is this possible to do? meaning can you slap an oil cooler on an ls block and still run the sandwhich plate for the vtec head? im going turbo and wanted some sort of an oil cooler. but i didnt know if i should run an external unit or run an oem off of a type r/gsr on my ls block

 

Oem oil cooler is not needed. Just another thing to fail and plumb.

 

y not

 

I would like to hear an answer to this.

 

I am running an gsr/itr oil cooler on my lsv turbo setup, i ran an adapter off the 1/8 npt hole on the back of the block where the oil pressure switch goes and ran my oil line there for my head

 

I had used ITR oil cooler w/ my ls/v setup and works well.

 

can any one please be kind enough to post up some pictures of how it looks installed/how the plumbing was routed for the coolant lines please?

 

The short answer is 'YES'. You can run a oem oil cooler on a LS with a sandwich plate. The fitting in the back of the block just unscrews. The cleanest and easiest plumbing is to use a GSR waterpipe. However, its a waste of time imo. I've never seen a difference in oil temp on engine w/ or w/o coolers, at least the oem ones. Why go to all the trouble? I suppose you want to install oil squirters too. I can show you how to do that as well in a LS, but its also not needed.

 

no no, too muck work is needed for gsr/type r squirters. been there read that ****. when you say there is really no difference, are you stating this fact with a backing statement that the setup you are leaning towards is oem cooled or aftermarket cooled? there are many points of view that can be argued in your statement, and i plan to figure out which EXACT statement you are backing so it will help me determine what i should do with my setup. your responses are a tad bit of confusing while reading them. please point me to the correct way so i can understand your "logic"

any other SOLID input is also appreciated. criticizing or not.

 

i can post pics tomorrow..since im gonna install mine tomorrow lol

 

I had a VX cooler I got for $10, and was repairing a hydrolocked teg I got, so I figured why not. It doesn't fit perfectly, but it work just fine. Make sure you torque it to the right lb/ft setting! Also make sure you blast it out good if it was sitting - I have 3 and all of them ended having bearing-destroying gunk in them.

I ran it off the main coolant neck on the head, the fitting facing backwards. It's the line that runs to the FITV and IACV, so it fit fine. It's more of a DD, so I actually want it for getting oil up to temp faster to help gas milage.


For the GSR/ITR/B16 cooler, the GSR waterneck is the best idea for cooling. Tap the water jacket like Honda did so you use relatively cool coolant. If I ever raced, I'd get a 12v pump and trans cooler, and have a self-contained system. No oil pressure loss, and if it breaks, I'm just back to uncooled oil. No blown up motor.

 

so would you reccomend to run an external unit?

 

If you're looking for a noticeable difference in oil cooling...run an external cooler like a setrab.

 

wht is this you speak of?

 

Google Setrab Oil Cooler. You'd need the radiator looking oil cooler, some AN fittings, braided hose, and a sandwich plate. A lot more plumbing but a way more efficient way to cool the oil.

 

see this is what i was originally wanting to do. but i had no idea where to draw the oil supply from, and where to feed it to. i had thoughts of running a line from the sandwhich plate to an oil cooler, then to the turbo feed line. or somewhere else in the midst of the setup.

something along the lines of this

 

Run a feed and return from the sandwich plate to the cooler. Place it up front so it gets as much fresh air as possible. Then run the turbo feed line from another source like you normally would. Hopefully the cooler is efficient enough to drop the temps enough across the board to be able to feed the turbo cooler oil.

 

wouldnt it be more logical just to run a feed from the sandwhich plate and return it back to the oil pan? or do you think back into the sandwhich plate would cool faster?

 

To be honest, I'm not sure. I've just seen them run from and back to the plate. Maybe it's a pressure thing.

 

possibly. i wish some more of the gear heads would chime in. old lazy asses lol!

 

Are you road racing or something? Our car makes crazy power and runs 8's. It has no cooler and doesn't get hot. Most big power guys don't run oil coolers (on hondas) for one reason; it doesn't need one. I might see the need if you were road racing, but I don't have any experience with that.

 

I've only seen them on road race cars. LoL. I don't have enough experience with drag cars.

 

why not do it? especially in texas when it gets really hot. not to mention the constant bumper to bumper, stop n go traffic

 

im really interested in oil cooler setups for hot days, long trips, autox etc.

 

I have been having some major cooling issues this past summer on my H22 Turbo Civic Coupe setup. I had a triple core aluminum rad with a flex-alite fan, then I upgraded to a T1 Koyo racing rad with the T1 Custom shroud and SPAL fan combo, and the cooling issue still exists, I am running a Garrett GT3076R liquid cooled and oil cooled turbo. I tried wrapping my manifold and downpipe to cut back on the heatsoak, I don't have a turbine blanket as I am not sure if I can get one to fit due to the extreme tight fit in my engine bay. Normal driving around town not going into boost, my ECT range from 89-98 degrees C depending on the outside temps, but once I go into Boost a few times, and I am running 17lbs, the ECT's range from 95-102 Degrees, then drop down to normal in a few min, and my oil temps range from 200-210 degrees F normal cruising to 220-240F after hitting boost a few times, so I was also considering a Setrab external oil cooler as one of the Tech guys at Skunk2 told me that after he installed his Setrab oil cooler on his Integra Turbo setup, his ECT's drops a full 10degrees in total! So basically he said that the major heatsoak from the turbo system, etc, was having a major effect on his ECT's and Oil temps, so by using the Setrab one, he helped to solve the problem. My car made 373HP and 360TQ at 17lbs on a Dyno Dynamics dyno here a month ago, but we basically had to stop cause of the engine temps reaching 102+temps during the pulls and on the last pull , my head lifted and breached my headgasket so I gotta replace that over the winter, and it wasn't from detonation cause i was running 100 Octane fuel, and after the tuning session, I drove the car around normally and everything was fine, went into boost a few times and it was fine, but only noticed the coolant overflow...overflowing after I had gone into full boost a few times when I was testing it out....