Is this your first turbo install?

Are you connecting the pressure line to the right port? All this talk of vacuum...why? A wastegate needs to see pressure, not vac.

Most wastegates have 2 holes, a side one, and a top one. You want a line off the charge pipe before the throttle plate going to the boost controller, then to the side port on the wastegate. NOT off intake manifold.

If you run the line to the top port, you are pressurizing the wastegate to stay closed, overboosting. Pressurize the bottom port to open the gate...

The top port should remain open to atmosphere.

 

Huh?



And YES, instead of being at the compressor cover you CAN go off of the intake manifold. If using a boost controller, the top port of the gate IS to be used.

 

If using an electronic boost control solinoid, you do this.

If using an MBC like OP, you vent the top port, and allow preasure to build in the bottom section of wastegate to open it.

Using an electonic solinoid will vent the top port once a pressure is reached. Thus opening the wastegate because of pressure imbalance. The electronic solinoid has 3 ports, one vents to atmosphere. A nice feature, holding the valve closed juuust until max pressure is reached. Improving spool speed.

With an MBC, a ball and spring reduce the amount of pressure allowed to enter the lower section of the wastegate. The top CANNOT be pressurized, or it just won't open...

Got me?

 

That's the most eloquent explanation you've actually made since I've seen you type here..

Kudos.. I've always understood, but now you're finally getting it.

 

So since the exhaust manifold changed significantly, you are going to get a retune correct?

 

Finally? Ah, I've got much more knowledge, I've lurked since '03. Frequented Hondaswap more.

Got busy buying house, starting business, back to some free time hobby fun again. Love learning, but I'll only post what I know as fact.

But ty for the kind words

 

No disrespect was intended...by habit you've always kept your explanations, rather curt and simplistic. This is a nice change of pace.keep it coming

 

Yes I will be getting a retune. I'm planning on having locash do the tune. Found out that the issue was boost controller was broken. Plan is to go with hondata boost control, unless you guys think there is a better option. If I do their boost control any recommendations on which solenoid I should go with?

 

I have had the controller running off the top port for a while now since it would only make 18psi from the side port. It always worked fine until controller failed. We have found the issue and switched setups so we shouldn't have any issues now.

 

Kinda off topic but have you been in contact with locash yet? I've emailed them with no response..

 

U said you disconnected the bc and ran off waste gate and was still way over boosting so how was it the bc?

 

Well we messed up when we did that and still had it plugged into the top port instead of side port when we tried that. Went to the side port and it held 9psi. We switched manifolds and wastegate hooked up to side port and it holds 4psi, this gate has a small spring in it. I'm sure I will need to get a little stiffer spring if I want to run 30psi

 

I haven't spoke with him yet. My buddy has car done there and talked to him fairly recently. I do need to get into contact with him to see what he recommends for me to do

 

My cars all run 8lb springs and are all capable of holding 30psi with my voodoo Mbc on each

 

Really?? My experience with MBCs are, you can only roughly double spring pressure.

Thats a lot man.

 

About 2.5 to 2.7 times the spring used. Although its not recommended, as boost stability suffers over time from the stress the spring itself is put under.

 

Yea on all 3 cars I run the 8lb with the colored voodoo ceramic ball Mbc and they're holding strong at 20lbs, 23lbs and 25.5lbs. This new build I'm going new with everything and using an electronic bc

 

The ones I ordered from xenocron, and ebay ones I've tried but abandond only double. Cool to know

 

Any recommendations on a solenoid to use with hondata boost control

 

Not that MAC solenoid....

GM or Chrysler same voltage and hook up. just change default to closed not open in Smanager

 

I'm just about finished up with the small issues that have come up over the past few months and will be getting on the dyno soon. My question is I'm still running the stock gsr throttle body, will it be able to make 600whp or does it need to be upgraded?

 

You can make 600whp as a peak power level, but to have that throttle nice and "snappy" with just a tap of the accelerator, I'd go up a bit to 66mm-70mm. No larger.

 

I'm now trying to wire in a high/low boost switch. It says to wire into pin b5 on p72 ecu. Does anyone know if this pin is switched by ground?