ogda9

I have an obd0 b18b engine that I plan on tearing apart and building for boost then dropping it into a clean DA that I find later on down the road. I should have kept it obd1 but I was lazy when doing the swap and wanted to start driving so i just used all the electricals from the DA I dropped it in. The engine itself has about 80,xxx miles, I bought it from my local importer and had the paperwork showing that the engine only had about 60,000 miles when i bought it. I have a separate daily so I am in no rush to build the engine, I'd say I plan on doing it over the course of the year hopefully finishing it by April 2017. My goal [I]for now[I] is only about 275-300hp. I understand that I can run about 300hp safely on a stock bottom end but i know that later down the road i'll want to turn up the boost and might as well start off doing the engine build properly to avoid ruining anything. I've read up on posts for the past month and most just seem to suggest a stock bottom end with head work to get to the 300hp mark. I've also seen posts where people want to make it all happen with a 1500 budget and expect it to be reliable. I don't have an exact budget due to the fact that I haven't seen many posts where people actually tear the engine apart and build it for boost, but I understand that a build will be costly and I can be looking at a pretty large figure. I plan on getting the head ported and polished, getting new cams, valves, valve springs.. the whole thing. Head work is your best friend for an LS-Turbo. The bottom end will also get work done to it. I plan on piecing together my own turbo kit, using a 50 trim turbo and other reputable brand name parts. I would just like to know if anyone could maybe tell me their set ups or direct me to a thread where I could see someone's build. For now I plan on getting anywhere from 275-300 hp, but I know that I will want to turn up the boost and re-tune. I do plan on using it as a daily once it is done and taking it down to the track on weekends. I appreciate any and all help. I apologize if I haven't searched enough.

LightningTeg

You don't need to do anything to the motor for 300whp assuming its healthy. If you want more down the road, even 350 or so I would say screw it and leave the motor alone. Beyond that itd be a good idea to get some cams and valve train to make the power and forged rods/pistons to support it

BoostAndBoobs

Get some quality rod bolts. LS rod bolts are much weaker and fail more often than the vtec models. Theyre not 100% necessary but worth it. Especially at higher power levels.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Am I reading it right were you are suggesting 350whp on a 100% stock motor?

ogda9

Let's say I were to ultimately shoot for 400, what internals should I be taking into consideration? I just want to build it from the start so I can feel confident that it won't blow up on me. Knowing myself I'll start craving more power. At some point I assume I will have to give up on using it as a daily if I crave more power. I just want to come up with some sort of monetary figure to start planning and prioritizing what I need in what order. Any and all help is appreciated!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Up to about 320-350whp maximum safe limit.

And forget the rod bolts. . You gonna tear it down, then rebuild worth aftermarket. . Don't waste time with swapping out bolts on OEM rods.. placebo effect takes over.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I'm confused. 350whp is the maximum safe limit yet I was told this exact thing a little over a year ago.

So what has changed in stock LS motors this past year to make them handle more power?

Geis

That's pretty nitpicky even by my standards.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Not really, two totally different statements.

So now with a good tune one can safely run a stock LS to 350whp?

ogda9

Since you don't think a stock ls engine can handle that much power stock.. What do you suggest be done to it? I want to hear everyone's opinion before i make a definite choice.

Geis

He doesn't know any better than the people who are telling you the limits. Like seriously man, nitpicking over 320-350 because he said 3-320 before? What if you went for 340 and failed, and someone with an identical condition motor had 350 and it survived for years?

Bottom line: keep it in the low 300s until you are ready to start going higher and upgrading your internals.

2kdrift

Nothing with the motor has changed just more ppl pushing the limits, besides not all dynos read the same.

I would say anything over 300HP is no longer ins the "safe zone" but has it been done ? yes of course

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...cial*-2036623/

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

What point are you trying to make? Obviously if my motor failed I would take him to civil court and sue him.



Point I'm making is when you give information then stick with it. Otherwise how will someone be willing to trust what you say? Consistency man...consistency.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I get this and it isn't the point. I've been down the road of pushing motors' limits. Had one last for a good while before cracking some rings and turning into a mosquito sprayer and I had one that ended up sounding like a piggy bank when you rotated it on the stand.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There is no complete notion of consistency. .especially when tuning methods, turbo kit assembly, general maintanence of the engine, and different dynos read differently. That's why there is a RANGE of power that is within maximum safe limits, given that there are so many variables.

And good luck with suing someone for a failed motor from tuning it.. any legitimate facility will have you sign a waiver of liability. If you don't sign, they don't tune. . And the good facilities will never push to maximum safe limits. . So, give yourself no more than about 300whp.

Suing..hehe. . Never works without a LOT of information. . Ask me how I know.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I thought the sarcasm in my post was thick enough to cut with a knife.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I suck at online sarcasm without seeing an anecdotal lead off . That should work next time. .

ogda9

I want to build the bottom end and do work to the head, my goal is reliability with a decent amount of hp gain. I know the stock Jdm b18b is pushing about 150hp.. So even getting to 270hp would be enough for me knowing that it will be reliable.. I want to build it so IF in the future i decide to retire it from being a dd and decide to keep it as a track car I won't have to pull it apart again. I was planning on getting stronger rods, pistons, rod bolts.. Keeping the crank the same since I know it can handle.. I want to get some crower 402-t's, since i've heard that they're good for the power i'm going for as of now.. If in the future i need stronger cams, i could get 404 cams.. I'll port and polish the head.. Port and polish my skunk2 intake mani to match.. Get a valve job.. Upgrade the valves, springs and retainers.. Basically the whole head will get work done.. I just havent decided on what work I should do to the bottom end. Not too sure what pistons are best.. Some threads aren't helpful since people tend to keep the bottom end stock.. I still have time to research before i start any work. I'm not in any rush. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks again guys!

LightningTeg

Sounds like a good plan. The 402ts probably great for 400-450whp and keeping good mid range. The 404s are really needed if you want 500+ but you'll sacrifice drive ability.

Geis

You literally can't go wrong with practically any piston/rod combo if we're talking aftermarket, especially if it's forged. Nippons I've heard are good up to about 500, and are pretty cheap since they are cast.

kwade9015

So the b18b JDM is stock 170 HP?

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Let me google that for you

kwade9015

Lmfao that's funny. I was asking cause someone in this thread said it was stock 170.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Where and who?

jalenda9

Yeah man for that power goal stock is okay. But if you want to be on the safe side, do what I'm doing and go forged h-beams and some Nippon pistons along with arp headstuds. Make sure your piston to wall gap and ring gap is good and grind them if you have too. You really don't have to mess with the compression ratio too much but that's going to be up to you. As far as head work goes, a pnp on a ls will always be better in the end over stock but if you want to make power with up top your probably going to want a vtec head only because from my understanding if they are port and polished they will outflow a port and polished ls head. But for your goal you don't really need to upgrade the head. Just make sure you run some arp headstuds. I'm in the same boat Shooting for 300whp in a 93 da. gl man