nos + b16
don't have the funds to go fi yet but i was thinkin about a nos set up. anybody have a b16 wit nos? what are ur times? what shot are u runnin? ay other mods? just wondering if it was worth the money or if i should wait a few months and get fi. all inputs appreciated, thanks.
i have been thinking about doing this recently as well...i found a cheap zex 50-75 shot dry with purge....i posted here and asked. basically everyone said as long as i keep it around a 50-65 shot ill be fine. i think im going to do 55 shot and i really dont plan to use it a lot at all. if you dont abuse it then you should be fine. but i would like to get more info as well. so bump...
i bought a zex kit but found that i really couldnt afford to run it at the time, so i sold it,
basicly first thing you need is a better clutch, so add 300$ to your budget before you even install it,
2nd thing is b&m fpr, and gauge (60-80 bucks)
3rd a/f gauge w/ an extra o2 sensor to get an accurate reading
4 2 step colder ngk plugs
5th this is up to you but its a saftey factor, and that would be an msd rpm activated window switch. basicly it prevents you from spraying in between shifting, and from spraying after the rev limit should you misshift.
other than that extra money to keep the bottle filled.
i wish i could of kept mine but i needed the money to fix some gremlins.
basicly first thing you need is a better clutch, so add 300$ to your budget before you even install it,
2nd thing is b&m fpr, and gauge (60-80 bucks)
3rd a/f gauge w/ an extra o2 sensor to get an accurate reading
4 2 step colder ngk plugs
5th this is up to you but its a saftey factor, and that would be an msd rpm activated window switch. basicly it prevents you from spraying in between shifting, and from spraying after the rev limit should you misshift.
other than that extra money to keep the bottle filled.
i wish i could of kept mine but i needed the money to fix some gremlins.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bought a zex kit but found that i really couldnt afford to run it at the time, so i sold it,
basicly first thing you need is a better clutch, so add 300$ to your budget before you even install it,
2nd thing is b&m fpr, and gauge (60-80 bucks)
3rd a/f gauge w/ an extra o2 sensor to get an accurate reading
4 2 step colder ngk plugs
5th this is up to you but its a saftey factor, and that would be an msd rpm activated window switch. basicly it prevents you from spraying in between shifting, and from spraying after the rev limit should you misshift.
other than that extra money to keep the bottle filled.
i wish i could of kept mine but i needed the money to fix some gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget the fuel pump ($90-$120).
The a/f guages are inaccurate. If you really want to be safe you would want a wideband O2 setup, which is very expensive. You don't really need either, just get on a dyno and make sure it is tuned properly with something to adjust air/fuel curve.
basicly first thing you need is a better clutch, so add 300$ to your budget before you even install it,
2nd thing is b&m fpr, and gauge (60-80 bucks)
3rd a/f gauge w/ an extra o2 sensor to get an accurate reading
4 2 step colder ngk plugs
5th this is up to you but its a saftey factor, and that would be an msd rpm activated window switch. basicly it prevents you from spraying in between shifting, and from spraying after the rev limit should you misshift.
other than that extra money to keep the bottle filled.
i wish i could of kept mine but i needed the money to fix some gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget the fuel pump ($90-$120).
The a/f guages are inaccurate. If you really want to be safe you would want a wideband O2 setup, which is very expensive. You don't really need either, just get on a dyno and make sure it is tuned properly with something to adjust air/fuel curve.
Two buddies ran a NOS dry kit on theirs for a year, 14.5 for one and 14.6 for the other. Keep in mind that is at Atlanta dragway on street tyres and IHE. 60hp kits.
Go with the NOS drykit for simplicity and cost. All you need is the kit, colder plugs, and of course the clutch. The kits maxes out fuel pressure when on the bottle so no need for all that other stuff. Retard the timing 3 degrees or more if you want to be safe. And the window switch is a good idea if you miss shift.
Go with the NOS drykit for simplicity and cost. All you need is the kit, colder plugs, and of course the clutch. The kits maxes out fuel pressure when on the bottle so no need for all that other stuff. Retard the timing 3 degrees or more if you want to be safe. And the window switch is a good idea if you miss shift.
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We had a CRX with a BONE STOCK B16A motor (just I/H/E and some Electromotive TEC2
) and on some small *** 20x6 slicks it went 12.6 @ 110 MPH. this was with a 75 shot Dry NOS setup. I was pretty impresse with the times myself.
) and on some small *** 20x6 slicks it went 12.6 @ 110 MPH. this was with a 75 shot Dry NOS setup. I was pretty impresse with the times myself.
if i were putting a set up together i would go with:
n20 wet kit($500)
heater and purge($200)
clutch($300)
fpss and window switch($200)
gauge inside the cabin($100 with line and pod)
screw the fpr. maybe a fuel pump if you wanna run a 75 shot or more.
the wet kit is way more adjustable, and will be easier to work with(imo) when you do go turbo or sc.
n20 wet kit($500)
heater and purge($200)
clutch($300)
fpss and window switch($200)
gauge inside the cabin($100 with line and pod)
screw the fpr. maybe a fuel pump if you wanna run a 75 shot or more.
the wet kit is way more adjustable, and will be easier to work with(imo) when you do go turbo or sc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaD1521 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't have the funds to go fi yet but i was thinkin about a nos set up. anybody have a b16 wit nos? what are ur times? what shot are u runnin? ay other mods? just wondering if it was worth the money or if i should wait a few months and get fi. all inputs appreciated, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For starts Nitrous is FI. Just a different form. If i were you I would wait the few months. I had Zex for years and the reson I stopped is becuase I tried to add how much I spent on the refills and it added up way more than what my turbo kit may have cost. I could have had a fully built engine almost with as much Nitrous i went through, but it's your call. The game of patients or Instant gratification.
For starts Nitrous is FI. Just a different form. If i were you I would wait the few months. I had Zex for years and the reson I stopped is becuase I tried to add how much I spent on the refills and it added up way more than what my turbo kit may have cost. I could have had a fully built engine almost with as much Nitrous i went through, but it's your call. The game of patients or Instant gratification.
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hoffmanb16
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Mar 11, 2009 12:01 PM



