tommy.

anybody have pics?

y7turbo

http://www.homemadeturbo.com does

tommy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y7turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.homemadeturbo.com does</TD></TR></TABLE>
looked there already

nerdsports

there are 9 setups w/ 14bs on HMT. next time, take 2 seconds to search.............

exotik4doorcivic

this is in my 2300 lb 4 door civic dx

ENGINE
d16z6
14b turbo w/ hf manifold and mainfold heat shield
2.5 inch intercooler piping
2.5 inch test pipe
thermal cat-back
spearco intercooler
apex'i vafc2 controller
dsm 450cc injectors
monza bov
autometer a/f gauge and boost gauge
greddy turbo timer
ngk plugs gapped at .30
msd blaster 2 coil
msd external cap

act stage 2 clutch
act 12lb flywheel
b&m short shifter

I Have an STD

why dont u get some proper engine management before you blow up your 2300 lb 4 door civic dx??

exotik4doorcivic

at least im not running an fmu...im only running 7lbs, and it was tuned by intec racing, i dont plan on going higher until i get better mangement

rice a roni

iTrader: (1)

is there someway to machine off that little alignment mark on the 14b turbo and turn it so that you dont have to make that massive bend to the intercooler?

CRXdan

You coudl probably file or grind it off, but I dont know what ud do about the wastegate mount.

rice a roni

iTrader: (1)

weld a different mount? oh and for the oil feed and return..cant you just reverse the flanges? the oil flow is only by gravity right? so if i turn the turbo upside down...the oil will still flow back into the oil pan right?

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's ****'s car. He ran a 13.6 in that car, full interior stock d16z6. Not too shabby if you ask me. Especially for a budget setup.

Simple SOHC

Spoolin Performance Log A/C Compatible Manifold, Charge Pipes, and Downpipe w/ Open Dumptube

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exotik4doorcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">at least im not running an fmu...im only running 7lbs, and it was tuned by intec racing, i dont plan on going higher until i get better mangement</TD></TR></TABLE>


errr... what on earth is wrong w/ an FMU setup on a 14b turbo setup? Deffinaly on a stock SOHC...

I ran a FMU setup for many years w/ no issues. InlinePro also used FMU setups and hacks.

Any form of Engine managment will blow your motor if you dont set it up correctly.

I'm all for an FMU setup as long as its done right and on a stock motor.
(no, it wont supply enough fuel for a 2.0 LSvtec and 28psi of boost , but for a basic turbo setup it works great)

rainmanEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMs1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


errr... what on earth is wrong w/ an FMU setup on a 14b turbo setup? Deffinaly on a stock SOHC...

I ran a FMU setup for many years w/ no issues. InlinePro also used FMU setups and hacks.

Any form of Engine managment will blow your motor if you dont set it up correctly.

I'm all for an FMU setup as long as its done right and on a stock motor.
(no, it wont supply enough fuel for a 2.0 LSvtec and 28psi of boost , but for a basic turbo setup it works great)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo!!

I also agree that there is nothing wrong with a FMU on a lower boost smaller turbo setup!

Eric

Simple SOHC

Nothing wrong with an FMU if you're on a very tight budget. You'll just run fairly rich and won't make the same power as you would if you were tuned.

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing wrong with an FMU if you're on a very tight budget. You'll just run fairly rich and won't make the same power as you would if you were tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really. With an FMU you run rich as you go into boost and lean out up top no matter how little of boost you are running. The FMU only increases fuel pressure based on boost pressure. So, if you get to 8psi by 3000 RPM it will increase the pressure to that much and maintain that same pressure all the way until redline. The increase is usually too much for 3000RPM and too little for 7500RPM, which is when you lean out, heat things up, and your engine takes a dump.

Seriously, with the free tuning options out there these days there is no excuse to run an FMU. Run one if you wish, but know that you will make more power and it will be much safer for the same amount or less if you run a program like Uberdata or crome.

Good luck!

P.S. I'm not trying to hate on anyone, I'm just stating what I've seen and experienced.

JDMs1eeper

well thats why i said it doesnt work for everyone.

your stock injectors at a given rail pressure will be efficent enough to support X' amount of HP. at 0vac/0psi your 240cc injectors are supporting near stock HP numbers. As boost pressure increases.. so does the effeciency of the injector.

As pressures increase the injector is breaking the fuel dropplets up into smaller droplets. This better atomization leads to better vaporization wich leads to more efficent burn, more heat, more power that it can support. At a higher rail pressure the cumbustion is now using close to the same volume of fuel but mainly its useing MORE of the fuel that is being sprayed due to the better atomization/vaporization.

