IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I wanted to put this in the Integra forum where I usually ***** stuff for my car, but I figured you guys would be more conscious and educated as to what it is and what it's for...so I don't have to get into a bunch of trivial stuff.

All the stuff that came with my package. The input cable, rpm inductive pick-up, and output cable are options. You use the analog output cable to output the voltage signal to Hondata systems.


Cable plug-in's.


Bosch LSU-4 Wideband UEGO - this is probably where you'd splice in a replacement sensor if you didn't want to buy a new one directly from Innovate.


5-wire: You could also splice here, but lose some cable length.


Input cable - (5) 0-5V analog inputs + (1) inductive rpm pick-up cable input. It uses a PS2 cable to connect to the box.

5STAR3

uh huh?

look good, wish i had one but, did i miss the tech/question?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

The pictures and commentary are the tech. A lot of people have no idea what the hell they're buying or what options they need when they're looking into getting one.

You don't know how many posts I've seen on it that have people asking about the input cable and inductive pick-up. A lot of people don't know that you need the input cable to be able to use the inductive pick-up.

I'm hoping that the macro pictures and commentary will give people a better idea of what they're buying.

It's not meant to be one of those....look at how this huge *** turbo swallows my head kind of threads.

5STAR3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not meant to be one of those....look at how this huge *** turbo swallows my head kind of threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAHA


fair enough. you have a good point, but from the first post it seemed like one of those "look what i got"

i still dont think it will help those people, because if they dont know what they are getting they sure as hell arent going to be ablt to use it.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

When I'm referring to those that don' know what the hell they're getting, I'm referring to those that would like to know what comes in the kit.

The Innovate UEGO kits have quite a few options and it helps to visually know what comes with it and what doesn't.

spoolinlude

that thing is HUGE...... i guess the added options are nice thou

ImAcracker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by envision2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uh huh?

look good, wish i had one but, did i miss the tech/question?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG!! Just STFU!!! You sound ******* pathetic.

Tbone

I just tunned mine with my car this weekend, it work excellent. And it was almost dead accurate with the dyno wideband at Wot.

Snail Tuning

how much did your complete kit cost shipped?

thanks

turbolsintegra26

Has anyone out there actually been able to wire the analog cable to the factory harness and use it with hondata ( datalogging) ? Because I can't and I can't find any one who has. I just got back from the Hondata seminar in CA (from SLC) they couldn't help on this one.

V-SPEC 1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbointegra22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone out there actually been able to wire the analog cable to the factory harness and use it with hondata ( datalogging) ? Because I can't and I can't find any one who has. I just got back from the Hondata seminar in CA (from SLC) they couldn't help on this one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I want to know as well. I have S200B and I'll get one if this will work with the hondata.

Tbone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbointegra22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone out there actually been able to wire the analog cable to the factory harness and use it with hondata ( datalogging) ? Because I can't and I can't find any one who has. I just got back from the Hondata seminar in CA (from SLC) they couldn't help on this one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I did we tunned all day saturday like this. white wire goes to sensor signal and the copper goes to sensor ground. we used a dummy 4 wire o2 plug so we can just plug right ino the harness at the o2. Then set the min -max values in romeditor under the lamda section.

edit cause iIcant type or spell these days apparently. lol


Modified by Tbone at 1:14 AM 3/16/2004

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, I did we tunned all day saturday like this. white wire goes to sensor signal and the copper goes to sensor ground. we used a dummy 4 wire o3 plug so we can just plug right ino the harness at the o2. ten set the min -max values in romedior under the lamda section.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, it worked awesome. So impressed with that wideband. Has everything you need and it was really accurate.

s

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I'll be doing the same thing today. I cut the plug off of my old oxygen sensor.

turbolsintegra26

I dont have a copper wire, this is the analog cable I got from innovative. Also, what voltage settings settings did you use VS. A/F on hondata and on the LM-1 box?



Need a little more help. Thanks Justin

raene

Does the Innovate unit actually use the O2 heater on the five-wire?

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbointegra22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have a copper wire, this is the analog cable I got from innovative. Also, what voltage settings settings did you use VS. A/F on hondata and on the LM-1 box?



Need a little more help. Thanks Justin</TD></TR></TABLE>

the white and red wires are both the signal. the non sheathed wires are the ground. So hook the white wire from the O2 plug to either the white or red wire on the analog output cable. The green wire goes to ground. Check which one is ouptut 2, that's setup by default for wideband output.

well, the default setting on the LM-1 uses from 1.002 to 2.004 volts. And I believe that is from 10:1 to 20:1 a/f. So each .1v is 1 a/f. I changed the LM-1 output to go from 0.5v to 4.5v. You can make it whatever you want but you just need to figure out what the values will be. It's a linear graph so it's pretty easy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the Innovate unit actually use the O2 heater on the five-wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

s

Highrevs99

I am having trouble with my rpm converter . It reads too high and looks like its getting alot of interference . I do not have the inductive hookup so I am using the factory tach drive on the drivers side harness under the hood and I calibrated it using the sound card method from PC and tried both 1 pulse for every spark event and 2 pulses for every crankshaft rotation and still same results . Is there anybody that is getting there signal this way , I was starting to think the rpm converter is messed up .

Highrevs99

Come on would ya .

VTC_CiViC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Highrevs99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am having trouble with my rpm converter . It reads too high and looks like its getting alot of interference . I do not have the inductive hookup so I am using the factory tach drive on the drivers side harness under the hood and I calibrated it using the sound card method from PC and tried both 1 pulse for every spark event and 2 pulses for every crankshaft rotation and still same results . Is there anybody that is getting there signal this way , I was starting to think the rpm converter is messed up .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been having similar issues with my LM1 and the aux. RPM input. I have mine wired directly to the ECU and I get all kinds of erratic readings particularly at lower RPM.

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I want to know as well. I have S200B and I'll get one if this will work with the hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same...

Tbone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Same... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same what? I already said it works with hondata? I used mine again tonite. I'll see if steveL will do a basic writeup with detailed instructions for you guys. SteveL is going to be the next great hondata tunner

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Same what? I already said it works with hondata? I used mine again tonite. I'll see if steveL will do a basic writeup with detailed instructions for you guys. SteveL is going to be the next great hondata tunner </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes please....

Everyones saying that it works with Hondata...but not much more than that. I am on the brink of buying one as I type this.

PHiZ

there is some bad info in this thread, namely you CANNOT splice any wires on the O2 sensor. And why would you when a replacment sensor is 30 bucks from VW suppliers. Also, I wouldn't call it a UEGO kit, as AEM has really adopted that as the brand name for their product.

If you're RPM readings aren't working call up innovate and bitch at them.

-PHiZ

Tbone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is some bad info in this thread, namely you CANNOT splice any wires on the O2 sensor. And why would you when a replacment sensor is 30 bucks from VW suppliers. Also, I wouldn't call it a UEGO kit, as AEM has really adopted that as the brand name for their product.

If you're RPM readings aren't working call up innovate and bitch at them.

-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

Their talking about splicing the tach signal wire for rpm pickup , not the o2 wires.(I think)