Boostfed

OK I got my car back up and running recently, it was dyno and tuned to 581.9whp and 381 ft-lb torque 28-29 psi B16A 84mm Full Race T67. Well I have driving it and it is great no hiccups or anything at part throttle. Well at full throttle at about 4800-5000 it limits the revs like hitting a brick wall, will not rev past that and also keeping in the throttle will buck really bad but it cuts out and in bucking. A friend touched my Hondata blue box earlier and the led flashed off and in real quickly so we though maybe something was loose, the only thing is the Ribbon wire from the box to the ecu, I checked it and doent seem to be any cuts or shorts in it. Sometimes it will let me pull all the way to redline at full boost but then next try it does the limiting at 4800-5000 again. Anyone experience this before? Could it be in the program? Blue box? Possibly just bad plugs? also when we datalogged when it rev limits the datalogging stops as well

Boostfed

4 views and NOONE has answered yet!!!!!!!! I though this was supposed to be Honda- Tech LOL! J/K Help!

Spunkster

You have a loose wire somewhere.

steroidguy

Let me know when you find out. My turbo gsr isnt cutting at 4800-5000 as well. Feels like a rev limiter....car just spudders and cuts. I havent been able to pinpoint it. No blue box here though.

steroidguy

typo....my gsr IS cutting

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steroidguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">typo....my gsr IS cutting</TD></TR></TABLE>
Feels alot like Boost cut option on Hondata. I had my boost cut at 5psi before and it was alot like this. I was told to try changing the ribbon out on mine from the blue box to the ecu, I will see if a friend let's me use his ribbon.

boosted hybrid

If you havent touched the rom/eeprom that is in your ecu here at my thoughts:

1. Your plugs could need to be changed, if you are hitting a brick wall its possible that you wore the electrode out (I have experienced this twice while tuning customers cars)

2. You have a break in a connection, whether it would be at the Hondata ribbon connection, or the OEM harness. If your blue box is staying lit, than the ribbon isnt the culprit. I would as the first step change the plugs.

shermanyang

iTrader: (1)

hey i had the same exact problem with my setup last week and no one on here was able to help me out. i got mad and changed my fuel lines and fuel filter since when it cuts out, my a/f gauge reads stoich to lean back and forth. did that and still the same results!! then i checked my hondata when driving and boosting to see if the led would flash...no flash either. it was starting to bother me so much...then i remembered that this happend to me at the dyno as well...and when it happend and we couldn't figure it out, we changed the plugs for some new ones and it went away. okay so after thinking about that...since i was on the highway and i had some 2 new sets of plugs, i pulled over and was about to change my plugs when i saw that i had a loose plug wire i plugged it back in and it boost fine and ran perfect again!! before i fixed it, it felt like a boost cut at 10psi, and sometimes it wouldn't even let me boost!! now i'm back at 15 and loving it. hope that helps.

95stangkillah

had the same problem, but "brick wall" was around 4000 RPM. Changed sparkplugs, but it was still there. THen i changed the IAC valve, which was old and dirty anyways. IT still came back for about two days, then it just dissapeared and hasn't come back yet. I'm running the afc hack, checked all the wires on that too. Still a mystery to me what really happened.

TurboTegB18c

When it starts cutting revs, will the revs still go up? Also, is this cutting happening at full throttle or partial throttle?

saso

check coils , wires, plugs. Are you getting interference.

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTegB18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When it starts cutting revs, will the revs still go up? Also, is this cutting happening at full throttle or partial throttle? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Revs will not go up! Not past that 5k it will hit it and basically cut out buyt if I keep the pedal to the floor it seems to want to go but BUCKS and cuts out. Once I did it and it pulled past 7k then it limited down back to 6k. It didn't do it all day today. Weird. Full throttle only FYI. Saso I have checked all the plug wires, dizzie , new cap and coil etc etc. Putting new plugs in in the morning when I do my oil change and coolant change.

TurboTegB18c

If it only does it on full throttle and not on part throttle, it has to be something wtih the ignition system. More then likely, it sounds like a spark plugs problem. It was doing the exact same thing on my buddies car, only full throttle. Turned out the gap on his plugs were too large .040". Keep us updated on how it works out.

