Well this maybe obvious to others and a stupid question but I figure I will go over it anyways. Pro10 install is on a 95 obd1 honda accord with internal coil... p28 ecu. Crane coil and T1 harness.

Basically I have a general idea what I need to do. On the T1 harness. Of course your obvious ones. Red to battery +, black on that same leg of harness to battery ground. Blue single wire leg goes to oem blue wire for tach.

Less than obvious. The silver and black leads on the same leg together, those I know go inside to the ecu. Silver goes to A25 from the pinout I am looking at of the P28. Black goes to A21. My questions is though. Do I cut the wire from A21 and run only to the pro10 or so I tee into it and leave the wire still connected to existing. Same with A25, tee into it or cut it completely run it to only the pro10?

Inside the dizzy, remove the coil obviously and can I just depin the connector/ remove the leads all together from the connector? What about the ignitor, remove it completely and can I do the same?

 

cut the wire completely
T1 Race Development Pro 10 Harness instructions


1. Mount ignition box and coil on passenger side, away from main wire harness. Usually between the shock tower and headlight is the best location.
2. Big red and black wires go directly to the battery, it’s very important that these are good clean connections.
3. Small black and white wires go inside car to ECU. Black wire goes to pin A21 – ICM on an obd1 harness. The black wire goes directly into the ecu, and cut the old wire that used to go in, it is no longer used. The white wire needs to be tee’d into pin A25 – IGP2 on an obd1 harness. This is the switched 12v signal that turns the ignition box on.
4. The small blue wire is the tach signal ouput from the ignition box. This will tap into the dark blue wire on your distributor and provide the signal for the factory tach to work.
5. The short harness with the black and silver wires goes to the coil. Black is ground and silver is positive.

If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call.

Thanks
T1 Race Development
214-607-9022

http://www.t1raceparts.com/index.php...catid=19&id=15

 

Ok great, thank you. Cut A21, but tee into A25.

Leaves only my questions about what do I do with the coil and ignitor inside the dizzy, remove them both from what I read. Then can I de-pin the oem dizzy connector of the wires feeding them to remove those wires so they are not just hanging inside the dizzy?

 

on mine i just zipped tied them out of the way.

 

How about pinouts for OBD2 please? For some reason the tach is going crazy and sometimes it the engine cuts out. What could it be?

 

I might just do that, tape them off to insulate the ends just in case and zip tie them out of the way for now. Just wait to depin them from the harness at a later date.

Thank again, I somehow lost the instruction sheet and Windows 7 did not like the .doc format of the linked one above so it came up all symbols and whatnot (guess I could have PDF converted it real quick but I did not think about it till after I posted).

 

Just to update, installed and working GREAT!

 

This is so crazy. I just started a thread about this exact same question in the drag racing section. I had searched and didnt really find the information that I needed. I actually called and spoke to someone from T1 earlier this afternoon.

Subscribed!

 

Op- Can you post a pic of which pinouts you pinned your wires into? Also what wiring diagram did you use to refer to?