PVC system mods...
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Re: PVC system mods... (ShowTymers619)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShowTymers619 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok... i dont kno if your trying to prove anything with your answers i just gave aprolly the best way to make it look legal</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
Making it "look legal" huh. Please invest some time in researching a subject before you give a "this looks good" response. Especially if you are going to get all transvestike when someone points out some obvious facts to you.
ok... i dont kno if your trying to prove anything with your answers i just gave aprolly the best way to make it look legal</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
Making it "look legal" huh. Please invest some time in researching a subject before you give a "this looks good" response. Especially if you are going to get all transvestike when someone points out some obvious facts to you.
* B A N N E D *
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From: SD, ca, us
Re: PVC system mods... (devnull)
i hope you remember what the main question was here...
putting a breather on the valve cover does not pass, he wants atleast to make it look like it will pass thats prolly the closest thing he can do is not to have that breather on the valve cover
putting a breather on the valve cover does not pass, he wants atleast to make it look like it will pass thats prolly the closest thing he can do is not to have that breather on the valve cover
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Re: PVC system mods... (ShowTymers619)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShowTymers619 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope you remember what the main question was here...
putting a breather on the valve cover does not pass, he wants atleast to make it look like it will pass thats prolly the closest thing he can do is not to have that breather on the valve cover</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you read what I said?
Ting them together is wrong. Do you want all the oil and crap entering your valve cover breather instead of evacuating? We would not be having this discussion if you could read and owned a service manual or used the search function.
Look up a couple posts where I pointed out that you can indeed connect it to the turbo inlet since that is how the factory setup is - behind the filter (still sucking in filtered air). Just don't T it with the other line. Search for haberdasher's diagram and you will (well I don't know if YOU will) get a better idea.
putting a breather on the valve cover does not pass, he wants atleast to make it look like it will pass thats prolly the closest thing he can do is not to have that breather on the valve cover</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you read what I said?
Ting them together is wrong. Do you want all the oil and crap entering your valve cover breather instead of evacuating? We would not be having this discussion if you could read and owned a service manual or used the search function.
Look up a couple posts where I pointed out that you can indeed connect it to the turbo inlet since that is how the factory setup is - behind the filter (still sucking in filtered air). Just don't T it with the other line. Search for haberdasher's diagram and you will (well I don't know if YOU will) get a better idea.
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From: evans, ga, usa
Re: PVC system mods... (devnull)
Yeah you can ust an oil catch can from Jegs or even Ebay. make sure it has a petcock on the bottom to drain it every so often and fill it with some metal gauze, like steel wool so the there is soem substance to gather the oil and then just vent the excess air out the bottom of car.
Your idea is good and will work devnull I like it. The only thign is whatyou said is wrong. Teh factory design where it has the hose on the intake tube behind the filter isn't sucking. It's applying positive pressure to the crankcase and the side after the pcv valve is doing the sucking. Thats on a stock Honda NA set-up.
Your idea is good and will work devnull I like it. The only thign is whatyou said is wrong. Teh factory design where it has the hose on the intake tube behind the filter isn't sucking. It's applying positive pressure to the crankcase and the side after the pcv valve is doing the sucking. Thats on a stock Honda NA set-up.
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: evans, ga, usa
Re: PVC system mods... (LostSolVTEC)
Thats a good design. I lik eit. And the 90 degree elbows in the intake tube will make it work right. I have one in my CAI so the incoming air pushes more then the stock one did to help clear out the crankcase.
Thread Starter
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: PVC system mods... (slipslap)
I suppose a vacuum pump would be the best. I used the search function and in one of those threads posted my observations of how 2 of my own personal turbo cars did it from factory. There are a couple of distinct problems.
Under boost there is no available source of vacuum. Under boost the factory PCV will be closed so the venting happens out the valve cover.
On a street car you probably see boost 5% of the running time. The emissions cops look for and specifically ticket any breaters they see or non-recirculating BOVs.
So in this case there are 2 distinct oiling problems:
a) the PCV on the intake manifold is probably sucking in oil fumes.
b) the valve cover breather is probably also sucking in oil fumes.
Some people suggest a vacuum pump but I think that's overkill for the 5% of time under boost. I think what I really need is a dual chambered catch can to protect each circuit from the oil fumes and still isolate them vacuum-wise so there is normally an air flow through the valvecover into the crank and out the PCV port.
