problem with fully built engine, help ....
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problem with fully built engine, help ....
Alright, so i got my engine fully built, resleeved with darton solid deck, etc etc
here's the problem, after a while of driving the car, the overflow bottle would be all the fullllll, im talking like full full full
the car does not overheat what so ever tho ......
wait another problem, it also running on 3 cylinders after i drive it like an hour so
please help, i wanna cry now .....
here's the problem, after a while of driving the car, the overflow bottle would be all the fullllll, im talking like full full full
the car does not overheat what so ever tho ......
wait another problem, it also running on 3 cylinders after i drive it like an hour so
please help, i wanna cry now .....
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same exact thing happened to me, and lemme guess it shoots out of the overflow tank in boost?
i fixed it by: replacing headgasket, getting ARP headstuds.
What HG are you running now? Stock? Screw the copper and the felpro, get an OEM honda headgasket, coat it with copper spray. The correct technique for copper spray is 2-3 coats per side, let dry til tacky, then install.
should fix u right up i know your frustration man, when it was happenin to me i was like WTF?!?! and mine didnt overheat either!
i fixed it by: replacing headgasket, getting ARP headstuds.
What HG are you running now? Stock? Screw the copper and the felpro, get an OEM honda headgasket, coat it with copper spray. The correct technique for copper spray is 2-3 coats per side, let dry til tacky, then install.
should fix u right up i know your frustration man, when it was happenin to me i was like WTF?!?! and mine didnt overheat either!
#5
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Re: (C-Westin)
Were the block and head surfaces trued? (resurfaced) They should be relatively smooth and not show much in the way of machining marks.
OEM gaskets are a good way to go - as was mentioned.
OEM gaskets are a good way to go - as was mentioned.
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Re: (C-Westin)
i torqued mine down to stock spec with i believe is 62 or 61?? i dont remember... but i think ARP's are suppose to be torqued down to 71. dont quote me exactly but im almost sure.
the way mine are torqued the car is fine, and hasnt had any problems, just street tuned, and was on the dyno for about an hour tuning it. this is at 7 lbs or course. higher PSI might make a difference ?? not sure on that.
the way mine are torqued the car is fine, and hasnt had any problems, just street tuned, and was on the dyno for about an hour tuning it. this is at 7 lbs or course. higher PSI might make a difference ?? not sure on that.
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Re: (high boosted rex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by high boosted rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem and one of the sleeves dropped slighty, but it was puffing white smoke out the exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>
was urs blowing white smokes all the time ????
was urs blowing white smokes all the time ????
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Re: (SPOOLINmatt)
There is a thread on here, about the ARP studs people that have been using the torque specs. that ARP is giving and having issues with blowing head gaskets, I tried to find it but can't do a little searching, it solved all my problems
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