cleansi

Hello H-T,

I recently bought this turbo off a guy pretty cheap he had told me it was in good condition and worked great. it was dirt cheap regardless of what i do with it
upon inspection there is no shaft play and confirmed it to be decent condition. he did not know the specs of the turbo
I would like to seperate the cartrige and housings but the fastners seem to be heavly corroded ive hit them up with some penetration oil (ill give it another shot later)


questions
can you point me in the correct direction to find out what turbo it is? (ill measure inducer exducer once i crack it apart and post pictures)
Is there a safe way to blast the center cartrige to prep for powdercoating?
How come this one looks like it has ports on the side of the cartrige as well ? dont remember my last PTE having this allthough its been a whille

Boost4Breakfast

side ports are for coolant; its a water cooled turbo. If you get the measurements of the compressor and exhaust wheels, someone should be able to identify it for you.
Personally, I'd sell it. Precision turbos reliability is lacking, their service department is a joke, and the majority of their turbos are made with inferior Chinese parts since Garrett quit supplying their cores. They have a decent compressor wheel design (just increased blade area due to reduce shaft hub OD diameter), but that's about it. Just my 2 cents.

cleansi

I thought they were oil cooled only? the guy only had lines hooked up to the oil ports
I could understand if thats the way they were manufactured.

ive had a precision on my last car for 4 years and loved it never had a problem
ive read the stories i am not asking about Precisions Quality thanks though

Boost4Breakfast

you can run it with or without coolant. Its oil lubricated/cooled, but the coolant is for when the engine is shut off without properly being cooled down. Its just to prevent coaking by dispersing heat through the cooling system when the engine is shut off. Thats why 90+% of oem application turbos are water cooled. The average consumer doesnt know they cant rape the car around town and turn it off instantly.

Sounds like you probably had a Garrett-chra pte turbo previously

cleansi

not sure i had the newer 5857 billet bb
i honestly did not know that
I take it most people dont bother

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If the CHRA is made for oil and water, you can't just run it on oil. Wantboost talked about this a while ago. For a purely oil-cooled turbo, the CHRA is solid, and acts as a heat sink for itself. You need to give it cool-down time before turning it off, to prevent oil coking. For an oil and water cooled turbo, there are large chasms that should be filled with coolant. When you run it "dry" (oil only), those chasms are filled with air. Air makes a hell of an insulator, and will trap that heat in the turbo, raising oil temps and promoting oil coking. Oil coking is bad. If the turbo is made to run wet, you need to run it wet.

Boost4Breakfast

there are different schools of thought on the matter. The "air pockets" created by not running coolant in a water cooled turbo can act like a heat sink itself. Think of hot vs cool air and pressure differentials. The Hot air "trapped" inside's pressure is lower, and the cooler air surrounding the CHRA is denser and higher pressure. Due to under hood thermal dynamics, along with temperatures on either side/port of the CHRA's never being exactly the same (block side vs radiator side, under manifold heat rising, being displaced by cool air from under the car, etc... ever seen a hood start to bend/front end float at higher speeds?), the "trapped" hot air inside the CHRA can circulate out.
Ive ran water cooled turbos without water running through them for years on many applications without issue (diesels, buggies, cars, etc.). Remember conditions under the hood are never equal or static. But once again, just my 2 cents

cleansi

thanks for the input fella's

Well after talkin to a few other people I will deff run the coolent lines.
I had a friend PM and give me the advice i was looking for.
as for the size it is ruffly (not exact)

3.25" or 81mm exducer
4.1" or 103 inducer

remember they are ruff sizes i couldnt get the caliper all the way center

Boost4Breakfast

you sure thats the measurements? I'd double check them as those dont seem right. Also inducer on the compressor side is the smaller diameter, closer to where the air comes "in", exducer is the large diameter.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It almost looks like you're holding that caliper diagonally across the wheel...

As for running an oil/water turbo without water, I see what you're saying, but the hot air trapped in the water jacket doesn't really have anywhere to go. Yes, it will heat up and pressurize itself, and yes, that pressure will escape through the holes, but there's no real way for the hot air to be fully cycled out and allow for cool air to come in, short of adding some kind of funny air exchanger...and at that point, you might as well just hook up coolant lines. Air temps in the coolant jacket will just continue to climb, which will push oil temps higher, until it finally gets to a point that the CHRA is exchanging heat off the air, instead of the oil.

cleansi

yeah i just double checked give or take a few mm..
hmmm ohwell at least no i can start media blasting the housing

Boost4Breakfast

the PTE 81mm turbos I've seen are much larger than your head.... cant help ya. throw it on, have fun. lol

cleansi

I dont know i have a pretty big head hehe

you must be a race car driver i could tell... having such a big turbo

cleansi

Any one else use Cerakote or Prismatic Powders?

Boost4Breakfast

trying for 1000+whp?

cleansi

why you ask? becuase of the size?
i was told that this turbo is a older pre 2006 garret core older GT4067R ball bearing.
well i just finished ceramic coating the housing hope it holds up but guess time will tell.
ive read too many mixed reviews.

i decided not to coat the catridge becuase of the danger of fod from the media blasting.

Boost4Breakfast

thats not a 4067r. the 4067 has a 67mm inducer, not an ~81mm. Maybe its a gt4508r

cleansi

Products | Turbochargers

I cant seem to find the correct one. but with a .82 housing? would that help the lag?
So i can expect a super slow lots lag power curve huuh. its going on 10.2:1 built GSR block.
the guy bought off of originally told me he thought it was a 6262 lol.
should I ditch this my goal is 500 to 650 whp but might add more in the future.

Boost4Breakfast

That thing would be laggy as hell on a built 2jz, let alone a b series. I'd clean it up and sell it. For only 650whp with a useable powerband, I'd get a gt3586r or a BW s363. I bet you could unload that turbo for good $$ on a supraforums, ls1tech, or a diesel site like competitiondiesel.

cleansi

ok so i rechecked my numbers, I figure im not going to use it so how ever i sell it to might want to know what it is.

here is what i got

exhuast
inducer 83mm
exducer 75mm
122.47 trim

fresh air
inducer 74mm
exducer 102mm
52.63 trim

Boost4Breakfast

Ok, I'm thinking thats a Gt4202r. the "r" only if its ball bearing

cleansi

so i got around to checking the thread pitch on the CHRA i was told that would be the determining point between the a gt42 journal or ball bearing and its
this what i got..
Pictured is the water jacket. the oil feed and return is quite smaller

thanks to the the Turbo brainiac !!
Check the water line fittings.. If you have the GT4202R, You'll have a M18 X 1.50 pitch water fitting that will fit.. (I can't remember what the size oil feed was for both, so we're going to go by Water fitting size).

If you have closer to a 3/8NPT water fitting, with something like a 1/4NPT oil feed then you know you have the Journal Bearing GT4202.
so i take it this turbo is a Journal bearing?
gt42.82?

Boost4Breakfast

I believe you are correct that its a journal bearing gt42. I kinda wish I didnt already buy a turbo for my audi project or I'd make ya an offer.

cleansi

well that really sucks!
pretty much the worst out come well size any ways ill throw it on ebay or vatolist or something..
i got just finished coating and cleaning and reassembling everything not trying to pitch it on the FI thread mods just think it worth a picture from my hard work.
i really just got the thing so i could restore it im kinda OCD and everything has to be clean. I am still surprised its in such a small housing i realize wy it comes standard with 4" dp

Boost4Breakfast

seriously try ls1tech.com, competitiondiesel.com, modularfords.com, dsmtuners.com, supraforums.com, etc. That look damn near brand new now. How much would you ask as one of my clients might be interested in it