Alright, well about half a year ago i broke the tip off of a head bolt down in the head (d16y8). It's just the very tip of the bolt.... I brought it to a honda garage and they couldn't get it out. So they put in a new gasket and used this liquid gasket stuff around the valve cover.

I'm getting ready to turbo my car, but I want to figure out what I should do.

first off I'm planning on running around 170-180whp, will haveing 3 of the bolts and the liquid gasket seize hold ok for that range of power?

Should I spend a bunch of money and try to get a machine shop to drill it out risk damaging the block (aluminum)?

Spend even more money on a new head (don't want to do)

I was thinking if I get ARP head bolts and have atleast 3 of them holding it down along with the gasket seize I would be ok for that range of power and headlift wont be too extreme.

But if someone thats had experience with this knows that for a fact that this will cause problems I need to know. I don't have much money and would rather not spend money thats not needed.

 

ummm why does your car only have 4 head bolts?

 

you know what i mean... minus one head stud. The one at the back passenger side.

 

So you're talking about the studs that attach the head to the block? I would not recommend boosting that engine. I'm suprised it hasn't blown the headgasket with stock power levels...

 

well it's been half a year now and i'm a spirited, driver not a drop of oil. so I guess it's a miracle....

 

sounds like you're confusing the headbolts with the valve cover studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHC_16v &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you're confusing the headbolts with the valve cover studs</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think so too.

 

yes sorry, the valve cover stud.

It's been a long day can someone please just answer the question

 

the pressure in there shouldn't be crazy enough to leak...i mean if an oil catch tank can handle it the 3 bolts should be able to do the same...but am no expert so this is just my opinion..

 

lol you'll be fine boosting it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neoc03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol you'll be fine boosting it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO X2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_Viking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and headlift wont be too extreme.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


....ANY head lift is bad, your mixing oil and coolant, burning it, etc.

secondly, you'll be fine with the 3 valve cover studs, but you should be able to get it out and replace. After the nut is broke off there is nothing holding torque. I think you are a little confused on car parts, head vs valve cover, etc. You might want to post pictures, from the sounds of things you shouldn't be working on a car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


....ANY head lift is bad, your mixing oil and coolant, burning it, etc.

secondly, you'll be fine with the 3 valve cover studs, but you should be able to get it out and replace. After the nut is broke off there is nothing holding torque. I think you are a little confused on car parts, head vs valve cover, etc. You might want to post pictures, from the sounds of things you shouldn't be working on a car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree!

 

well obviously I was typing quickly and mixed up the words.

But thanks this is the reason why I post on here as often as I do for help...

sound like you need to say those things to newbies to feel good about yourself cause you have no life.

honda tech.. what a bunch of bigoted a holes man I'll stick to the good forums where people share knowledge rather than people that hunt posts down, just so that they can bash and say yeah man I'm the **** weeeee

And thanks to the people that actually posted to help, cause obviously i'm still learning stuff. I thought this forum was ment to share knowledge and help people, shooting people down with cocky comments just shows lake of integrity, and poor character.




Modified by VTEC_Viking at 1:56 PM 6/17/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_Viking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well obviously I was typing quickly and mixed up the words.

But thanks this is the reason why I post on here as often as I do for help...

sound like you need to say those things to newbies to feel good about yourself cause you have no life.

honda tech.. what a bunch of bigoted a holes man I'll stick to the good forums where people share knowledge rather than people that hunt posts down, just so that they can bash and say yeah man I'm the **** weeeee

And thanks to the people that actually posted to help, cause obviously i'm still learning stuff. I thought this forum was ment to share knowledge and help people, shooting people down with cocky comments just shows lake of integrity, and poor character.


Modified by VTEC_Viking at 1:56 PM 6/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dude it wasn't personal, re-read what you just said, or post what you wrote on another forum verbatim and see if someone else doesn't question your mechanical integrity... Your mis-interpretation of your motor was repetative, not just a single misuse, and way off course.

You were using parts names and parts of your motor that have nothing to do with your problem, or are even close to where your problem is, for instance damaging the threads in your block. I am not trying to bring you down, but you might want to learn a bit more about your motor before you go torquing bolts down on it. The reason you broke the valve cover stud on top of your cam rail was because you over torqued it, or torque it down when the motor was hot, if you had read more, you would know they need to be torqued down in a certain order, to a certain ft lbs (I believe 20-22 ft lbs) and then you hand tighten (7-8 ft lbs) the valve cover bolts. My point is, read more, touch your motor less until you learn more about it.

For whats its worth, while you can get away boosting your motor the way it is, I've always found that doing things the right way the first time, saves a lot of headaches. I would know, I've probably done as much or more all-motor setups (stock bore, bored out, stroked, different cams and intake swaps, ITB's, etc) than most people on here, and just went through my first very very in depth boost setup. Even after hours of reading and months of planning I still am working out the little issues I'm having. But if I hadn't of read for hours like I did, researched parts, how things work, I would of probably blown my motor by now.

 

I haven't done any internal work on an engine before and the only thing I plan to do is put ARP headstuds in. I thought that you called valve cover bolts headstuds cause they go into the head sorry.

I am not planning on just bolting this setup to my car and go, that is a judgment call you made just by reading this post. I plan on haveing a boost gauge, wideband, and oil pressure gauge. As well as using a standalone either crome or hondata s100 haven't decided yet, then haveing it profesionally tuned.

I never said that I am building my engine bottom up.

Also i've been on multiple forums reading faqs for two years now, I started small intake header and exhaust and read intently about those, and even made faqs on how to install them. I haven't had any problems yet mechanically. I've bought corky bells maximum boost and studied the forced induction faq, as well as goatsbees.com.

This setup is not on my car and ready to blow, I am still researching and piecing together essential parts. Thats why i'm asking questions like these now.





Modified by VTEC_Viking at 3:14 PM 6/18/2008

 

Ive got all the D-series turbo parts you could want. I got a mini me if you want it is yours . D15B7 block with D16Y8 head. I am building an LS/V -T. I got a T04 AiReasearch turbo as well. My advice is just read and read some more about Turbos. When you are trying to go to the next level it can be frustrating when you dont understand something and there is limited help.

Just buy a new head it is probably cheaper than having machining done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neoc03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol you'll be fine boosting it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good to ******* go man. BOOST THAT ****