drjoe

Hello, what is everyones average oil and water temp. I have a full race top mount/gt35r/4inch down pipe(bseries) with a halfsize fluidyne radiator. After 10 minutes, h2o hits 210 and oil temp (sensor on moroso oil pan) hits 220 then stabilizes. Is this normal? and what temps should I be concerned. I'm thinking about coating my manifold and downpipe to see if it helps.


TIA

joe from houston

Speed Infliction

sounds about right from what i have read in the past. also coating the mani and dp will drop under the hood temps. there are many ways to cool down temps.

drjoe

when I was all motor...180 was the norm (thats why I was worried)....who's doing the tune for you? I had StOOpid tune mine on s300.

Speed Infliction

i was thinking about having him tune it or T1. how much did he charge? curious why you went with the s300.

drjoe

1. Boost by gear
2. If I had any problems, I could email him the datalog of my runs and he could adjust it.
3. I have a pump gas tune and race gas tune I can switch.
4. More options i haven't looked at..

Speed Infliction

who built your motor?

drjoe

J@K machine...they did my buddy Duys 8 sec 240/ supra motor and Carboy's Hondas.

Speed Infliction

did they put it in the car too, or did carboy do that part?



Modified by Speed Infliction at 1:19 PM 12/12/2006

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

With a Fluidyne half-core radiator and a 12" fan on all the time, it'll usually stay below 195 deg F. Even after spending 3 hours on the dyno, it never fluctuated beyond 193 deg F. I don't about her oil temp because we never hooked up a gauge.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

I'm callin BS on INVTEC unless you sat on the dyno without a front bumper with fans ALL OVER your **** and it was cold outside.

Oil temp sensor is in my oil pan. I live in hot *** florida. Everything in my setup that should be is heat wrapped. I have thermal coating too, that **** doesn't help unless it is swaintech.

I daily drive a fully built Turbo GSR 17psi max, usually. I have a fluidyne half core, 12" inch fan, AND an external oil cooler (12X5X2) and my oil temps get to around 190-220 on a 80F or more day. Days that its really hot, like 95+ I have seen oil temps around 230F daily driving.

One of the major factors is my intercooler blocks my entire grill area, and this is what is causing the temps to get so high.

vtec.dc2

i havent had the opportunity to monitor temps during warmer weather.. but under 80F degrees i get 210-212 street driving and up to 220-222 hwy driving while rpms in midrange. water temps are the opposite.. no higher than 190 on hwy but sometimes get hotter during street stop/go driving. i'm pretty sure i'll see much higher temps during summer.

right now i'm using 5w40 and will be using 15w50 or 20w50 during summer. i have ebay full size radiator w/ 2 12" fans. for oil cooling i just have stock oil cooler.

i might eventually install hood vents - i'm sure that will help cool everything down.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I've got S300 datalogs to prove it. Ambient temps were probably around 65 deg F to 70 deg F in the bay.

jonvo

my car ran at 180 on the freeway when it was na, then when i had all the turbo stuff on, it ran around 210 on the freeway. i moved the fmic off to the side (opposite side of the radiator) and now it runs at 180 again even when im boosting. im also in the process of molding an air duct for the radiator. moving the fmic made a big difference even though it doesnt look that cool.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

invtec...it doesn't go below 65F much here, even during the winter. It was in the 60's for like an hour today, then shot right up to 80's.

So you see, temp has a major factor on the situation.

I have thought about getting a shorter intercooler so some air would flow past it but damn...it looks so good the way it is. I have also contemplated a hood vent, but my car is so stock looking, this vent would be a dead giveaway.

I wish we all could come up with a better solution.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now i'm using 5w40 and will be using 15w50 or 20w50 during summer. i have ebay full size radiator w/ 2 12" fans. for oil cooling i just have stock oil cooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why did you decide on those viscosities?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonvo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car ran at 180 on the freeway when it was na, then when i had all the turbo stuff on, it ran around 210 on the freeway. i moved the fmic off to the side (opposite side of the radiator) and now it runs at 180 again even when im boosting. im also in the process of molding an air duct for the radiator. moving the fmic made a big difference even though it doesnt look that cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too bad my intercooler is way to big to move over at all.

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why did you decide on those viscosities?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly, at this point i forgot most of the facts i used to determine these vicsosities.. i've been doing that for 4 years and only recently started to use oil temp so i'll be able to monitor everything better and understand if these really fit my application. i do remember that my oil pressure would drop (hwy driving) while running 5w30 or 5w40 during summer so going to 15w50 or 20w50 helped match oil pressure readings i would get during winter time.

i don't think you can overdo by using thicker of oil as it multi-visc. oil and proper visc. for time of year. its obvios that turbo cars will run more heat, a 10 degree difference can turn 15w50 into 5w40. i don't want to take chances.. why i upgraded on many things, from more vents on the engine, to higher cfm vans, to larger injectors, fuel pump.. why skimp on the oil..

