I've been thinking lately about tuning, timing more in particular. I've been told and read alot that larger bores and lower compression motors like timing more than its precursor. So if this is the case how would you go about tuning for this change? Or is this saying more geared toward the fact that these are usually forged internals and can take more timing?

Also, if you dont have access to a steady state dyno, how can you go about tuning the timing maps for wot at different rpms? Or is that about the same as trying to tune timing on the street?

 

thought i would get a better response

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been thinking lately about tuning, timing more in particular. I've been told and read alot that larger bores and lower compression motors like timing more than its precursor. So if this is the case how would you go about tuning for this change?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought about that too and posted something similar. It's true a larger bore and lower compression needs more timing, but the response I got was even going from a 1.8L to a 2.0L you really don't need too. That was from Dave (Suprdave) from Whipfactory. If you want you can add maybe a degree or 2 but that's nothing in the long run.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or is this saying more geared toward the fact that these are usually forged internals and can take more timing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummmm...forged internals have nothing to do with timing. Just because they are stonger doesn't mean that they can take more timing .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, if you dont have access to a steady state dyno, how can you go about tuning the timing maps for wot at different rpms? Or is that about the same as trying to tune timing on the street?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't have a stready state dyno you can use some fresh plugs and shut off the car where you want to see the timing. Look where the heat strap is on the plug and make changes from there. Like I said though, you'll only need a degree or 2 which can't be seen really on partial throttle runs. WOT yes, but not Partial throttle.

Also remember that if you see that one RPM or "area" like 2 or 3 degrees more..change the WHOLE map like that.

 

forged internals will expand less with the extra heat generated by added timing..would you not run a little more timing in a forged internal motor than a stock motor even if they were same bore/compression?

just my .02 for debate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dornon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forged internals will expand less with the extra heat generated by added timing..would you not run a little more timing in a forged internal motor than a stock motor even if they were same bore/compression?

just my .02 for debate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually forged internals expand MORE then cast iron pistons do. It's aluminum. Like I said timing and the material of internals is not related at all.

edit: Plus adding timing doesn't just give you power. I don't think you understand this

 

forged internals take more street then stock cast..

Partial throttle is probably under vacume.. Unless its like 3/4 or lots of load.. For all vacume you can keep stock timing figures, just tune the AFR for driveability.

 

i do understand what comes with timing

 

im here to learn though or i wouldnt have posted

 

Get it on a dyno.

Tune ignition to make best torque at least timing

Move to next load site

Car mapped, maybe then pull a degree then for reliabilty.