Thanks every one for all of the infomation that you gave me now all i have to do is find a place to put it......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9vboi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would using copper be a bad idea? I mean doess STEEL have something in it that attacts the vapors into it? if so, I'm willing to throw out my copper for some steel or even them poof poofs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it is magical...

No seriously, it's just something for the oil to condense onto. Vapour condenses onto cool surfaces, so by providing a media, you effectively provide a HUGE surface area. You could do the same thing with baffles or what not but stuffing it full of something is cheap and empty cans are easy to make.

Stainless steel wool = I've never seen that before.

Speaking of which, I guess the cooler the 'can the better the condensation rate.

 

So I have a question about the Endyn setup. Is there any reason why the back of the block is a better ventilation outlet than the valve cover? I know the valve cover vent is very small, but if you had another bung up there, would you be able to get the same effect without tapping the block?

The reason I ask is because I've read a lot of posts where people get oil running all the way up to the can when they run the lines from the back of the block.

 

If there's a clear passage from the crankcase to the valvecover, then there's really very little difference in the effectiveness of either. As it is, crankcase pressure has to travel through the oiling passages upwards into the valvecover to be vented if you don't use the back of the block. So yeah, you could increase the effectiveness of a valvecover-vent-only system using extra taps into the valvecover, but it's probably a bit more effective to go straight to the source.

Anyone else?

 

Correct me if im wrong:"

Valvecover you could simply just put a tube to the ground.. (not legal, but will work fine correct)

The PCV, (back of the block, needs to be ran to a catch can that is baffled, than back into the intake manifold?

From a performance aspect...and no law matters....
Couldnt I just run a tube from ethe PCV just to the ground? and check my oil more reguarly?

 

The way I run mine;
I disconnected the hose from the factory black separator box to the pcv valve. Plugged the pcv valve vaccum, then run that hose from the black box to a 2 port catch can. I also leave the valve cover to vent to atmosphere.
No oil in my intake manifold and very little oil gets collected in the can.

 

Here's mine, running from the valve cover to the intake of the turbo.



Cost me all of $2.

 

^^^ is that a fuel filter of some sort?

 

Yes its a Fram fuel filter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swags04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct me if im wrong:"
The PCV, (back of the block, needs to be ran to a catch can that is baffled, than back into the intake manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swags04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From a performance aspect...and no law matters....
Couldnt I just run a tube from ethe PCV just to the ground? and check my oil more reguarly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Not sure why you'd want to check your oil more frequently though. Most catchcans don't have a drainback feature anyway; mine doesn't.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smooth-GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes its a Fram fuel filter </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know quite a few people online use fuel filters and pneumatic filters, but in my experience it's not a good idea. Most of the fuel filters are too restrictive, and the pneumatic filters that I've used (2 different kinds-4 total), all leaked and/or cracked. If you want to go the cheap route, try one or two of these:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/nc...r=361

I've seen them at Pep Boys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kleefton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The way I run mine;
I disconnected the hose from the factory black separator box to the pcv valve. Plugged the pcv valve vaccum, then run that hose from the black box to a 2 port catch can. I also leave the valve cover to vent to atmosphere.
No oil in my intake manifold and very little oil gets collected in the can. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So with your 2 port can, do you run one port to a tube that just goes to the ground?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep. Not sure why you'd want to check your oil more frequently though. Most catchcans don't have a drainback feature anyway; mine doesn't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

same here, anything your catchcan catches would have been put into the cumbustion chamber anyway. Thats why we get catchcans, so it wouldn't do that. A catchcan installed on a car would not need any more maintainance in regards to oil level than a totally stock car from the factory.

 

the way i ran my greddy catch can dont know if it is right or worng? please correct me if i have this catch can hooked up worong..
I hooked it up to the compressor housing of the turbo with a tee.. where the vacum supply for the wastegate would be.. so the pvc valve is always under vacum ... even under full boost...

 

That's the right place Use a slashcut tube for the connection though or it will reduce the vacuum in the tube.

 

how do u guys stuff the baffled materials in the catch tank,if i am not wrong the oil catch tank normally came in empty without any thing inside right? so if i didnt stuff any thing in then it wouldnt work that well right? If i stuff the materials in through the intake port or the exit port ,how am i surpose to take it out if it needs to be changed?

 

im using a fuel line to connect the vacum to the can to the turbo and back to the pvc.. valve..

 

how does a poof poof looks like any pics i am planning to get one

 

help pls how is a puff puff looks like?

 

From what I've understand, you want to hook up a line from the PVC valve to the oil catch can and then the other port from the catch can to the intake arm going to the turbo.

I dont think you want to hook up the line off the compressor side fo the turbo to the oil catch can to the PVC. I can see you messing up your PVC valve and also negates the entire setup in the first place because under boost the PVC is always closed!

Here is a nice site that will detail which way vapors are flowing in your engine. I think there are some misconception as to what the lil breather on your valvecover is for. It actually brings air into the engine rather than push air or vapors out.

http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo...l#PCV

I hope this helps. I am in the process of learning about catch can too so please dont knock...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the way i ran my greddy catch can dont know if it is right or worng? please correct me if i have this catch can hooked up worong..
I hooked it up to the compressor housing of the turbo with a tee.. where the vacum supply for the wastegate would be.. so the pvc valve is always under vacum ... even under full boost... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Drag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a nice site that will detail which way vapors are flowing in your engine. I think there are some misconception as to what the lil breather on your valvecover is for. It actually brings air into the engine rather than push air or vapors out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It actually flows both directions; it draws air into the crankcase under light throttle because the PCV is wide open and the vacuum from the intake manifold reaches the valvecover through the oiling passages. Under WOT the crankcase pressure is much higher and the PCV is pretty much closed, so pressure evacuates through the valvecover.

poofpoof: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/th....html get it at a dollar store tho...


Modified by raene at 1:03 AM 8/15/2004

 

i dont have an intake arm i just have a fitting on the turbo.. ... you are saying that under boost that fitting on the turbo is under boost on the compressor side. ?

Dont mind the OIL IN ? .. this is the brass fitting i connected my wastegate and catch can to..


PVC valve to pipe to can / pipe from can to the brass fitting on the turbo???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PVC valve to pipe to can / pipe from can to the brass fitting on the turbo??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

NO! Absolutely NOT! That port is after the compressor wheel, and gets
presureized under boost. That will cause extremely bad results. You will actually
be pressurizing the crankcase.

 

holleee ****.... no wonder the dip stick flew out of the motor on the dyno... dam it.... Time for a leak down test to see if i damged anything... ****..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holleee ****.... no wonder the dip stick flew out of the motor on the dyno... dam it.... Time for a leak down test to see if i damged anything... ****..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAMM DUDE Thats sucks. I cant belive no one saw that at the dyno
Please make sure you get an answer next time before you go doing stupid **** like that. That port should go to the WG!