<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eggie75 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you got the hg put in, did you have the head shaved? how many miles on the motor b4 u put in the hg? also, what kind of thermo did you use? use oem or try a mugen. change the fan switch too... its not expensive or hard to do, but might fix the prob. if not might wanna try wiring the fan to stay on all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

head was not warped so milling was not necessary. its a jdm motor so true mileage is unknown im assuming 50-60k. i used an oem thermo and do not want a mugen one because it doesnt do anything different than the oem. fans are working so the switch doesnt need to be replaced and the fans really shouldnt be a factor for highway driving, thanks for trying to help though.

 

dude its your IC. my car did this with a HUGE thick garret IC. took bumper off, ran 32 deg cooler. in the end, i added low temp thermo, FAL fan, PWR rad, removed bumper support and its ok. only did it one time, i hate my IC, it works TOO well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you guys know which is the water temp sensor that controls the cluster in this pic? </TD></TR></TABLE>
#11

 

i have this problem, if your cruising in lets say 5th gear doing 70 and step on it or enconter a hill, the load (heat produced by teh motor) is alot more than you think (lets say 10 second of beating the **** out of it in 2nd gear). That's why alot of motors die on 5th gear pulls. Maybe your "stock" radiator is just out of efficacy?
I also run a dual core del slow radiator.

 

problem is you had inline install the headgasket... They have overtorqued sooo
many headstuds, I know at least 2 people personally who have experienced this,
check your ARP headstuds, they stripped out 3 of mine and cracked my friends
GSR block by overtightening the headbolts, they are lazy and will hit any bolt with
an impact to save time, the only thing they are good for is parts and tuning. check
and make sure everything is lined up at TDC on cylinder one, guarenteed they didnt take the slack out of the timing belt when they reassembled the engine.
check your fan relay make sure your fan is on, make sure its pulling air, and plugged in. I have a huge intercooler and was running a delsol dual core no overheating problems here.

 

we had the same exact problem with a customers B20vtec turbo it only overheats on the highway even without boosting past 3 psi but in town no matter how we hammer and beat down on it temp is normal. tried slitting open the bumper and it still overheats. this is with a brand new oem HG. new radiator no leaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastrunner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">problem is you had inline install the headgasket... They have overtorqued sooo
many headstuds, I know at least 2 people personally who have experienced this,
check your ARP headstuds, they stripped out 3 of mine and cracked my friends
GSR block by overtightening the headbolts, they are lazy and will hit any bolt with
an impact to save time, the only thing they are good for is parts and tuning. check
and make sure everything is lined up at TDC on cylinder one, guarenteed they didnt take the slack out of the timing belt when they reassembled the engine.
check your fan relay make sure your fan is on, make sure its pulling air, and plugged in. I have a huge intercooler and was running a delsol dual core no overheating problems here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive never had a problem with them or their service. this is the first internal motor work they have done for me and i highly doubt they impacted on headstuds. maybe ill do some investigating and see what i found out. unless they actually cracked the block...would overtightening the headstuds cause my car to overheat?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboeg77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we had the same exact problem with a customers B20vtec turbo it only overheats on the highway even without boosting past 3 psi but in town no matter how we hammer and beat down on it temp is normal. tried slitting open the bumper and it still overheats. this is with a brand new oem HG. new radiator no leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

at least im not the only one

bump for more ideas

 

anyone else?

as soon as i get a chance, probably this weekend i think im going to put a different t-stat in and make sure the fan wiring is correct (i know it is) i might just wire it to stay on all the time and see of that helps cool me down on the highway. it really shouldnt matter but at this point its worth a shot. i guess ill go ahead and bleed it some more just for fun.

 

also what do you guys think about this? i drove my car home from school today, only about 10 minutes. i was checkin some stuff out when i parked, the car was fully warmed up (boosted a little coming home), both hoses were hot, fan kicked oln after a few minutes, expansion tank was dead on the full mark just like when i filled it up. but i touched the rad cap and its not even hot. the radiator itself was hot to the touch but the cap wasnt. is this even a symptom of a bad rad cap? do you think a bad rad cap could be the explanation for all my problems?

maybe the water pump is pumping but the rad cap isnt holding the pressure in? i think im just gonna go to honda and get a new cap. cheap insurance.

 

I live in Florida. It is rather hot here always, like usually 90-95degrees.

Recently took a 2 hour spirited drive no overheating what so ever.
8" JRC intercooler, Fluidyne half rad (I still have AC too) in EG Civic with no holes cut in bumper.

I do also have an oil cooler that has direct air flowing over it at all times.

OEM t-stat, fan wired to run always.

Your all missing something.....If I don't overheat and you do, then there's something else wrong with your setup.

