Just wanted to let everyone my know experience plugging my oil squirters.

I spent 12 dollars and purchased Golden Eagle oil squirter plugs form my b series to try and recoup some lost oil pressure caused by my oil cooler. I did gain approximately 5 psi after the install so made up for my loss .

Installation is not too bad and can be done simply by dropping the down-pipe and oil pan and clocking the crank till you expose the squirters. I wish I spent the extra money and went V-band for the down-pipe to begin with... i hate dropping my turbo with my down-pipe. Get Vband!

Here is an interesting side effect with blocking the oil squirters:

It now takes more than 3 times longer to warm up my engine! This is a side effect because the oil isn't being heated directly by being splashed on the underside of the piston. Thank goodness i have an auto-start feature on my alarm.

 

interesting. thanks for the info. I just drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT plugs becasue it was cheaper and faster, but you can't do it to a running motor like you did. Is it $12 for all 4?

 

11.99 total for all 4...
8ft/lbs and red locktite for installation

 

Are there any bad side effects from doing this or is it worth doing? I'm at the stage of rebuilding the motor and wonder if I should do it or not. Dont want to blow the motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lupin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any bad side effects from doing this or is it worth doing? I'm at the stage of rebuilding the motor and wonder if I should do it or not. Dont want to blow the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definitely worth doing:


Plugging the oil squirters has the following benefits:

1) Raises oil pressure( so decreases parasitic losses)
2) less oil clings to the bottom of the pistons(slightly less mass on a reciprocating part frees up even more parasitic losses)

As far as reliability concerned plugging the squirters shouldn't make a difference in most applications as long as the rings were gaped correctly, you run the appropriate piston to wall tolerances, run low silicon forged pistons, and have your engine tuned appropriately.

 

Remember, not for use with stock cast pistons.
BTW, squirter plugs also help volume as well as pressure available.

 

So its a good idea if your running forged pistons?

BillB

 

I did mine the super ghetto way. I was in a rush, and frankly didn't know about this option. I have an ls crank and pistons in a gsr block, so I wound up clipping the oil squirters with some snips, figuring it would crush them closed before actually cutting through. I did it because the ls rods squirt oil upward already, and the pistons didn't clear the squirters. Hope it wasn't too bad for the motor. I'm not too smart, just know enough to get by. I DID search around for some bolts to cap them first w/ no luck. next time I'll think of Golden Eagle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember, not for use with stock cast pistons.
BTW, squirter plugs also help volume as well as pressure available.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good points Earl.

I would also think twice about plugging my oil squirters if I was builing an endurance all motor track car with high silicon forged pistons(rather than the low silicon forged CP's Earl sold to me)

 

So I'm waiting on my CP's being shipped, is it better to run without the oil squirters on a turbo motor thats going to be used on the road & tracks + 1/4's?

I thought the oil squirters cooled the pistons to help with det??

BillB

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It now takes more than 3 times longer to warm up my engine! This is a side effect because the oil isn't being heated directly by being splashed on the underside of the piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure thats not caused by your oil cooler?

 

good call

 

I have the same squirters from GE awaiting install. Thats crazy the car takes that long to warm up now haha. What oil pressure are you experiencing now?

 

i always though oil squirters were there to provide superior lubrication to the crank?

IMO taking em off will be harmful. any feedback on this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you sure thats not caused by your oil cooler?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of coarse the 2 extra quarts of oil are going to prolong the warm up process. I installed the oil cooler a while ago. I was citing the changes caused by plugging the squirters alone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BillB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I'm waiting on my CP's being shipped, is it better to run without the oil squirters on a turbo motor thats going to be used on the road & tracks + 1/4's?

I thought the oil squirters cooled the pistons to help with det??

BillB</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SAMIboarder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did mine the super ghetto way. I was in a rush, and frankly didn't know about this option. I have an ls crank and pistons in a gsr block, so I wound up clipping the oil squirters with some snips, figuring it would crush them closed before actually cutting through. I did it because the ls rods squirt oil upward already, and the pistons didn't clear the squirters. Hope it wasn't too bad for the motor. I'm not too smart, just know enough to get by. I DID search around for some bolts to cap them first w/ no luck. next time I'll think of Golden Eagle.</TD></TR></TABLE>


cheap way to do it is smash the ends and spot weld it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BillB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I'm waiting on my CP's being shipped, is it better to run without the oil squirters on a turbo motor thats going to be used on the road & tracks + 1/4's?

I thought the oil squirters cooled the pistons to help with det??

BillB</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you need the extra oil pressure than yes, if not than no.

I specifically plugged my oil squirters because I chose to run an oil cooler which caused me to loose oil pressure. I felt more comfortable increasing my oil pressure back because of my looser clearances.

I would have chosen to leave my squirters in without the oil cooler installation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here is an interesting side effect with blocking the oil squirters:

It now takes more than 3 times longer to warm up my engine! This is a side effect because the oil isn't being heated directly by being splashed on the underside of the piston. Thank goodness i have an auto-start feature on my alarm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cough Cough Oil Thermostat Not Needed HUH Cough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It now takes more than 3 times longer to warm up my engine! This is a side effect because the oil isn't being heated directly by being splashed on the underside of the piston. Thank goodness i have an auto-start feature on my alarm. </TD></TR></TABLE>


ohh ****.....when my built block goes in i don't know what im gonna do....the girlie already bitches about my car being cold when we first get in it (in the winter)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cough Cough Oil Thermostat Not Needed HUH Cough </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I lived in a colder place an oil thermostat would be a good idea. I live in florida and the oil cooler really doesn't do much of any cooling when the car is not moving. What the biggest problem is is the larger oil pan/oil cooler lines creating more oil volume to cool. An oil thermostat might be a good idea if you configre it closer to the filter to bypass all of the oil lines.

Before I plugged the oil squirters the oil thermostat didn't seem like it was needed... after the extended warm up it is looking like a better option.

 

Don't forget that running an oil cooler is much harder on your oil pump because of the extra volume and restrictions brought on by the heat exchanger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget that running an oil cooler is much harder on your oil pump because of the extra volume and restrictions brought on by the heat exchanger.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. I debating using an oil cooler for some time because of this exact same reason.

My oil temperatures were out of control when boosting heavily around town though 245-255F and I hating changing my oil all the time.(15-50W Mobile 1 synthetic shears easier than 10-30W).

If I was building a straight up drag car I would definetely not use the oil cooler. But I prefer keeping my oil temps around 210-230F max for reliability and power reasons. I subscribe to circle track and they cited how the best power is made when oil temps are consistant 220-230F to keep vavle springs cool is crucial to having consistent seat pressures.

 

I've been thinking about using a oil cooler but I'd have to run a thermostat as its not so warm in the UK normally

My cars going to be used on the road but also for track days on race circuits & for 1/4 miles + the hard bit 1.25mile straight line runs for top speed testing

So with CP's (good quality forged pistons) are the oil squirters going to help with stopping detonation? The 1.25mile run is gona be full throttle for a long time thats my worry for my build so does anyone know which way is gona be best for me?

Sorry to steal the post a little.

BillB

 

If you are melting a CP, no amout of oil you can squirt from a tiny nozzle is going to help you. It can go to an aluminum distorting temp within a few seconds.