Please Help turbo Starvation.
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From: Oceanside, Ca, US
I have a 2000 civic Si with a fresh B16A2 rebuild.
I rebuilt my engine and turbo 1500 miles ago before I took off the turbo and found out it gave out on me due to oil starvation.
My b16 got a 3 angle valve job, new guides and stock gsr cams. The bottom end got bored out to can't remember the spec ( 81.xxmm) with Wisco pistons, crower rods, acl race bearings, new Honda head gasket, oil pump, timing belt, water pump, etc.. ( all new seals n gaskets)
My turbonetics t3/t4 57 trim had a little shaft play so I had a shop do the rebuild.
So rebuilt engine and rebuilt turbo.
During the first 30 miles I noticed smoke from the exhaust, nothing big but it was there. I notice the smoke more and more. Mostly noticeable when I cam to a stop and when I drove it smoked till the point where I just smoked at all times. I thought it was the rings that was the issue, but it was the turbo causing the smoke due to oil starvation.
The shop that rebuilt my turbo said that was the cause. I just picked up my turbo, 2nd rebuild in 1500 miles.
I would like to know what might have caused the oil starvation. I don't want to install the turbo only to damage it again. I was told to check my oil pump, but it's a new pump and if it was the pump my head would of gotten damage. I checked my oil line for any damages or clogs, nothing. I would like to know what to look for. I would like to fix the cause before I install the turbo. I have a mishimoto sandwich plate, one line to the turbo the other to an oil pressure gauge. I will add another oil pressure gauge at the turbo to see what the pressure is at the turbo and not the block. Thanks for your help.
I rebuilt my engine and turbo 1500 miles ago before I took off the turbo and found out it gave out on me due to oil starvation.
My b16 got a 3 angle valve job, new guides and stock gsr cams. The bottom end got bored out to can't remember the spec ( 81.xxmm) with Wisco pistons, crower rods, acl race bearings, new Honda head gasket, oil pump, timing belt, water pump, etc.. ( all new seals n gaskets)
My turbonetics t3/t4 57 trim had a little shaft play so I had a shop do the rebuild.
So rebuilt engine and rebuilt turbo.
During the first 30 miles I noticed smoke from the exhaust, nothing big but it was there. I notice the smoke more and more. Mostly noticeable when I cam to a stop and when I drove it smoked till the point where I just smoked at all times. I thought it was the rings that was the issue, but it was the turbo causing the smoke due to oil starvation.
The shop that rebuilt my turbo said that was the cause. I just picked up my turbo, 2nd rebuild in 1500 miles.
I would like to know what might have caused the oil starvation. I don't want to install the turbo only to damage it again. I was told to check my oil pump, but it's a new pump and if it was the pump my head would of gotten damage. I checked my oil line for any damages or clogs, nothing. I would like to know what to look for. I would like to fix the cause before I install the turbo. I have a mishimoto sandwich plate, one line to the turbo the other to an oil pressure gauge. I will add another oil pressure gauge at the turbo to see what the pressure is at the turbo and not the block. Thanks for your help.
I put this up for people that are trying to diagnose their problems. typically oil starvation issues come from too much of a restriction in the oil inlet, rebuild with too lose of an journal bearing tolerance, or "coking" of the turbo, meaning that the oil used was garbage (Mobil 1 comes to mind) and reached thermal breakdown so quickly that it reached its flash point and turned into carbon.
For others that want to know more information about other areas of failure, read below..


For others that want to know more information about other areas of failure, read below..


First thing would check is the drain, is it kinked or clogged.
Next thing is flow of oil to the turbo. Disconnect the TURBO side of the oil feed line, place it inside a bucket/clear jug. Have a friend (dont try this alone your not fast enough) start the engine and shoot the oil into the container and youll get a very good sence if you have good flow at the inlet, it should spit a quart of oil out quite fast, within 3-4 seconds.
Topping off a bit extra oil before doing the test would be ideal, dont run it to under 3 quarts.
Next thing is flow of oil to the turbo. Disconnect the TURBO side of the oil feed line, place it inside a bucket/clear jug. Have a friend (dont try this alone your not fast enough) start the engine and shoot the oil into the container and youll get a very good sence if you have good flow at the inlet, it should spit a quart of oil out quite fast, within 3-4 seconds.
Topping off a bit extra oil before doing the test would be ideal, dont run it to under 3 quarts.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
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From: Oceanside, Ca, US
The drain was not clogged and the oil return line was good. I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic, what oil should I use instead? I'll have a friend help me to see if there is enough oil going to the turbo. Also, I was not using a restrictor. Is one recommended? If so, what size.
The drain was not clogged and the oil return line was good. I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic, what oil should I use instead? I'll have a friend help me to see if there is enough oil going to the turbo. Also, I was not using a restrictor. Is one recommended? If so, what size.
-Check oil pressure at the oil line itself, or even a standard pressure guage. Anything over 75psi-80psi of oil pressure requires a .060" restrictor. With people shimming oil pumps or using electrical sumps to increase oil pressure on older hondas, this is a factor to seriously consider
-Check oil return.. Like in the literature I posted, its not enough to just make sure that the oil line isn't kinked. You have to make sure it doesn't slope upward before going into the pan, or use any 90 degree return fittings off of the return flange.. If any are on there, remove them
- Check center cartridge. Make sure the center section is completely vertical from center. Even as little as 20 degrees pointing towards the radiator or the block can cause these smoking issues.
-Lastly, you're not sure how the rebuild went.. It may be "within specs", but not necessarily in the best manner during the rebuild (we'll never know that, which is why I put this last).
Check that list I showed. You have some checking to do.
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