whagkangmakulet

I recently added an Autometer Oil Gauge (100psi range) It was working great for 3 days ..then it suddenly stop working!! I didn't have enough time to take my cluster off again..but i check my connection on the sender unit and everything is intact! could a pressures more than 100psi mess everything up? any advice before i take my cluste off ( i have my gauge on the dashboard panel..very hard to take off) pls help!!!!

rtype11

dude check your engine oil, my friend had the compression fitting on his gage break and after a week his motor was dry but his interior was soaked with oil.

98ITR#0020

definately try to find time to take the cluster off, or you could end up with a serious mess, or worse...

whagkangmakulet

I EMAILED AUTOMETER!!! they suggested to test the sender unit (electronic gauge version) with an ohmmeter... they said i could have damage it by over pressure or sort of vibration issue!!! i'll test it tonight!! i'll let you guys know!!!! at what PSI are your meter range to?

DirtyLude

How is the sender connected? Remember that the sender needs to be grounded so if it's connected using a hose (even a steel braided one) it may not be grounded and may not work. I had this problem putting one in a friends car using steel braided line. I had to attach a ground wire to the sender itself.

98ITR#0020

I have the mechanical one, but it reads around 20psi at idle

whagkangmakulet

it was working for three days though... i have a T connected on my block...But i'll check it out..thanks... under boost what is the maximum psi reading do you guys have?

SiRkid

T connected to block=bad!! http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

wwcivic

Has anyone here tried to hook up the T like T.O.O says? I did and guess what ... it sucked ... oil pressure light came on if rpm's dropped below 900. So I put the T on the block, problem solved. It sounded like a good idea at first, but just gave me additional problems. Besides, I doubt that nylon tubing would have held up anyway.

turbod97ex

Yeah, I looked into this setup too. The supercharger, that ENDYN uses, creates more vibration than the turbo setups, and, the supercharger doesn't get cooled by the engine oil as in most turbo'd applications. If you do go the route that is on TOO, make sure you make the strain releif hose, which on their site is 1/8", at least double in size to 1/4" or even more.

whagkangmakulet

OK GOT MY OIL PIPING TODAY... I'LL put them on today!!! I bought a steel braided version. I think it's a good idea of the endyne! Thanks for the link...it's better than 'T' that's my opinion? 1. it will hit my oil filter(long version of oil filter. 2. it's better to the sender unit, autometer said that vibration could cause the sender to break(i have the motor mount insert.. vibrating is problem). what do you guys use anyway? same setup? I believe that not getting enough pressure on the turbo is not a concern ..due to psi requirement is only 30-40 psi on the turbo. and it's about 75-100 under boost. thanks for the help guys!!!!


[Modified by whagkangmakulet, 9:00 PM 10/11/2001]

SiRkid

why?
I did it this way and everythign is FINE and DANDY!
my motor is stock though.
i have pics somewhere.

Doodoo

I did mine the TOO way with steel braided. I have not had a problem yet. Its almost been a year. I have a pic some where, I think I used 1' of line to make sure it had enough slack.

b18b98

just imagine there's a T fitting at the end.




[Modified by b18b98, 5:40 PM 10/11/2001]

turbod97ex

[QUOTE]just imagine there's a T fitting at the end.


That is NOT what is on TOO. That setup is AWESOME. No measly 1/8" nylon tubing.
BTW, the amount of pressure that the line will hold needs is important, but the VOLUME that the line will carry is equally as important.

SiRkid

steel braided is what i looked for....COULD NOT GET IT ANYWHERE...well a plumbing store had it but it was never open on the weekends so I used Brake LINE!
working great so far.