1158

Water temp stays right on 180 unless I'm sitting in traffic for a wihle, then it goes up to 195 and holds there. My oil temp goes to 220 and stays there. I have AC with stock rad. My manifold/turbine housing/downpipe are coated.

Hybrid Don

Generally speaking water temp should be colder than your oil temperature. You want cooler coolant to prevent detonation and oil to be at proper operating temperature to provide the protection it was designed to give.

Coating the manifold and downpipe is an excellent way to lower under hood temps and radiant heat that can affect the radiators cooling properties.

Adding an external air-toair oil cooler can help lower coolant temps by as much as 20 degrees farenheit. This takes a huge strain off of the cooling system that was never designed to deal with triple horsepower figures. Any time you make more horsepower you are adding more heat to the engine and it is important to have a cooling system that can handle the additional heat load otherwise you run the risk of overheating, cooking the oil etc.

I would run an air to air cooler and build a small shroud to divert as much air past your radiator as possible.

Coolant temps should normally be around 185-190 and oil temps around 200-210 farenheit.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

honestly, at this point i forgot most of the facts i used to determine these vicsosities.. i've been doing that for 4 years and only recently started to use oil temp so i'll be able to monitor everything better and understand if these really fit my application. i do remember that my oil pressure would drop (hwy driving) while running 5w30 or 5w40 during summer so going to 15w50 or 20w50 helped match oil pressure readings i would get during winter time.

i don't think you can overdo by using thicker of oil as it multi-visc. oil and proper visc. for time of year. its obvios that turbo cars will run more heat, a 10 degree difference can turn 15w50 into 5w40. i don't want to take chances.. why i upgraded on many things, from more vents on the engine, to higher cfm vans, to larger injectors, fuel pump.. why skimp on the oil..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I usually recommend 10w-30 (all year in FL) or during the summer in colder areas because it has less viscosity modifiers.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I usually recommend 10w-30 (all year in FL) or during the summer in colder areas because it has less viscosity modifiers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

burns away too quick in summertime. Really almost anytime if its mobil 1.

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I usually recommend 10w-30 (all year in FL) or during the summer in colder areas because it has less viscosity modifiers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

as longa as oil temps don't rise high enough where 10w30 turns into 5w20 or worse, then all good.

auto makers in US recommend thin and engergy concerving oils but only to improve fuel economy and emmisions and to meet EPA requirements. why lately many passenger vehicles switched to 20 weight. oil has to have at least 3.5 HTHS in order to be ACEA certified, most of 30 weights would be under 3.5HTHS.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

burns away too quick in summertime. Really almost anytime if its mobil 1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're burning alot 10w-30 in a Honda then something is not right. Mine only burns a little little bit and it's due to the looser tolerance on the piston-cylinder wall clearance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

as longa as oil temps don't rise high enough where 10w30 turns into 5w20 or worse, then all good.

auto makers in US recommend thin and engergy concerving oils but only to improve fuel economy and emmisions and to meet EPA requirements. why lately many passenger vehicles switched to 20 weight. oil has to have at least 3.5 HTHS in order to be ACEA certified, most of 30 weights would be under 3.5HTHS. </TD></TR></TABLE>

10w-30 has less viscosity modifiers though. This is forced induction forums, we're not really worried about emmisions and fuel economy are we?

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

blown turbo.....just sent it out today.

Just personally I do not like it, it burns away too quick. Maybe my motor just runs hotter than yours, maybe my tolerances are looser. either way, its really thin oil.

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're burning alot 10w-30 in a Honda then something is not right. Mine only burns a little little bit and it's due to the looser tolerance on the piston-cylinder wall clearance.

10w-30 has less viscosity modifiers though. This is forced induction forums, we're not really worried about emmisions and fuel economy are we?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i suppose not.. but thats not what i was trying to point out. most of 10w30 are energy concerving, so main benefit is fuel economy, hp and emmisions and not a whole lot for longetivity and protection at really high temps. do you know how hot your motor runs and if 10w30 really doing the job protecting all these parts. its all guessing unless you know your actual temperatures.

deciding on which oil to use based on VI doesn't tell you everything about the oil. besides, in some cases wider range oils could have less modifiers than shorter range.. say 5w30 vs 10w30, all depends on the brand and how its made. most important part to me is HTHS, thats the way they test all these oils and i simply go for the highest one i can find.

and the reason you're burning oil is probably not due to clearances unless you experience loss at all times then it could be normal. but.. if you experience loss under hard driving conditoins, it may indeed be due to oil not being thick enough (thats where you need to konw your oil temps)