I have read that if you remove ac the air will go around the radiator (path of least resistance) and not cool properly so If you removed AC, block off that area with some sheet metal.

 

we are definitely missing sometihng. i removed ac but it has been gone for over a year no with no previous problems.

unfortunately i just took the rad cap off and found the creamy white substance that was present before the hg install. so maybe i need to flush the entire cooling system and make sure none of that gunk is clogging anything else in the block or the waterpump. i dunno i think im just gonna take it back to inlinepro and let them deal with it

 

another new development. sorry to ramble but i figured id throw put out all the possibilities.

so the day that my t-stat went bad i borrowed some coolant from a neighbor because i lost a lot when it boiled over in the expansion tank. he let me keep it just in case. it was PEAK brand premixed 50/50. apparently this brand has silicates in it which are not good for our cooling systems. do you think this is possibly the reason for a clogged or partially clogged cooling system. if so do you think if i flush the entire system really well that i could clean it all out and fix my highway overheating problems?

c'mon where are all the honda/acura technicians. could PEAK antifreeze (with silicates) have messed up my cooling system?

 

had exact same problem, new radiator fixed it right away... worst thing, you now have a nice radiator which is a great investment for a boosted car anyway

 

so you think the del sol dual core cant hang? it did great for the first 3 months of boost i dont see why it would all of the sudden stop working so well. unless it clogged or blocked in some way.

ill try to get some pics tomorrow of the crap i found in my expansion tank and under the rad cap

 

use to have overheating problems,flushed coolant then put waterwetter plus water,very little coolant.Then wired fan to a constant,and havent overheated in a long time!its worth a try,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22slohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use to have overheating problems,flushed coolant then put waterwetter plus water,very little coolant.Then wired fan to a constant,and havent overheated in a long time!its worth a try, </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i think this will do the trick. i think some of the gunk that got into the system from when the hg was blown might still be in there.

time for a complete flush and refill

 

in my car i found if run a minimal anti freeze (need some to lubricate the coolant system and elevate the boiling point of water) and distilled water, i get the best performance. Distilled water has less contaniments than tap water, which helps with heat transfer. Pure water has the greater heat capacity compared to alcohol. ethanol C(p,m) = 65.44 j/k*mol while water C(p,m) = 69.91 j/k*mol.

footnotes C(p,m) = heat capacity at constant presure per mole (its a large dozen)
j= joules (unit of energy
k= celcius + 273.15

 

ok guys i got some pics of that creamy substance i found under the rad cap. check out these pics. do you think that clumpy creamy white stuff is oil contamination or something else? maybe from coolant mixing with combustion gases? or did someone just jizz in my radiator.

 

anyone?

 

I would remove the bottom hose and feed a water hose from the top and flush it. If less water come out from the bottom, then you know it clog.

 

had those jizz looking stuff before when i blew a head gasket with my old 4agze set up. could be oil and coolant.

 

The funny thing about the dual-core half-size radiator: square inch for square inch, it has less cooling ability than the single core. The reason is because you have a much higher pressure drop outside, meaning less airflow, and less water turbulance inside (which w/o big explaination is better).

The timing suggestion is also an idea to look into. More ignition timing means it fires earlier, resulting in higher cyl pressures for more time. That results in heat. Worst case you'd see a little bit less fuel milage w/less timing due to more throttle. More air in there making power is better than timing doing it, since the greater volume (less vacuum here) helps make power after TDC.

 

im gonna flush the whole system and see what happens and then take it from there. im really starting to think there might be some kind of clog due to mixing fluids before the new hg was installed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The funny thing about the dual-core half-size radiator: square inch for square inch, it has less cooling ability than the single core. The reason is because you have a much higher pressure drop outside, meaning less airflow, and less water turbulance inside (which w/o big explaination is better).</TD></TR></TABLE>

could you explain this more. i dont think i completely understand what you are saying.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The timing suggestion is also an idea to look into. More ignition timing means it fires earlier, resulting in higher cyl pressures for more time. That results in heat. Worst case you'd see a little bit less fuel milage w/less timing due to more throttle. More air in there making power is better than timing doing it, since the greater volume (less vacuum here) helps make power after TDC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if anything im running less timing after the hg install. the shop that did the work retarded the dizzy to be safe until i can get the new compression tuned (they dont tune uber)

 

ok guys i completely flushed the system and then took it to inlinepro to have them test the coolant for combustion gases. it was only about a 30 min drive and i didnt have any issues. I just talked to stan and he said the test was negative, meaning the headgasket is in good shape.

hopefully this means everything is good to go and back to normal. i guess the system was just dirty or clogged from when the hg went bad causing the problem. time for a nice long "spirited" drive to be sure. im gonna pick up the car tomorrow and drive like an hour back to school so that should be the final test. thanks for all the help.