-Michael
Under boost there is no available source of vacuum. Under boost the factory PCV will be closed so the venting happens out the valve cover.
On a street car you probably see boost 5% of the running time. The emissions cops look for and specifically ticket any breaters they see or non-recirculating BOVs.
So in this case there are 2 distinct oiling problems:
a) the PCV on the intake manifold is probably sucking in oil fumes.
b) the valve cover breather is probably also sucking in oil fumes.
Some people suggest a vacuum pump but I think that's overkill for the 5% of time under boost. I think what I really need is a dual chambered catch can to protect each circuit from the oil fumes and still isolate them vacuum-wise so there is normally an air flow through the valvecover into the crank and out the PCV port.
-Michael
Thread Starter
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: PVC system mods... (LostSolVTEC)
Hrm. That's an interesting idea if I can get a small enough screen to protect against tiny particles of steel from being pulled into the intake.
-Michael
-Michael
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Re: PVC system mods... (slipslap)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slipslap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah you can ust an oil catch can from Jegs or even Ebay. make sure it has a petcock on the bottom to drain it every so often and fill it with some metal gauze, like steel wool so the there is soem substance to gather the oil and then just vent the excess air out the bottom of car.
Your idea is good and will work devnull I like it. The only thign is whatyou said is wrong. Teh factory design where it has the hose on the intake tube behind the filter isn't sucking. It's applying positive pressure to the crankcase and the side after the pcv valve is doing the sucking. Thats on a stock Honda NA set-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think there is a misunderstanding, this is what I meant:
If I said something wrong thanks for correcting.
I personally would use two separate cans. One connected to the block and one to the valve cover, and keeping with your ingest-nasty-****-but-looks-legal theme, connect the lines from the cans to the turbo inlet pipe after the filter as in that diagram.
Just stick a can in-line with the blue line (since the valve cover spits fumes out sometimes or so I have read.)
Lostsoulvtec that is the diag I was referring to thanks.
Your idea is good and will work devnull I like it. The only thign is whatyou said is wrong. Teh factory design where it has the hose on the intake tube behind the filter isn't sucking. It's applying positive pressure to the crankcase and the side after the pcv valve is doing the sucking. Thats on a stock Honda NA set-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think there is a misunderstanding, this is what I meant:
If I said something wrong thanks for correcting.
I personally would use two separate cans. One connected to the block and one to the valve cover, and keeping with your ingest-nasty-****-but-looks-legal theme, connect the lines from the cans to the turbo inlet pipe after the filter as in that diagram.
Just stick a can in-line with the blue line (since the valve cover spits fumes out sometimes or so I have read.)
Lostsoulvtec that is the diag I was referring to thanks.
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From: LBC
Re: PVC system mods... (devnull)
i think the prob is that the valve cover on honda actually sucks air in when it's running in vacume or under normal N/A occations. But when boost is present it pressurizes the crank case and then you will get blow by past the pistons, causing air/oil vapor to come out of the valve cover instead of in. That is why it's usually not hooked up to the intake on a turbo charged car so that no oil will get in the intake track. The catch can/breather set up helps relieve most of this pressure so that not much will come out of the valve, this is due to the lowered amount of blow by which should also save ur ringlands in the long run too. I dunno maybe i'm just talkin out of my *** but it kinda made sence to me 
Thread Starter
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: PVC system mods... (LostSolVTEC)
Hrm. That's an interesting idea if I can get a small enough screen to protect against tiny particles of steel from being pulled into the intake.
-Michael
-Michael
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From: evans, ga, usa
Re: PVC system mods... (hackish)
My bad dev. you said it's still sucking in filtered air. That is correct, for some reason I thought you meant the intake tube was sucking in air from the psotive supply line to the crankcase. Thats what happens when the pcv valve gets clogged. But I understand what you wrote now and we are on the same page.
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From: Tejas
Re: (b16crx1)
First, I'd like to clarify some things..
Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Endyn uses 2 outlets for the hoses, a drain **** and the breather valve on top. I have yet to see any catch can that have these features.
So inconclusion, if you think you can do it for less, great !...I thought so too..
I took apart normal off the shelf catch can, I bougth an Endyn Kit, then I went to work, and I know why it is one of the most effective oil/vapor separator that works !!
I paid twice as much, I spend twice as much, but I am happy and it gives me the fact to compare the 2 systems.
hope this helps,
Stan
Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Endyn uses 2 outlets for the hoses, a drain **** and the breather valve on top. I have yet to see any catch can that have these features.