Boostfed

Well I thought the problem wentg away but it did it tonight again! I changed the plugs today already, also any loose wires under the hood were redone, I have a new coil and plugs on the car already. MSD Digital Six, also a friend let me borrow his blue box and ribbon so will try that next, will also change the VTEC solenoid too since datalogging shows the pressure always on but the SPOOL Light comes on when VTEC is set to activate. The problems only occur when at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE! This is BUGGING ME!!!!!!!!!!

edit:I will also try taking the IAC valve off and clean that, will try everything to solve this! Datalogging did not show much when it happened excpet that TPS and injectors everything basically goes to 0 when this happens. HMMM?

20lb.teg

Hey terry do you still have your 4b and if so, do you have the clutch switch on that for the 3 step feature? Check that out because if I breathe too hard on my clutch it will kick in my launch control rev limit at about 7800 and it feels adn acts exactlly like what you say, if i take my foot all the way away from the clutch pedal and run it it will go all the way up; however, it can happen. The clutch switch is a real pain in the *** to adjust, not really a hard thing, just mainly a pain in the ***. If you can't get it, let shad mess with it, he'll figure it out. Hope this helps.

Later,

Sean C.

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20lb.teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey terry do you still have your 4b and if so, do you have the clutch switch on that for the 3 step feature? Check that out because if I breathe too hard on my clutch it will kick in my launch control rev limit at about 7800 and it feels adn acts exactlly like what you say, if i take my foot all the way away from the clutch pedal and run it it will go all the way up; however, it can happen. The clutch switch is a real pain in the *** to adjust, not really a hard thing, just mainly a pain in the ***. If you can't get it, let shad mess with it, he'll figure it out. Hope this helps.

Later,

Sean C.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sean NOPE! That ain't it! I have a Stage 2B with datalogging only, the launch control wasn't an option until Stage 3 then. DAMN you got me exited! BLEH! I dunno I think Shad is pissed at me.

steroidguy

well listen bro my gsr does the same ****....spudders and bucks at 4800 but if i disconnect the vtec solonoid i can take it to redline.....no cels whatsoever either. Only happened when i installed the turbo kit

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steroidguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well listen bro my gsr does the same ****....spudders and bucks at 4800 but if i disconnect the vtec solonoid i can take it to redline.....no cels whatsoever either. Only happened when i installed the turbo kit</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is intermittent for me sometime sI can pull to redline sometimes I can't. Did it REV LIMIT YOU? Would not let you go past 4800?

E46M3CB

Thank god i frequent this forum often. I am experiencing the same problems as u guys but I'm still n/a

here's my situation:

2 days after having my sound system installed my vtec isn;t working properly.
here's whats happening:

in all the gears, from 5800 - 6200 vtec will kick in fine, then it will stop, my rpms won;t go any higher ther 6200 my car bogs as if its losing power, then it kicks in again going up to 7000 and at 7100 or so same thing happens again, it;s as if i have a rev limiter or something, car bogs and it won;t go pass 7100 even at full throttle no response, then vtec kick in again and i have power.

According to my vafc, vtec signal is consistently on, it never turns off even when teh car bogs and the rpm stops where ever its at.

I've checked, my oil level and its fine, also doubled chk my fuel and all and everything is ok...

any suggestions?

TurboTegB18c

Damn dude, i just remebered. It could be the digital 6. I've had problems with it in the past. My digital 6 went bad on me 2 times, but currently no problems at at. Try bypassing the digital 6. What coil are you running?

DaveF

not that this will help or anything but..

i had a 96 civic coupe with a gsr swap. , the owner of the car had the timing WAY advanced. i retarded the timing a bit. and the 4500-5500 rpm "rev limit" went away......the car would only do it at wot. but when at partial throttle the problem wouldnt occur.

i think the problem lies in your ignition system. goodluck with it.

alpha

Can't see too good right now so I will keep my post short. Have you tried changing out your ignitor chip?

E46M3CB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't see too good right now so I will keep my post short. Have you tried changing out your ignitor chip?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ignitor chip? where's that? i just replaced my cap and rotor if that matters

alpha

That's not your problem then. I will post some pictures but We-Todd is down right now and Yahoo! Photos is too slow.

maddog20

Try some OEM plug wires. I have heard of people picking up some RF from aftermarket wires and the OEM resolved this.