mitsuman

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Ok so just got my car running, runs great, BUT the car overheats after about 20 min of driving. I noticed that it overheats pretty quick once i put it in 5th and the rpms stay steady. if i pull over and let the car idle it cools down. So i rigged this up to give the radiator some more air flow...



now this helped alot, but after a while of driving, the damm thing started to get hot again! oh and the car was noticable slower i think because the air was not flowing past the intercooler as well.

im thinking the air that is passing through the FMIC is warm and not cooling off the radiator efficiently. Can i get any advice or see anyones set up that has had this same problem. I searched and thats where i got that idea, but its not working for me. Thanks!

EK_vzla

i think if you have that plate there the engine dont take air when you running... maybe its worst.............. (its just my idea)

batboyvaj

to make sure its an airflow prob, take off your front bumper and drive around. if it doesn't get hot, then cut holes in your bumper.

b16chaos

i agree with the guys above,, is your fan turning on, you can run a mugen high temp thermostat, and you can try redline water wetter,, did you burp the system? try it again to get all the bubbles out....

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

fan is coming on yes, but problem is not when im stopped.

im sure its an air flow problem because when it was on the dyno they had a fan directly on it and it stayed cool for few hours. and again, when it is just sitting it will stay nice and cool, but once the fmic gets hot all that hot air travels to my radiator.

anybody have any other suggestions. i made a little ram air duct coming from the pass side fog light area. we will see if this helps. but i need to take that plate out, its hurting my power

and was i supposed to "burp" the motor when it was fresh? i just added coolant, went for a drive, then came back and have topped it off

hionvtecxda6

iTrader: (1)

let it sit w/ the cap off for a while and watch for bubbles. I kinda had the same problem when i first put my turbo kit and my fluidyne on. I drove on the freeway for like 30minutes and it started overheating. After i let it cool down i just let the car sit idling for a while w/ the radiator cap off. A grip of bubbles eventually came out and all was well after. good luck

-Jimmy

batboyvaj

if you have already properly bled the system, then either start cutting your bumper to allow more air in (ducting, extra holes, etc), or move your intercooler so it is right next to your rad.

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hionvtecxda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let it sit w/ the cap off for a while and watch for bubbles. I kinda had the same problem when i first put my turbo kit and my fluidyne on. I drove on the freeway for like 30minutes and it started overheating. After i let it cool down i just let the car sit idling for a while w/ the radiator cap off. A grip of bubbles eventually came out and all was well after. good luck

-Jimmy</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool i will do this when i get home. was i supposed to first start the car with the radiator off?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by batboyvaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have already properly bled the system, then either start cutting your bumper to allow more air in (ducting, extra holes, etc), or move your intercooler so it is right next to your rad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya last night i made a little ram air coming from the pass side fog light. should help.

HamiltonRex

I had the same problem with my crx.

What radiator are you running?

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem with my crx.

What radiator are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what did you do?

i have a koyo with slim fan.

maddog20

what brand of fan are you using?


I switched to a FAL and it was a big difference due to the shroud

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

please please people. my problem is NOT at idle. its not the fan. and i said in my last post its a SLIM fan.

B20luda

Bleed cooling system until both upper and lower hoses are at equal temp/engine FULLY warmed up

make sure both hoses get to equal temp BOTH should be HOT

Get intercooler as close as possible to the radiator

might also be a good idea to take a Temp gun and goes across the radiator with it there shouldnt be a huge temp difference across the radiator after engine is warmed, if there is you could have a clog or calapsed passage..

and remember kids...hot engines= hot coolant!!!

My h22 NEVER gets above 190 and i have a 3.5in thick intercooler blocking that bastard sized half rad i have....

batboyvaj

try what i said about removing the bumper. if it doesn't heat up like you said, then you know you bled correctly and you have a minor issue with airflow.

dbiker207

is the fan a push or pull. if its a push setup did you flip the fan blade on the motor or did you just switch the wires. on my car i originaly just switched the wires and my car did the same thing your talking about (fine at idle, bad cruising). i took the blade off and fliped it and now all is good.

btw this is for fans with curved blades it doesnt apply to straight blades

HamiltonRex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what did you do?

i have a koyo with slim fan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i never solved it, i didnt drive in extremely hot weather. I did however reduce the problem, i added some ducting like you did, the ducting diverts airflow to the raditor, it helps but also it blocks it from going though your intercooler, drill a bunch of holes in the ducting behind your intercooler, so air can still pass though a portion of the ducting.

I also drilled 3 holes in my bumper (evenly spaced nice holes with a holesaw), (mainly just did this one day when i got home and was pissed that the ducting didnt solve it and i was frusturated and didnt car anymore if i had holes) and i used a torch and cut a hole though my bumper beam, this made the most difference and i no longer had problems on the highway, i just had problems in the city if the car sat at idle for a long period of time.