So inconclusion, if you think you can do it for less, great !...I thought so too..
I took apart normal off the shelf catch can, I bougth an Endyn Kit, then I went to work, and I know why it is one of the most effective oil/vapor separator that works !!
I paid twice as much, I spend twice as much, but I am happy and it gives me the fact to compare the 2 systems.
hope this helps,
Stan
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,964
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Re: (Flamenco-T)
Any soup can and a trip to the hardware store can have those features, but if you want to pay for bling it is your money.
Yeah I saw he CHANGED the fittings. Nice, now we pay for a tube in a honda fitting
Again, trip to hardware store + a little DIY fab work and you have THE SAME functionality as the endyn kit for a fraction of the cost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, I'd like to clarify some things..
Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Endyn uses 2 outlets for the hoses, a drain **** and the breather valve on top. I have yet to see any catch can that have these features.
So inconclusion, if you think you can do it for less, great !...I thought so too..
I took apart normal off the shelf catch can, I bougth an Endyn Kit, then I went to work, and I know why it is one of the most effective oil/vapor separator that works !!
I paid twice as much, I spend twice as much, but I am happy and it gives me the fact to compare the 2 systems.
hope this helps,
Stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I saw he CHANGED the fittings. Nice, now we pay for a tube in a honda fitting
Again, trip to hardware store + a little DIY fab work and you have THE SAME functionality as the endyn kit for a fraction of the cost.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, I'd like to clarify some things..
Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Endyn uses 2 outlets for the hoses, a drain **** and the breather valve on top. I have yet to see any catch can that have these features.
So inconclusion, if you think you can do it for less, great !...I thought so too..
I took apart normal off the shelf catch can, I bougth an Endyn Kit, then I went to work, and I know why it is one of the most effective oil/vapor separator that works !!
I paid twice as much, I spend twice as much, but I am happy and it gives me the fact to compare the 2 systems.
hope this helps,
Stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,824
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From: Los Angeles/San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (Flamenco-T)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, I'd like to clarify some things..
1. Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
2. The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. How are the fittings different than the OEM fittings and how do they help to create a vacuum flow? Doesnt the ENDYN kit work because the can with the filter is at atmospheric pressure while the crankase gases have a higher pressure, and therefor are pushed into the can and out the filter?
2. Baffling is just surface area for the oil vapor to collect on. This can easily be achieved by stuffing the can with steel wool.
1. Endyn kit uses different fittings to the block, It is NOT the same as the fitting from direct from Honda. Think of physics and how to create a vacuum flow
2. The catch can itself are baffled, if they weren't I'd be preaching for Greddy, but I am not, the flow of oil and how it separate vapor are very important and it is the definition of the catch can itself. Open up greddy or cusco catch can, and do the same thing to Endyn can, and you'll see the difference.
Stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. How are the fittings different than the OEM fittings and how do they help to create a vacuum flow? Doesnt the ENDYN kit work because the can with the filter is at atmospheric pressure while the crankase gases have a higher pressure, and therefor are pushed into the can and out the filter?
2. Baffling is just surface area for the oil vapor to collect on. This can easily be achieved by stuffing the can with steel wool.
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (Alchemist)
Flamenco-T is right guys ... A baffled catchcan does not just add more surface area then a non- baffled catchcan ... The abrupt directional change forces the oil to precipitate and drip to the bottom of the catchcan ....
... adding surface area by using steel wool is great , but you guys have to realize their has to be a balance: Steel wool poses a restriction and essentially chokes off the potential venting abilities of the catchcan(open or closed).
It is much better to try and seperate oil particles via baffled means instead of adding more and more surface area shoving the catchcan full of steel wool.
Modified by dasher at 5:07 PM 5/9/2004
... adding surface area by using steel wool is great , but you guys have to realize their has to be a balance: Steel wool poses a restriction and essentially chokes off the potential venting abilities of the catchcan(open or closed).
It is much better to try and seperate oil particles via baffled means instead of adding more and more surface area shoving the catchcan full of steel wool.
Modified by dasher at 5:07 PM 5/9/2004
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (devnull)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devnull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any soup can and a trip to the hardware store can have those features, but if you want to pay for bling it is your money.