You know the "soot" you see in your exhaust and exhaust ports? that is unburnt fuel, fuel that "could have" been applied as heat/energy.

I used to run a 90psi base pressure on my 84mm LSvtec w/ 11psi of boost. I had 440cc injectors and made 366whp 274ftlbs w/ no dumptube. (meaning i could have picked up an extra 20-30whp easily) That setup actualy got 35mpg and idled/drove awesome. When i switched to 1,000's w/ 55psi base, I had the same AFR tune yet my MPG dropped to 21mpg. So a little tip on gas milage is to size your injectors for your HP goal but do it w/ like 65-70psi as your base

But yeah, back on track.

If your motor is more effiecent then the FMU can support then it isnt for you. But it works great on SOHC's and stock LS's. It even works well on stock B16's and GSR's with 5-6psi of boost.

On a modded engine the FMU will NOT be enough to supply fuel. Example... my 2.0LSvtec took 90psi base pressure on 440's just to support 366whp. They were on the ragged edge. At a stock 43.5 rail psi, they can support about 253hp.

look at it like this, 240cc injectors + X amount of pressure will support X amount of HP. If your motor is too effiecnt to to be supported by this FMu device then it isnt for you unless you up to a larger injector and use something to control idle. Its perfectly fine for stock setups tho and i stand by taht. If your on a budget, go for it but do it right.

Ive ran the following on FMu setups

D15B7 @ 6psi 14b turbo - 3 months
D16A6 @ 6psi T25 turbo -3 months
D16z6 @ 8psi 14b turbo (ran 14.8 @ 98 on 6psi) - 6 months
B20b @ 7psi w/ 14b turbo (haha!) - 3 weeks
B20b @ 10psi w/ t70 turbo (ran 12.7 @ 111) - 9 months
B18b @ 6psi - 8psi w/ T04E T4 (ran 13.0 @ 106) - 1 year
upped boost to 8psi (ran 12.6 @ 107, slicks)
Also made 244whp and 200ftlbs w/ 8.5psi on the dyno
upped boost to 10psi (ran 12.2 @ 108.7 on slicks) - 2 months

NEVER had a problem on any of these motors. thats... 2 years . 9 months of FMU setups w/ no issues...

after that i switched to Uberdata and 440cc's on a couple built LS setups
then switched to uberdata and 1000's on a 2.0 LSvtec and a 84mm LS. both at 26psi of boost.

Ive used FMU's and the 3 reasons i see why peopel blow up is...
#1- Use incorrect base timing
#2- Get boost happy and boost past what the FMU can support
#3- 87/89oct gas or too hot of spark plugs


FMU check list:
Check AFR's w/ wideband
Set base timing back .75 per /lb of boost you plan to run. 6psi = 4.5* retard
Check plugs for knock and retard time as needed. To be safe you cwould set it back 1* per psi. = 6psi=6* retard
You can also see what plugs you should be running by checking your plugs. Check for the heat mark on the ground strap to be at the bend of the strap. If the mark is close to the base, that means too hot.. get a colder plug. If the Mark is too close to the straps end, its cold. Get a warmer plug.
-Also put a gap on your plugs to about .030 to start off with
-Get the Walbro255 HP pump
-Get a missing link


Happy Boosting
my $.02 cents




Modified by JDMs1eeper at 11:09 PM 4/21/2006

CRXdan

Rotating the compressor housing has no effect on the oil drain/return. Teh center section remains in the sam eposition.

i really dont see how its an inconvience to use this turbo. For my freinds d15b we used the stock dsm outlet pipe with a 2" 90 degree pvc rubber coupler at a home and garden store for $12. From there on it was a piece of cake.

wpgcivic

shitty pic but o well



14.1 @ 102 stock block

tommy.

Any quarter mile times? Nice manifold

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6b0i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any quarter mile times? Nice manifold </TD></TR></TABLE>

D16z6 @ 6psi 14b turbo w/ a 2.5, 60ft I ran 14.8 @ 98

JDM_Risa

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Spoolin Performance Log A/C Compatible Manifold, Charge Pipes, and Downpipe w/ Open Dumptube
</TD></TR></TABLE>

SpoolinPerformance...budget boost...

Simple SOHC

On the street from a 20mph roll I broke even with my friends Camaro SS that ran 13.4 at the track. Never got to take my car to the track or dyno before the accident.

Forgot...8psi on stock wg...tuned with Crome by Brandon at RedZone


Modified by Simple SOHC at 1:03 PM 4/22/2006

CRXdan

13.4@106mph @10-11psi on a d16a1 in a 87 crx
street tires.

nudvl

Any other pics? I need more ideas