PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

So I used to own a CRX HF and built a LS/VTEC with the intentions of staying all motor. Plans changed and now I have a DC2 and Turbo.

Engine specs

97 ITR head (Stock)
B18B crank
B18B rods (shot peened and ARP rod bolts installed)
JDM ITR pistons (81mm)
Stock head gasket
ARP head studs
Ram horn manifold
Precision SC44 turbo (rated for 585hp)
RC 550cc injectors
2.5" downpipe to I think a 3" exhaust (exhaust came with the car)
2" hot side intercooler pipe to 2.5" cold side intercooler pipe
70mm Skunk2 alpha TB
JG Edelbrock Intake manifold
Hondata thermal manifold gasket
Hondata S300 in a P28 ECU

Compression is about what a JDM ITR would be at 11.1 : 1. I'm going to tune on 93 pump. What kind of power should I expect? I was thinking 10psi would be my max boost that I want to use. My power goal would be somewhere around 300hp. I'd be happy with 300.

I used this motor b/c it has 400 miles on it and I had it sitting in my shop since I sold the CRX. I figured I'd throw it in and see what it does. If it breaks then I'm going to a sleeved all forged setup with 10.5 compression.

Should I have maybe threw on a thicker head gasket to get a few points less compression? I see Type R motors being tuned up these days and most seemed to say that with better tuning these days high compression isn't as bad as it was.

Thanks for some suggestions and opinions in advance.

Geis

Sigh, even guys with built motors don't know psi is meaningless.
With that size turbo I would at least go for 400wheel+, which you'll make easily
Looks like you need to complete the turbo setup though, also get a 3in dp
Oh and bigger injectors, seriously man make some good power with this, you can turn down the boost whenever u want

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The SC44s were just Garrett T3/T04E "60 Trim" with a 58mm inducer/75mm exducer capable of about 350whp on 93 octane and 450whp on race fuel (or something with the knock resistance of race fuel). Efficiency range was about 7psi to 24psi, and were pretty cool for what they can do. They use a 65mm exhaust wheel shared with the Precision XX31 series turbo sold now.

So at least you have a Garrett. :-)


The injectors you're using can handle about 350whp (on stock fuel pressure), or up to about 400whp if you increase fuel pressure a bit. After that, they are maxed.

This would be a fun little beastie. But don't lower compression. You are reading old information from a generation ago.

Dark_Teg

WTF kind of advice is that? He has stock pistons and rods. Anything over 300whp is pushing it on pump gas.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I understand that PSI means exactly that PSI and is relative to the trim turbo being used. I just added that so nobody is under the impression I'm trying to use high boost levels on a mildly built block with higher compression motor. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the information!

What parts are you seeing that I'm missing? I do have a Walbro fuel pump and paxton Fuel pressure regulator. to go with the injectors. I had these injectors in my last turbo build so I just used them in this one considering my power goals didn't max them out.


TheShodan - Thanks for that information as well. The car will be some what of a daily driver. I don't have p/s but retaining a/c. My next set of mods for the setup is to keep things cool and get the lowest IAT I can. Any suggestions on that? It's pretty hot down here in the south.

Here is the setup. Car starts up and idles fine a/f wise on a ITR map. I'm using a GM 3 bar map sensor as well.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I wasn't going for anything close to 400 on this block. I want it to last a little while haha. The absolute most power is 325hp and I have a feeling I will be pleased with 300hp. Plus from what I understand I am sort of limited to 300ish with me using 2" piping from the turbo to intercooler.

Geis

Says who?
Like shodan said I forgot to mention with e85 for over 400, but even with pump I've seen a handful of setups pushing 350 to 400 all stock, on pump gas too I believe.
If he's got the rod bolts and a good tune he should be fine 😊

Geis

Yeah that piping will take you at least to 4-450 if you ditch the dp iirc.
You can push 350 at the least if you have a solid tune and have it last, you would be surprised how much these motors can take. Really if you just upgraded the pistons rods and maybe valvetrain you would be ready for 450 all day.
Do you have a wg, bov, dumptube, wideband, oil gauges, lines, a filter for the turbo etc etc?

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have a complete setup. It's not my first rodeo for this or tuning for that matter. But not to many people out here use 11's for compression with a turbo. The tuner has experience tuning high compression which is a good thing.

I have a tial MVS 38mm WG (dumptube is open to atmosphere but runs down by my exhaust), Greddy Type S BOV, LC-1 wideband (things look good at idle and it's synced to hondata so I can datalog etc.), oil pressure gauge and boost/vacuum gauge. I will also be utilizing BBG.

I haven't driven the car yet just started up and checking for leaks. Letting temps get up and making sure the fans clicking on and no overheating happens.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Oh and thanks for the information guys. Feeling better about getting the motor tuned. Over the next year I'll build my forged block maybe go e85 and go for like something big. Thanks again!

LightningTeg

10-15lbs will net in the mid high 300whp range. Wouldnt push it past that without upgrading the bottom end though.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Get a real intercooler.. And I mean a Garrett. Not just because it's a Garrett, but it's because it has one of THE BEST heat exchange efficiency rates for lower IATs, for the volume.. That also means that you need a very efficient radiator to scavenge the very exchange air that the really driving intercooler will give..

So, I'm not saying this to be a Garrett ***** (even though I am :-)), but there is a legitimate reason for getting it.

The only others I would trust would be ETS or of course Bell

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Makes sense. Now, I'm fairly sure that the intercooler I have is a quality part but I don't see a brand name on it. It looks of really good quality over others that I have owned. Here is a pic. Forgive the way the car looks. This was when I first got it and started taking it apart.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Horrible picture. Clean the I/C up from all the debris and get some better photos, or find some older ones, and we can see from there.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Here is a picture from tonight.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Looks similar to a treadstone. Meh. Only way to know is to use it, I guess.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Another from the front.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Like I said it's a decade old lol. The car was originally built in 2003/4 tuned on s100 and hasn't been altered until I got it. I might check some data logs and check the iat from when I got it to see how they look. I I swapped the s100 out for my s300 so I'll take a look. Thanks again. This is really helpful.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Actually, being a decade old narrows it down for me. Looking at the fin design, that's a SPEARCO intercooler. you're good to go, no problem.

LightningTeg

Take a picture of the internal fin matrix. That is better way to determine efficiency / design.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Engine produced 275whp @ 9psi on a dyno dynamics dyno meter which he said is a Heartbreakers dyno. He said it would be 305whp on a dyno jet. Going to pick the car up tomorrow morning.

Tuner said the motor felt very strong and responsive. I forgot to ask him the tq numbers. Had kids birthday parties all day so I wasn't there for the tune.

The weather was favorable. A little cool but still humid here in New Orleans.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like it will be fun. congratulations.

ls joker

kool. i remember way back in the sub 300 days. awesome summer it was. every since then ive upping it more and more

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

Usual side-effect after the boost bug bites

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Only to a point. After a while (for those that have already gone that far). For a street car, it's a law of diminishing returns. Once I go over the 500whp mark on the street (not counting "highway runs"), I found 300-400whp was the better in-between over time. The "boost bug" only hits for so long, then it just takes more work to get more out of it. More complicated systems cause for more complicated maintenance.

It's only the truly YOUNG that worry about the "boost bug". Those who've done it longer actually go back to the smaller setups because they were actually more fun and more reliable.