Yeah I saw he CHANGED the fittings. Nice, now we pay for a tube in a honda fitting Again, trip to hardware store + a little DIY fab work and you have THE SAME functionality as the endyn kit for a fraction of the cost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
... thats great that you are a DIY'er, but the same could be said about other car parts ... why not just spend the time building them for cheaper??? Some people have the Money but don't have the time, and others have the time but not the money. I was one of those people who saved a few bucks and built my catchcan kit myself ... with the amount of time I invested running around finding the right parts and building it I wished I'd just buy the Endyn kit .....
On a similar note : I chose to save 50 bucks by purchasing some Peak and Hold Siemen Deka injectors instead of simply purchasing some RC 720 saturated ones. The 50 bucks saved was not worth my time wiring the injector resistor box , modifying the injectors , drilling out the IM to fit the larger injectors , and using Devcon Liquid aluminum to reshape the injector ports in the IM so the injectors would seat right .
Point is ... Larrys kit is a good deal for what you get , but if you have the time to spend save a few bucks and build a kit yourself ..
Yeah I saw he CHANGED the fittings. Nice, now we pay for a tube in a honda fitting
Again, trip to hardware store + a little DIY fab work and you have THE SAME functionality as the endyn kit for a fraction of the cost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
... thats great that you are a DIY'er, but the same could be said about other car parts ... why not just spend the time building them for cheaper??? Some people have the Money but don't have the time, and others have the time but not the money. I was one of those people who saved a few bucks and built my catchcan kit myself ... with the amount of time I invested running around finding the right parts and building it I wished I'd just buy the Endyn kit .....
On a similar note : I chose to save 50 bucks by purchasing some Peak and Hold Siemen Deka injectors instead of simply purchasing some RC 720 saturated ones. The 50 bucks saved was not worth my time wiring the injector resistor box , modifying the injectors , drilling out the IM to fit the larger injectors , and using Devcon Liquid aluminum to reshape the injector ports in the IM so the injectors would seat right .
Point is ... Larrys kit is a good deal for what you get , but if you have the time to spend save a few bucks and build a kit yourself ..
Joined: Jan 2003
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Re: (dasher)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
... thats great that you are a DIY'er, but the same could be said about other car parts ... why not just spend the time building them for cheaper??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Some people have the Money but don't have the time, and others have the time but not the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True and some have the money and the time. Esp in this case since it only takes a few minutes after you get home from the hardware store.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was one of those people who saved a few bucks and built my catchcan kit myself ... with the amount of time I invested running around finding the right parts and building it I wished I'd just buy the Endyn kit .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is your experience and opinion. Others will differ.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On a similar note : I chose to save 50 bucks by purchasing some Peak and Hold Siemen Deka injectors instead of simply purchasing some RC 720 saturated ones. The 50 bucks saved was not worth my time wiring the injector resistor box , modifying the injectors , drilling out the IM to fit the larger injectors , and using Devcon Liquid aluminum to reshape the injector ports in the IM so the injectors would seat right . </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is your experience and opinion. Others will differ.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Point is ... Larrys kit is a good deal for what you get , but if you have the time to spend save a few bucks and build a kit yourself .. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Point is that is your opinion.
Mine obviously is that the kit is a complete rip off.
... thats great that you are a DIY'er, but the same could be said about other car parts ... why not just spend the time building them for cheaper??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Some people have the Money but don't have the time, and others have the time but not the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True and some have the money and the time. Esp in this case since it only takes a few minutes after you get home from the hardware store.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was one of those people who saved a few bucks and built my catchcan kit myself ... with the amount of time I invested running around finding the right parts and building it I wished I'd just buy the Endyn kit .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is your experience and opinion. Others will differ.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On a similar note : I chose to save 50 bucks by purchasing some Peak and Hold Siemen Deka injectors instead of simply purchasing some RC 720 saturated ones. The 50 bucks saved was not worth my time wiring the injector resistor box , modifying the injectors , drilling out the IM to fit the larger injectors , and using Devcon Liquid aluminum to reshape the injector ports in the IM so the injectors would seat right . </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is your experience and opinion. Others will differ.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Point is ... Larrys kit is a good deal for what you get , but if you have the time to spend save a few bucks and build a kit yourself .. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Point is that is your opinion.
Mine obviously is that the kit is a complete rip off.
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere in, FL, USA
Re: (devnull)
thats sure is alot of writing when you could have said "thats your opinion and mine differs" and it would have said it much quicker ......
