Aphelion

Thank you all for your help thus far with my new car! This board has been a lifesaver. I know that newbs come here all day asking about nitrous, turbos, and the rest without searching, being serious, or even having a clue. This is not one of those posts! If you can help me with some advice, I would really appreciate it!

My end goal is to have a 75 shot of nitrous in my car, to have a little fun with. I recently drove a friend's car, and had a blast with his nitrous system.

I want to obtain this goal on a budget of $3500. I'm not limited to that, but that's my monetary goal - I will have money set aside for engine repairs and things of that nature. My car is a 94 Si hatch (D16z6) with 100k miles on it. Should I

a) bulletproof the engine, and install a nitrous system
or
b) pickup a b16a or b18b off hmotors and install a nitrous system

I have a friend who will do the work for me fairly cheaply, so I'm looking at about 1/2 the cost that a shop would charge me, on labor. With my budget in mind, do you think A or B is more reasonable? I'm not wanting to turbo it, run 13s, or anything unrealistic; I'm just wanting to have some good nitrous fun :D

civictildeath

well since you dont want to run 13's or go turbo then i would say option A.
i assume by bulletproof you mean like pistons and rods and such

ABK

just spray I know a old beatdown z6 that has been in three cars and has been sprayed on with 75 wet shot, and still runs good. Supposably compression is still good.

Just spray it, if you blow it buy another one for $200, or just swap with something better.

Hapexamendios EJ8

im willing to beat your friend didnt "bullet proof" his motor..

Aphelion2

Arg, I had to create another account to reply, because I'm only allowed 5 msgs in a 24 hour period.

Hey CTD, thanks for the help again tonight Yeah, I meant rods, pistons, and sleeves. ABK, do you think I should have my compression tested first? I know that Honda engines take a beating a just keep going, so I'm tempted to go with your idea. I'd hate to blow something while I'm running it hard though.. I guess I could install the nitrous system, and then if that seems like enough fun, I'll go ahead and bulletproof it. If it's not enough, I can just keep from using the nitrous too much, and then switch it over to a b16 eventually.

Aphelion2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hapexamendios EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im willing to beat your friend didnt "bullet proof" his motor..</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I don't think he did. But he has less than 50k miles I'm sure.

B18C1 '96 Coupe

Jsut take the head off insert a block guaurd. Run 75 direct port. run some more fuel via Walbro Bigger fuel rail , and get a VAFC/SAFC. That should do it. blow it up start over those blocks are seriously less than 200 bones

Soccerking3000

age has nothing to do with a motor, you could have a motor that was ragged on horribly and is **** at 20k miles.

Aphelion2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1 ’96 Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jsut take the head off insert a block guaurd. Run 75 direct port. run some more fuel via Walbro Bigger fuel rail , and get a VAFC/SAFC. That should do it. blow it up start over those blocks are seriously less than 200 bones</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard block guards are useless, if you tune your engine correctly. Also, would I need more fuel if I'm running a wet system?

I was planning on getting a fuel pressure safety switch and window switch - is there anything else I need?

Spade

if you run anything more than a well tuned 60 shot on a d16, you'll break a rod.

I suggest, if you have the money to build the engine then do so, good rods and pistons will more than likely net you the ability to run a 100 shot.

jerbear!

build the block and spray all day, option A.

Aphelion2

Thanks for all the input guys! I have one more question - Which brand? I know I want to go with a wet kit, and buy a fpss and window switch, but I'm in the dark on which brand performs the best. I have tried searching these boards quite a bit, and no one really discusses it much.

B16aDasher

IMO i would run a small direct port shot, like 35 or 50, on my stock engine. Just so you can get comfortable with nitrous. And at the same time, built up another block to swap in.

Oh and i like NX

ABK

you don't need to get vafc to tune for wet kit. you might starve for fuel with a stock fuel pump and 75hp shot (but tha guy didn't, I would upgrade it though). Seriously if I had a car with a d series in there that's exactly what I would of been doing. If I blow it up, I will go with a big smile to my local shop and get a new engine and tranny for $200 (I'm fucken dead serious too, done it before).

00Red_SiR

If you reduce your nitrous shot to a 60 hp shot you won't have to build or do anything to that engine and you can bank the money. Don't worry about the fuel pump etc because the stock pump is more than capable of handling the fuel requirements unless it's crapping out. If you have a fuel pressure safety switch installed it'll prevent your nitrous from spraying anyway so no worries about the pump. Wet systems only use some of the fuel supply and fuel injected cars only use a portion of the fuel that's pumped into the rail, the rest gets diverted back to the tank. So in this sense a wet system doesn't put a strain on the stock fuel system like a dry system would. A dry system adds fuel through the injectors by increasing the fuel pressure significantly while the nitrous is running. If the pump is weak at all it won't be able to handle it and a lean condition can occur if a fuel pressure safety switch isn't used.

I would look at the NX (Nitrous Express) or Zex wet kits, they are 2 of the best on the market for performance, quality and ease of installation.

Slopoke

^^^I totally agree.
I ran an LS motor with an 80 shot on a stock fuel pump, in a civic cx, for 2 years without a problem.

Soccerking3000

i dont think zex makes a direct port system,i would say go with NOS or NX, zex is best for beginners who want nitrous

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think zex makes a direct port system,i would say go with NOS or NX, zex is best for beginners who want nitrous</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct, they don't make a direct port system, but he doesn't exactly need one either.

Aphelion

Thanks again for all the help guys. I guess I'm going to wait until someone wants to sell one on the classified forums - or am I better off just buying one new?

ABK

I would wait because you can get a full kit with upgrades for way less then it cost for you to buy a new one without no upgrades.

Aphelion

Thanks! :D Now if this trial user bs would just go away o_O

white4doorsi

Spray the hell out of it and blow it up. Then take the blown motor out and swap in a ls vtec and spray that. theres your 3500 spent wisely.

Aphelion

Thanks for the advice, I hope I can do it for that much :D

Some mod moved this to the FI forum. I wasn't aware nitrous was forced induction, oh well

MooreBoost

I thought about building my motor and spraying like a 150 shot on it, then I remember that would last about two seconds on a 10lb bottle and I would be out 40 bucks.

If I were you, I would put a 75 shot on your stock d-series, and run it till it blows up.

Spade

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooreBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were you, I would put a 75 shot on your stock d-series, and run it till it blows up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It'd only take about 2 days.