Also, check to make sure your system holds pressure, you may have a VERY small leak on one of the heater hoses or coolant hoses behind the engine and its not allowing your system to pressurize, do you ever smell coolant very slightly when it starts to run 'hot' i used to, but it was so small i could never identify exactly where the leak was comming from.

Also you could try an oil cooler setup to help pull some heat out of the engine, just wire the pump to a thermostat so your oil dosen't get too cool, this was my next option other then doing what i did and building something else.

Goodluck. BTW, what kind of oil temps and water temps are you seeing? And where are you sensors installed.

Snail Tuning

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mitsuman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please please people. my problem is NOT at idle. its not the fan. and i said in my last post its a SLIM fan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

actually it sounds like it may be your fan. make sure your fan is pulling and not pushing. easily check by placing a peice of paper in front of your radiator and see if it pushes or pulls. because if its pushing it will only cause heating issues at cruzing, idle will be normal.

also your peice that you added is not going to slow down your car there is no way you could feel a differance maybe if your car made 20hp you could. that peice would actually make your car faster by not traping air under your hood its now forcing it through your radiator or round your bumper. making real fan shroud around the outside of your fan will help when the fan is on. which it should be on all the time if your overheating. also you can wrap your turbo manifold, and your dump tube. that will decrease underhood temps drematicly. also make sure your dump tube is blowing away from your engine bay.

good luck.

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

thanks all for the information. yes the fan is pulling air. and yes i actually did notice a decrease in power when i had that panel there. it makes sense, there is trapped hot air with no where to go so as it is being forced over to the radiator is builds up and causes the inter cooler to not function as efficient. and i did not have that in mind as i was driving so i know its not placebo, i was trying to figure out why the car felt slower and later on during the day i realized it

ok so i think i have a blown headgasket.....

i pulled the cap off the radiator, let the car idle, a couple of bubles actually did come out, then i decided to give it some gas, and i see a bunch of little bubbles come out, i figured maybe the air that was trapped is coming out, but they just kept coming everytime i revved the motor and held it steady they would come out steadily.

but wtf i just put this motor together few weeks ago and dynod it over the weekend.

opinions? could this just be the air that was trapped. the bubbles werent coming out when the car was cold. but then again, the therm wasnt open.

dbiker207

do a leak down test, or at least put compressed air into the cylinders and see if the radiator is bubbling.

wade

iTrader: (1)

yea, i did that blackoff plate thing once... it def. made it WORSE. Trapped in all kinds of hot air and made my engine feel like a expletiveing commercial sized OVEN!

jack the front of the car up about a foot, take the rad cap off, and let it run for 25mins and top off the radiator as neccessary as it burps out bubbles causing the coolant level to drop each 'burp'.

do this AFTER you do a leakdown test and if it passes

p0gi

You can get a universal block tester that checks for exhaust gas in your cooling system and will help determine if you have a bad headgasket.
The other thing to do is get a coolant system pressure tester so you can check for small leaks. They have them for free rental at autozone.

Snail Tuning

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, i did that blackoff plate thing once... it def. made it WORSE. Trapped in all kinds of hot air and made my engine feel like a expletiveing commercial sized OVEN!QUOTE]

Honda Actually puts a plastic version of this plate in the car if the car is not equiped with a/c. it forces the air through the radiator causing it to cool the coolant more efficently. most race cars do this for the same reason. this will make your engine run cooler. also if you make a frame or box to force the air into your intercooler it will cool even better. your decrease in performance could have been caused by a bad headgasket if indeed it is bad.

but anyways. you need to get a compresson testor or leakdown tester so you can see if your headgasket is leaking.

[QUOTE=p0gi]You can get a universal block tester that checks for exhaust gas in your cooling system and will help determine if you have a bad headgasket.
The other thing to do is get a coolant system pressure tester so you can check for small leaks. They have them for free rental at autozone. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the co2 test is a good way to tell but can be hard to find, and can be contaminated very easily. loss of pressure during coolant presure testing does not always indicate a bad headgasket a leakdown test would be more acurate. unless you pull your spark plugs and have a way to look inside to check for coolant. or you can turn your engine over with the plugs out after pressureizing the coolant system and see if any coolant gets pushed out of the spark plug holes.

your heater core could have air in it aswell. raise the FR of the car to help bleed the heater core.

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

there is no heater core. i took that out and i just hooked those 2 hoses together. checked to see if there were any carbons coming out of the radiator with a universal block tester and the test came back negative. so monday i will do a leak down test to see whats up. i still need to bleed the system

blinx9900

fan comes into play when the car is moving as well, trust me on this one, i found out the hardway and almost lost a motor.

anyways what are your water temps at?

mitsuman

iTrader: (1)

at idle im a 199 i also noticed that the thermostat opened at 199.2

this is too high.