.... having said that ... do we really need to point out that someones statements are " opinions" or "personal experiences" ... isn't it just stating the obvious??? From a subjective point of view everything posted is an opinion or personal experience...
.......... having said that ... do we really need to point out that someones statements are " opinions" or "personal experiences" ... isn't it just stating the obvious??? From a subjective point of view everything posted is an opinion or personal experience...
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: V8 Land, State of, USA
Re: PVC system mods... (devnull) (angry reply)
*prepares for flames*
Ok, this question comes up all the freaking time. Why is it so hard for people to understand this concept of what the PCV system does????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devnull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the first picture. Air (filtered) goes into the intake plenum under slight vacuum. That air goes into the valve cover, down the oil passages, and into the oil pan crank area.
Since the intake is always under higher vacuum if sucks the oil/air/vapor mixture OUT of the crankcase and into the intake plenum. Got it? The PCV valve is nothing but a damn check valve. It only lets air OUT, not IN. Try blowing on both ends, you'll see what I mean.
Now look at the second picture. WRONG! It shows air going out of the PCV valve at the same realitive vacuum. IT WON'T WORK! The PCV is a weighted to only operate within a high vacuum differential. In this case, you might as well not have the valve there at all. Remeber the crankcase is supposed to be under vacuum at all times. Like 10 mmHg or less. You can't generate that from a pitot tube setup shown. There isn't enough velocity.
Here's what the person was thinking of:
http://www.engr.ucr.edu/~pstov...s.pdf
Now, about what to do- yes it is true oil vapor will increase the likelyhood of detonation. That is why the STOCK GSR/ Type R motors have an oil baffle canister on the back of the block where the PCV valve is connected. If you have either of these engines you have nothing to worry about. (Not to mention the hose setup is different as well)
If you have an engine that does not have this (B18B) you can either stick with the stock setup, or put any type of catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. If you want one with a nice drain setup, use the endyne kit. If not, you'll need to drain it every week. Or you can build you own. Do not use steel wool, as the shards will seperate and get into the IM. Make something with at least one baffle (not a screen) and you'll be fine.
Remeber, we're talking about a few % of total aiflow, maybe 1-5 CFM. You just need a place for the vapors to "collide" and form droplets. You won't get out any aerosols in the stream, so don't kid yourself.
Please read:
http://www.m-20turbos.com/separator_facts.htm
http://www.hastingsfilter.com/....html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf
*End of rant*
Ok, this question comes up all the freaking time. Why is it so hard for people to understand this concept of what the PCV system does????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devnull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>Look at the first picture. Air (filtered) goes into the intake plenum under slight vacuum. That air goes into the valve cover, down the oil passages, and into the oil pan crank area.
Since the intake is always under higher vacuum if sucks the oil/air/vapor mixture OUT of the crankcase and into the intake plenum. Got it? The PCV valve is nothing but a damn check valve. It only lets air OUT, not IN. Try blowing on both ends, you'll see what I mean.
Now look at the second picture. WRONG! It shows air going out of the PCV valve at the same realitive vacuum. IT WON'T WORK! The PCV is a weighted to only operate within a high vacuum differential. In this case, you might as well not have the valve there at all. Remeber the crankcase is supposed to be under vacuum at all times. Like 10 mmHg or less. You can't generate that from a pitot tube setup shown. There isn't enough velocity.
Here's what the person was thinking of:
http://www.engr.ucr.edu/~pstov...s.pdf
Now, about what to do- yes it is true oil vapor will increase the likelyhood of detonation. That is why the STOCK GSR/ Type R motors have an oil baffle canister on the back of the block where the PCV valve is connected. If you have either of these engines you have nothing to worry about. (Not to mention the hose setup is different as well)
If you have an engine that does not have this (B18B) you can either stick with the stock setup, or put any type of catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. If you want one with a nice drain setup, use the endyne kit. If not, you'll need to drain it every week. Or you can build you own. Do not use steel wool, as the shards will seperate and get into the IM. Make something with at least one baffle (not a screen) and you'll be fine.
Remeber, we're talking about a few % of total aiflow, maybe 1-5 CFM. You just need a place for the vapors to "collide" and form droplets. You won't get out any aerosols in the stream, so don't kid yourself.
Please read:
http://www.m-20turbos.com/separator_facts.htm
http://www.hastingsfilter.com/....html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf
*End of rant*