okay, I have about 4000 miles after the rebuild..I torqued the ARP studs to 63 ft/lb of torque....

yesterday, I decided to re-torque the studs, since I have a minor oil seepage from the area where the head meet the block, specifically around the frront pass corner of the block...

pulled the cams, t-belt, and torqued the studs to 69 ft/lb of torque with ARP moly lube.....

when I pulled all the nuts out, I didn't drain the oil and the coolant, so there were leakage of oil and coolant..makes sense, since the head is basically not pressed down on the block

so did all the good stuff....

change the oil and re-fill the coolant with water wetter and bar's leak....

started it...and let it idle, and as soon as the motor is running, there was a massive amount of coolant mixed with oil ( milky liquid) from the water pump area...

exactly where the head meet the block ON THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE area.....somewhere behind the timing belt cover....

I took the car for a few bosoted runs.... felt as same as before, but the leaks is getting worse and worse....more like a drip per second....it drips all around the oil pans and etc.,..but the main source was the area by the water pump..

I checked the oil, clear...no milky, radiator looks good....

so what is it ? could it be left over oil and coolant mix when I pulled the nuts of the studs off in the water jacket ? the problem is I left it at idle for 10 minutes and it never stops....

blown headgasket maybe ?

Also, on sunday, I was boosting off the first gear...car stalled out and shuts off...
start it back, it was fine, but my vacuum at idle drops down to 450 mmHG, from the usual 550mmHG. Idle is fine ~ 750 rpm

setup: GE sleeves, O-ring, stock headgasket, ,ARP head studs

TIA
stan

CLiff Notes:

pull the cams, re-tightened the head studs to 69 ft/lb with moly lube. Now I have a coolant/oil mixeed leaks from the water pump area


EDIT: NOT THE WATER PUMP SIDE, BUT FRONT DRIVER SIDE..(TOWARDS THE EXHAUST)


[Modified by Flamenco-T, 9:43 PM 10/31/2002]

 

when oil or water get on the headgasket, then its pretty much going to find its way out.

my guess: clean everything up GOOD and install new headgasket will fix it.

edit- thats just what i think - let some of the experts chime in.

 

even if the oil in the dipstick is clear ?

 

i dont know

that means that coolant is not entering oil...but coolant/oil can still be leaking past head no?

 

hmmm.... bad water pump and/or water pump seal?

 

u got the dowel pin on the block? my friend forgot to put his and it was leaking like how u explained.

 

well, I didn't take the head off to re-torque it....
and I never had the problem for 4000 miles, until I re-torque it..

stan

 

why did you pull all the nuts off to retorque the head? on my motorcycle you just torque them down more. never actually remove them...i was taught if you ever unbolt something like a headgasket, the gasket MUST be replaced automatically no questions asked.

 

If you removed the nuts to retorque I would replace the head gasket...

 

im thinking headgasket too..

i'm gonna take my suff over ther tomororw night and stan is gonna buy a HG tomorrow.. and we will pull the head and swap the gasket.. hopefully thats his problems..

if not.. you texas guys are gonna have to wait to get stan back..

*so starts the plot to keep stan in California*

 

well, I cleaned the area around the headgasket....
throughly cleaned it...take off the timing cover...

then start and let it idle...
and it's def coming from the corner on the front driver side....

not from any other area...

damn damn damn

 

well I was applying the moly lube on the head stud nuts...

I guess, ,I shouldn't huh ?

 

Change the head gasket and make sure you have the dowl pins in there. This sucks, now we have to wait.

 

I say change the headgasket also. When the gasket gets wet between the head and block, the wet spot acts like a channel. Like when u remove the oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket and u dont wipe dry the gasket and put it back like that, it starts to leak.

 

i think you do that when you 1st bolt down the head/gasket.

 

Yeah the moly lube would have still been on the threads...

 

okay, I guess we're confirm on headgasket, I am gonna let it cool now, ,and start taking the head off tonight and Jake can help me out tmw night to put the head gasket...

 

nah, it's still on schedule bubba

hehehe

 

should I use copper spray gasket too ?
and should i re-do the copper o-ring too ?
or use the same o-ing ?

anyone know the GE O-ring size ?



[Modified by Flamenco-T, 11:10 PM 10/31/2002]

 

It wouldn't hurt.

 

I know im late into this fiasco but daddy once told me that once the headbolts come loose and head is out that gasket must be replaced. Good to hear that's gonna be replaced.

When I first saw the post Im like.. damn he blew it already ? Good that's not the case

 

eventhough the head never came off ? I took the studs out, and at that point the weight of the head is the only pressure that held it to the block

 

update: pull the head off, * crossign my finger * that is the only problems

 

^-^ cuz i am having similiar problems...

 

hope everything is o.k.