drivers side transmission placement (k series style). you can spin a transmission backwards but you lose about 30% of the gear strength.

Sainz Europe makes a generic transmission for passenger side reverse rotation setups but you have to machine your own bellhousing and custom make axles and intermediate shafts to fit your application.

ppg, g-force,Quaife, and a few others offer dog engagement straight cut gear sets but they eliminate 5th gear with a handcuff so drag only. Quaife offers a 1-5 dog straight cut set with new stronger forks for around 6-8k

the company I found in Switzerland has a dedicated b series 6spd sequential transmission with dog engagement straight cut gears. so all you do to shift is push and pull. kit has it's own helical LSD, stronger intermediate shaft, new axles, Porsche style CVs, 2 sets of axle shafts, billet hubs (4 lug), extended studs, shift rod and shifter assembly.

you can do clutchless upshifts and downshifts but the upshifts require some sort of ignition cut to unload the dogs. downshifts require you to either blip the throttle before downshifting or using an external throttle blipper.

UK based Geartronics makes a really nice closed loop air shifter system for sequential transmissions. a friend has the system on his lotus exige with a Quaife sequential trans.

it uses steering wheel mounted paddle shifters with a pneumatic actuator, compressor, and small tank to change gears. it has an external throttle blipper for downshifts and a fully programmable standalone ecu to control ignition cut, shift delay, shift times, and throttle blip time/amount on downshifts.

this system only requires you to use a clutch to get the car rolling. it's not cheap but it's well worth the money... especially over rudimentary timer based systems that regularly cause transmission and drivetrain damage.

 

Albins maybe?

They make dog and synchro sets.

http://speedfactoryracing.net/produc...lical-gear-set

They make a synchro set as well, but that pretty much defeats the purpose in this thread.
http://speedfactoryracing.net/produc...lical-gear-set

 

They make gear sets, not entire sequential transmissions. And again their sets are only 1-4 eliminating 5th gear in favor of a handcuff, so drag only. you really don't want to drive a car on the street with only 4th gear at a 1:1 ratio.

Hewland, Elite, Hollinger, and other companies seem to have moved away from fwd offerings all together, only offering FR and MR transmission systems.

 

What clutch are u on?

Full throttle shifts WITH OUT the proper ecu parameters will kill your trans quick if your pushing decent power, try to up your rev limiter to 9500-9700 to help a little I had trouble with this as well on my new set up with a bigger turbo. It helps to up rev limit I still fts from 1/2.

 

Time for a ball bearing turbo

GTX28R turbo = upgrade = fun times

Risk of blowing a B16A from NLS = Needs repair or replacement = b*tch work and waste of time

I usually go for the fun times...lol

 

I'll have the cure for both soon... 6spd sequential transmission = trump card :D

 

Not sure if it's been thought of, but you have to remember.... when you spin a helical gear the other direction it sends the load in the opposite direction. You'd be busting outer case halves like it's your job. Straight cut gear and a billet outer case half is the only way to go. Billet outer case half is gonna run you at least $3k.

 

Yea that's the other problem.

I havebt found a billet inner case for less than like 1500, I've personally never seen a billet outer case either.

a quality 1-4 straight cut dog gear set will run at least 6,000... Then there's the cost of a straight cut final drive, helical LSD or spool (drag car only obviously) then a stronger intermediate shaft, axles/cv's, billet hubs, upgraded shift change holder, shift linkage, shifter, etc.

it's easily 10k in parts alone.

the b series 6spd sequential I found is a close ratio straight cut dog gear set, bespoke cases, includes the LSD and final drive, has new billet hubs, bigger intermediate shaft, 2 pairs of bigger axles (one spare set), Porsche style CVs, shift rod and shifter assembly for only 12k, it's basically a complete drivetrain system in a box.

when you consider the labor to assemble the stock transmission with the new gear set, bearings, setting clearances, etc plus trying to get a bunch of parts from different companies to work together the benefit to the above system is obvious, at least for a street/circuit app. shipping from Switzerland isn't cheap but well worth it IMO.

it isn't optimal for drag setups since the gear width is narrower due to having 6 gears, close ratios, and the space constraints, plus not being designed for insane hp setups launching on tall sticky tires from a dig and the close ratios will cause all sorts of traction issues and gearing problems towards the end of the 1/4 so those kinds of setups need a 1-4 drag oriented gearing system. So you're really stuck with the 10k+ parts setup and making everything work together.

 

prob going to do the gsr trans swap, maybe even drop the whole swap in but im enjoying my little 1.6. still bs though im losing time due to shift lag. the clutch is an act xtreme / street disk / itr flywheel. I feel if I raise the limit the power drop is going to be pretty big after 8000. id have to do some cams also...and that's costing more than the trans swap. but again the head is going to be needing to be done anyway for the next builds I do.

my only issue is the gsr trans is open diff now. apparently the lsd is leaking in my b16 trans and cannot be re used I assume. which is such bs tbh. I may do an m factory lsd. too many choices guys

 

Never heard of an LSD leaking?! If it is in fact still good you will have to use the b16 ring gear n countershaft. Keep that in mind

 

Im not sure the lsd have actualy have fluid in them, but the factory ones are viscous, and ir you use the wrong fluids they wont work right. They work by a clutch pack that normally does nothing, but once a wheel starts spinning the fluids fling off the clutch packs and they start grabbing to aplly power to the other wheel.

Mechanical lsds are spring loaded so once one wheel starts to slip the spring pack starts clamping the clutches together with more force to keep power to both wheels.

 

Any Honda/Acura with an OEM LSD has always been a mechanical helical differential, I've never ever seen a viscous on a fwd application