<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would that affect anything? There's not even a ground cable on the starter from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why the hell would it overheat if the starter wasn't grounded</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha. just inputting some odd way that fixed my constant heating and starting issues. believe it or not. no need to bash.

 

I'm not bashing, just saying that there's no logic behind that. Do you actually believe that that solved overheating issues?

 

Tony, maybe he means his T-stat housing, he's just confused????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not bashing, just saying that there's no logic behind that. Do you actually believe that that solved overheating issues?</TD></TR></TABLE>

perhaps it was just a eletrical problem, the engine was running fine for about 1 week, i even drove it from the bay area down to san diego. but on the way back it started to over heat and starter wouldnt kick over.

a couple days of driving to work on the freeway the needle was above mid way, and the temp would go up more as i left off the gas. and starter wouldnt engauge instead it just clicked.

so after a few days of push starting and over heating i decided to swaped out another starter and same problem, it just clicked.

then tried to connect a ground to it and the SOB worked, then swaped back the old starter to try it again and it would just click, then put a ground on that too and that thing started like a champ. and now my needle reads normal, below midway.

and by the way the engine felt normal warm, during the over heating times, but i guess the needle was all wacked out for some electrical reason. and the fan kept turning on all the time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tony, maybe he means his T-stat housing, he's just confused????</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha? no, i had a ground on the T-stat and the Valve cover nut also.


Modified by Lam.N at 12:06 PM 8/28/2006

 

Did you have the ground from the chassis to the transmission housing, the one that honda put there?

 

yeah i had that too. in fact i grounded my starter to that transmission-clutch-cable-bracket. and of course that bracket had a ground to the chassis right under neath the battery.

anyway if you want to try it or not its up to you. just giving my input based on my experience.

 

I think your issue was a sensor not reading right because of bad grounds, not the car actually overheating. But who knows, if it fixed it, it fixed it.

 

Try a new after market thermostat and thermoswitch. it definitely helped my fluidyne, sleeved b18... my temp stays at a 1/4 now

 

What are your oil temps? I have a slight overheating issue while boosting for somewhat long periods or after doing 90 (about 5k rpm) for a while on the interstate. I notice my oil temps are getting to 120-125C. After that point the water temps go up quickly and unless i cruise around at low rpm to lower oil temps it will want to overheat when i slow down. Otherwise I could let it idle at 100F weather and it will never get hot if oil temps are 100-115C.

I'm about to get a oil cooler. I think that is my whole coolant overheating issue, just a thought for ya.

 

took 0x64's advise, put new thermostat in opens at 170 degrees, put some Pro-Blend 40Below Stop Overheating formula in with water, and no overheating no more bleed it with the car jacked up in front for a good 20 minutes or more , then lowered it and let it sit about 5 minutes. got out on the hwy and boosted it plenty and no overheating, this is with the front bumper off so i'm going to see what it does when i put it back on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took 0x64's advise, put new thermostat in opens at 170 degrees, put some Pro-Blend 40Below Stop Overheating formula in with water, and no overheating no more bleed it with the car jacked up in front for a good 20 minutes or more , then lowered it and let it sit about 5 minutes. got out on the hwy and boosted it plenty and no overheating, this is with the front bumper off so i'm going to see what it does when i put it back on</TD></TR></TABLE>

It wont overheat with the front bumper on Xsi-T and I have been using Pro-Blend for a while. It's great stuff. Now I want to see some video of this LS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took 0x64's advise, put new thermostat in opens at 170 degrees, put some Pro-Blend 40Below Stop Overheating formula in with water, and no overheating no more bleed it with the car jacked up in front for a good 20 minutes or more , then lowered it and let it sit about 5 minutes. got out on the hwy and boosted it plenty and no overheating, this is with the front bumper off so i'm going to see what it does when i put it back on</TD></TR></TABLE> Hey whats up Mann, Question for ya my buddy is having some overheating problems too, what kind of thermostat did you get?

 

i'm having the same problem right now. it can idle forever but as soon as I go on the highway or boost the car up the temp gauge will stay a little above middle and steam poors out the over flow.
i also have a dump pipe running next to my rad and under the car
I did the hydro carbon test ,leak down and compression just to make sure it wasn't a head gasket.
i'm going to try what yoe guys tried I hope it works

 

I had the same problem when i was turboed some years ago. I just couldn't deal with it and said eff it, sold the turbo etc. Motor still ran a little warm. With the money i received from selling my kit, i ripped that motor out and rebuilt the motor. New water and oil pump + a thermostat were the only other items besides headgasket, oil pan gasket, rods, and pistons that i added.

I found my old thermostat to be in good condition, well i boiled some water and got some cold water in 2 seperate pans. Put the thermo in the cold, nothing happend. put it in the 250F water and it opened up less than half way.

Even tho the thermo was newer and looked in good shape, the sonofabitch just wouldn't open up all the way, or even more than half

 

I think its your tstats going out it just won't open. Since your problem have already solve, congratz. I'm having the same problem and just order a tstats waitting to put in too. Hopefully it will go away, Texas heat is a pain.

 

well temps rose a little when i put bumper on, but it took a while of riding on the hwy, and a lil of boostn' . temps didn't rise like before though. maybe cause it isn't as hot right now. we have had over 30 consecutive 100degree+ weather days!!!!!!!!guess i gotta role with the front bumper off til i find a solution

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well temps rose a little when i put bumper on, but it took a while of riding on the hwy, and a lil of boostn' . temps didn't rise like before though. maybe cause it isn't as hot right now. we have had over 30 consecutive 100degree+ weather days!!!!!!!!guess i gotta role with the front bumper off til i find a solution </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try to get some datalogs or a coolant gauge hooked up so we can see the actual temperatures. The temperature should have only gone up AROUND 10F with the bumper on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Try to get some datalogs or a coolant gauge hooked up so we can see the actual temperatures. The temperature should have only gone up AROUND 10F with the bumper on</TD></TR></TABLE>
what temps at TOO high with GE sleeves?

 

The gauge doesn't really move past halfway until about 220 deg. F. Anywhere over that is too hot in my opinion...

 

all ox64 says is true i found the cure.... i got my car up to 120mpn and had no more temp creep and this is with full bumper and stock civic si rad..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gauge doesn't really move past halfway until about 220 deg. F. Anywhere over that is too hot in my opinion...</TD></TR></TABLE>