just making sure i did this right, is it on a ok slope? thanks

 

yep looks perfect

 

yep, looks extremely similar to mine

 

cool. thanks should i seal it up with some gray silicone? JB weld?

 

looks like its at a good angle ? yes

looks like it will hold ? probbly not. itll rip out the sheet metal soon enough.

 

do your self a favor and weld a steel bung on to it and then run a fitting... i would not fell safe driving a car with that fitting

 

yea i'm assuming that you have another means of attachment in the works, its not just threaded in there???

 

JB Weld it.

 

well i had the idea of putting some loctite on the threads and then a nut on the inside of the pan...bad idea?

 

I would only trust a welded fitting to the oil pan. Not saying this wouldn't work, but I just like the extra assurance.

 

JB weld FTW

 

it need to be welded
you cant tap into the oil pan. the metal is too thin

 

would it work with some kind of nut on the other side?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had the idea of putting some loctite on the threads and then a nut on the inside of the pan...bad idea? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't want any sort of nut on the inside of the pan... anything can happen and if the nut should somehow come off you could be in trouble.. this is really something you don't wana have to deal with in the first place..

just weld a bung onto the pan and you won't have to think about it again

like phil said the thin sheetmetal on the pan won't hold the threads for long

 

what you have pictured will leak a lot.

 

I did the same thing. I tapped my pan and threaded it on and put honda bond on the outside of the pan around it. Never had a leak at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had the idea of putting some loctite on the threads and then a nut on the inside of the pan...bad idea? </TD></TR></TABLE>

this doesn't sound too leak-proof

JB weld x543

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90dxhmt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JB weld FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>
load that bitch up! I'd put some on the threads when you screw it in, then a little more around the inside and ouside of it

o and btw, sick looking setup. looks very similar to mine...

 

weld it, just go to princess auto and pick up a -10 bung and bring the pan to an exhaust shop and thell weld it for expletive all for you, then just get a -10 45deg fitting on your hose.

 

also the way it looks your going to possibly have teflon tape in your oil pan, could cause problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigbadboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep looks perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

it needs to be welded.

 

I drilled my pan, put the fitting through w/a nut on the back side to hold it in place.

Then I used jbweld and smoothed it over the fitting .

[edit] I should add you need to sand the paint off to the bear metal, and use something like brake clean to get the oil residue off..so the weld has something to bond too....

[/edit]

I put another coat on it, been on there for 3+yrs.

Don't forget to remove the nut once it hardnes.

No leaks, no fuss.

 

when i did mine the first time, trying to be cheap and all, i went to home depot and got a 90degree brass fitting, and put it in the pan and jb welded it inside the pan and out. before i put the pan back on, im lie WTF am i doin, this is the shittiest job. so instead took off the fitting and the jb weld, went and got a steel bung and welded it on. i REEEEEALLLY think you should take off the barb fitting and get an AN fitting. you can cap it off instead of taking off your pan if you need to take your turbo off for any reason.

 

Does the JB weld method hold up good?

I think thats the route im going