slo88hatch

got a std mani, adapter plate, and t3 from a volvo. i tried to mount it and the wastegate hits the block. is there another way i can mount it to make it work?

Snafubmx234

Yes.

BEYAAAH

Some pictures might help your cause....

Or a little more explanation

89 crix si

its my buddies car, i havent seen it on the car, but he says that when he tries to mount it that the wastegate hits the block pretty bad. i dont even think that trimming the webbing would work. i mean, is there a way that he could make a new bracket for the wastegate or something? ill try to get some pics of it if i can. thanks for the replies guys

welfarepc

clock it. u can unbolt the **** and bolt it on at 180deg. boom.
Dan

da_dude

I believe he is having the t3 turbo facing the driver side? If that is the case then switch the turbo so the inlet of the turbo will face the passenger side.

slo88hatch

cant do that because the hot side of the turbo hits the dip stick

Got_soy

you have to use a smaller actuator or remote mount in to the block. i think you can also play with the bracket and get it to fit.

HiProfile

With a flat adapter plate, the compressor has to be on the drivers side. I think what the OP means is the wastegate <U>actuator</U> is hitting. If you look at an STR-4 turbo, the wastegate actuator's shaft has 2 bends in it. You'll have to try the same thing - moving the actuator bulb in front/above the compressor housing, and bend a 1/8-1/4" thick rod to make it work. It'd be much easier if you had a tap & die set to make threads, but you can get cheap sets for under $30.

Otherwise you can go the way the real ghetto HMT warriors go - with a chain. I've actually been toying around with the idea of a cable to relocate my actuators, since they already have very short shafts and won't fit where I want them.

If you know a good welder and buy another t3 flange, you can make this:

http://img337.imageshack.us/my...d.jpg

45 degree 2" sch40 elbow




Modified by HiProfile at 5:43 PM 3/22/2007