Chrisv006

Ok...first off I have a daily driver so This is just a toy...

Im currently planning on building a turbo hatch, but with the most weight reduction I can fesiably do...

My power goal is ~350bhp. I wanted to go with a D16 (there cheap), B18b or B20.

After a little reading, Im ditching the B20 idea. Now with either a D16 or B18, how difficult would it be to obtain 350whp.

I plan on forged rods, low compression pistons, and sleeves in the bottom end. Will these three be enough to handle that kind of power? For the topend, I was going to initially leave it stock (trying to stay on a budget).

As far as the turbo setup....Not 100% sure yet, but thats the easy part.

Just need to know what I need to do to the block to handle ~350bhp with no problems.

-Chris

boostedcivicsir

well your 350 bhp goal should be more than obtainable with stock sleves. boosted-hybrid just got 600whp out of a stock sleeved ls. it is all in the tuning.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1290943

Chrisv006

Very nice.

Sleeves were one of the things I didnt want to do unless I had to. I was hoping a B18b with pistons and rods could get me there with a nice tune/turbosetup.

-Chris

boostedcivicsir

you may need a block guard atleast though.

Andrea

No need for the block guard. That stock sleeve link that was posted was done without a block guard. We've seen more problems with block guards then we have see on cars without them. Reason being that the expansion rate of the aluminum of the block guard is much greater than the expansion of the sleeve. The block guard at high temps and high boost puts so much force on a stock sleeve that it tends to oval the sleeve quite easily. You can easily make safe, reliable power without a block guard.

boostedcivicsir

thankyou for clarifying. i did not know that!

Zakar

you can make 300ish on stock b18 internals.. With forged pistons/rods i would shoot higher then 350... maby 425

just make sure you do your homework on your tuner

Chrisv006

I am planning on doing most of the tuning my self, taking my time and learning being careful.

We plan on taking our time and doing things right the first time.

I was shooting for 350 relibility if I can squeeze 400+ on race gas, high boost...for one nice impressive dyno sheet....sweet


-Chris

Chrisv006

another random ?

How about a ZC Motor Turbo? How are they?

I can get one for next to nothing if I cant find a B18a/b

-Chris

kameleon23

Why is your decision a D16 or B18....Ever think about a B16? They love boost! Cheaper than a B18 also

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kameleon23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is your decision a D16 or B18....Ever think about a B16? They love boost! Cheaper than a B18 also </TD></TR></TABLE>

B18B's are dirt *** cheap and totally common around junkyards, plus you get all that delicious torque.

Chrisv006

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18B's are dirt *** cheap and totally common around junkyards, plus you get all that delicious torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldnt have said it better my self

My goal is to have an engine capable of 400ish hp, but only make 300-350 for safety/relibility (Leaned form the MR2..) and throw that into a 1600-1700lb hatch. Yes I know it will not be easy and require faily substantial modification to get the weight down that much. Got my lexan and whatnot alllll ready to go

-Chris