2000 civic si, it only overheats while im idling or when the turbo timer is counting down, if its idling it will go allmost all the way up then the fan will kick in and it will go down a little but still over heating,, if i give it gas then it goes down, or if i turn the heat on. i dont know what the problem is, i took it to a shop and the jumped the switch so the fan is running constanly, fixed the problem for driving but when the tt is counting down it will still over heat... i dont know what the problem is, i thought ti was the thermostat but the guys at the shop said if thats what it was it would go down when the fan kicked on it would just stay overheating all the time... someone help me please... i dont think i can properly bleed the coolnat cause the turbo is in the way of the bleeder valve on the b16 engine. any help would be apprecitaed.. by the way no leaks or smoke from the exhaust or coolnat, and it is full.
eddie

 

get the thermo wrap and wrap the down pipe and manifold it will bring down temps

 

rig your fan to always be on, or on a switch...mine is..not a problem w/ overheating!

 

Blown headgasket will do the same thing maing.

 

i think you should check out the thermostat anyways...get a lower temp one. also try water wetter

 

Hate to say it... but I'd put money that a blown headgaskets to blame.

 

have a block test performed on your car. the block test is baisically a checmical that turns color if there are hydro-carbons in the coolant. if your car passes the block test then at least you know the head gasket is all good. i would also make sure the cooling system doesnt have any air in it. this can cause overheating while sitting still. i dont think it caould be the fan switch cause you said the fan is setup to run all the time and you only o-heat while sitting still. hmm, try the block test.

 

Don't want to sound like a total dumbass but make sure you have plenty of water in your cooling system in the first place.

If your head gasket is blown, you will USUALLY see your coolant reservoir / overflow tank being REALLY full or even bubbling out the top when the engine is HOT. I had horrible hg troubles for quite a long time, finally got it solved with a Cometic HP gasket and ARP studs. Probably should get my head reground flat, but I don't think I can handle that kind of downtime.

 

You're experiencing the same exact problem as me. When I hit the track last week, my car started to overheat out of nowhere. I added water to the coolant and it hadn't done it for a few days, but Tuesday after I ran it hard a few times, the temp gauge went up when sitting still again. Hasn't done it since then so I'm hoping it's just a thermo going bad or something cause it doesn't appear to be a headgasket.

 

I had a similar problem and it turned out there was air in the system. Bled the air out and now it's fine.

 

i cant get to the bleeder valve on my block to bleed the air and coolant out cause my turbo is in the way, i drained it and ran the car with the radiator cap off cause someone told me that would get the air out and it still does it,


where can i get that block tester thing from????

 

What do you mean about the turbo blocking the bleeder valve? I think you're looking at the DRAIN valve... there may not be a bleeder on your car but if there is, it should be on the thermostat.

 

the drain valve is on the bottom of the radiator, but the bleeder valve on the b16 is right under where the headers are supposed to be, i have a helms manual and it says that to properly bleed the coolant from the engine and the radiator you have to open this valve and replace the washer, but i cant get to it because the manifold and turbo are in the way, would air in the system cause it to overheat????

 

there's air in the system. i don't know how the turbo can be in the way of the bleeder valve. I'm not callin you a liar or anything just hard to imagine since the turbo sits in the front of the car. if you have to take a charge pipe off big deal. I have dealt with this before and 99% of the time it is an inproperly bleed coolant system. isn't there a bleeder by the thermostat housiong?? thats where I have always seen them.


[Modified by 92JDMSiR, 4:32 AM 8/2/2002]

 

i know what your saying man, but according to the helms manual on the b16 engine the valve(nut) is on the front of the engine, i now in the ex engine its on the back, and its the actual turbo thats in the way not one of the pipes.

 

how exactly does one get air into the cooling system? Is this somehow related to the turbocharger, ie. higher temps?

 

This may not be the best way to do it, but Greddy told me to do it this way: Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold. Top it off, if necessary. Start the car. While the engine is running, squeeze the hoses until no more bubbles come out. Add more water.

It worked for me!

 

ion_four, air gets into the system when hoses are removed and replaced during installation. At least that's what happened to me.

 

on every honda known to man, the bleeder valve is located on the thermostat housing. just follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator and to the block. it should be right there. thats where it is on my b16. just take a look at the thermostat housing. it should be there.

 

then why does the helms manual show a nut beeing the bleeder valve, then i look at my engine and sure enough its there.... if you could show me a pic it would help sooooooo much..

 

I've installed 3 Greddy turbo kits and not one developed a over-heating problem. Here is my procedure for removing the air inside the cooling system, which should work for just about any vehicle.
1. Remove the radiator cap on a cold engine.
2. Start the engine and put the heater 'on' and turn the fan on high.
3. Top off the radiator while the engine is running. Directly in the radiator, not the overfill tank.
4. Wait a few minutes until the thermostat opens. When the thermostat opens <providing it works properly> it will make the level of water in the radiator go down. At this time, add more water or antifreeze until full again.
5. Rev the engine a bit <not too high> to get the water to circulate inside the radiator.
6. After about 5-10 minutes <engine still runnning>, when you know it will not take any more water or antifreeze......put the radiator cap back on.
7. Fill the overflow tank to the max limit.
Your done!
It seems like alot but trust me it's worth it.

 

i dunno if it's the same but here's a few pix i just took from my accord. the left part is where the lower radiator hose connects... look for your lower radiator hose and follow it towards the engine. the bleeder bolt is the one on the second and last picture where there's a bolt with a hole in it. hope this helps

 

listen to pressurized SI hes exaclty right on the procedure

 

The big huge nut/bolt what ever you call it on the front of the block behind the header is a coolant drain bolt to drain the coolant completely out of the block. There is also a radiator drain bolt on the bottom of the radiator. The coolant bleeder is on the upper radiator thermal stat housing. YOU MUST READ THE BOOK WRONG!!!!!!! BUT, on some civic and integra depending on years, there is no bleeder bolt and I believe it's 99-01 model. My friend's car does the same, turn out a bad thermal stat and alittle leak from the gasket. My engine temp. is very hot, you can even lay a hand on the hood and it's carbon fiber. Never had any overheating problem so forget the thermal wrap.