Spirited 10psi driving home yesterday, and stopped for gas.

I turned the car off, and set the turbo timer for 3 minutes.. plenty of time to fill her up.

When I got in I noticed the temperature gauge was above normal... a good bit above normal.

Pulled over to the watering hole and turned car off and popped hood, turned car back on and started filling the reseviour bottle with cold water... the fan on the passenger side of the engine came on and i watched the temperature drop.

It's never really done this, except the time I had a radiator leak due to a hose crack, which got replaced.

Any ideas?

Thermastat? Water wetter (duh!) ?? Pure anti-freeze?

Right now I'm using the premix 50/50 stuff from Autozone.

I don't see a leak in the driveway...

 

overheatinbg systems i have had:
check coolant level, radiator for cracks/leaks, check thermostat, make sure fan is turning on and working, or in the worst case...check headgasket(which sucks).

perhaps a fluidyne with water wetter is the question now?? try a automatic radiator from a civic or integ or whatever also.i wonder why more people dont run dex-cool coolant, ratherthen the green ****. at the lube place i worked at, the chevy's and other cars use a purple coolant( no im not confusing it with toyota shiz) that runs wayyy cooler then green.

 

You fill you car up with it running??

 

explain yourself? or suffer the wrath of a thousand sexually transmitted diseases!

 

Jake I hate to say this but it might be your headgasket. Head is lifting because ARP has good head studs but doesnt know how to provide the right torque specs . What did you tighten your head to when you built the motor?
EVIL


[Modified by Evil GS-R, 9:22 AM 3/6/2002]

 

I didn't.. it was put back together by the shop i goto once JG was done with it...

the head is lifting up when? during boost?

If thats the case I'll turn the **** down till i get back from colorado and get a new head gasket and studds....

I don't know if thats the case though.??

 

[QUOTE]Jake I hate to say this but it might be your headgasket. Head is lifting because ARP has good head studs but doesnt know how to provide the right torque specs . What did you tighten your head to when you built the motor?
EVIL

Please let me know about the torque specs, what are the correct specs, or the problem you speak of. never heard of this before

 

I have heard of head studs stretching under high boost or cylinder pressures, jsut didn't think that i would be subject to it with just 10 psi...

anything is possible..

side note.. i get no unusual smoke out the exhaust other than the little puff any FI car gets as they go into boost...

 

I am also trying to find out the correct torque specs for the arp studs..I get different specs from everyone I ask.

My headgasket also blew on only 10psi. Although I re-used the stock head bolts..so I wasn't too surprised that it happened.

 

so how hard is it to replace a head gasket? is it jsut something that takes time?

Should somethign happen, i want to do it myself.. and save some labor costs.

 

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this -- check if your radiator fan actually turns on while your turbo timer is running. My turbo timer only keeps IGN1 on; the fan is controlled by IGN2, so if the car is running with the timer for extended periods of time, the temp gauge will rise.

Check it out! Let your car run for 3 minutes or so with the turbo timer; if it starts to get warm, turn the key to ON and see if the fans immediately turn on.

-Xerxes

 

Okay I would torque a b18c1 head to about 75-80. Also depending on what kind of oil u use on the studs as well arp or regular. Did you use arp studs? If they reused your old studs, that can be your problem. Check the cooling conditions first, but the main way of knowing if your head is lifting, run your car hard at 10 psi and if you coolent overflow tank overflows, then your head is def. lifting.
Find out from the shop who did your motor what studs they used and what they torqued them down to.